Feb 13, 2015, 01:41 PM
Last edit by: IB Advertising
Everything Breakout! Find out everything you need to know! Some topics include:
• Customizing you bike
• Seats
• Risers
• And much more!
For more information check out these threads:More Threads
• Customizing you bike
• Seats
• Risers
• And much more!
For more information check out these threads:More Threads
The Everything Breakout Thread
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 5,497
Likes: 648
From: Sulphur La.
Which would be better, Fuel Moto '107' kit,,,, or ,,,, Harley's Screaming Eagle 110 Stage 5 Tire shredder. Both have same H/P, But Fuel moto's is half the price. I'm guessing you are purchasing the jugs, and the heads (stage 5). Not having them bore out.
Last edited by EricRay; Apr 22, 2016 at 02:04 PM.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 3,185
Likes: 189
From: 90210
107 kit any day of the week. before you go buying parts you need to think this through a bit- in order to make horsepower you need air and most importantly, fuel. if your bike is a 2016 then you should be fine with the 50mm tb and 4.3 injectors on a 107 kit. although 4.9 injectors would be preferable if you want to get into 120hp/130tq territory. if you have a 2015 or earlier then a TB and injector upgrade is a must to break 100hp with adequate feuling.
However, once you start pushing over 110hp / 115tq you need to address the weak stock crankshaft. that thing will scissor on you eventually. it is only pinned together, it is not uncommon for it to shift or completely scissor under the heavier torque loads.
Good luck!
However, once you start pushing over 110hp / 115tq you need to address the weak stock crankshaft. that thing will scissor on you eventually. it is only pinned together, it is not uncommon for it to shift or completely scissor under the heavier torque loads.
Good luck!
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 2,710
Likes: 529
From: Lethbridge, Alberta Canada
Jim G
Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 133
Likes: 3
From: Coquitlam B.C.
i've used about that much on mine, but i've already scraped the primary cover. I don't see the issue with the stock tire, i've not had any issues with it sliding or slipping on me, and even when I try to get it spinning, it'll spin and still try to throw me off the back of the bike, and hook up solid about 10 feet later...
the only difference I can see in these tires to make a massive difference would be height. I know you guys are doing a 260 over a 240, that on it's own can't change the characteristics that much, can it?
obviously compound and tread will be different... the other thing I should mention is i'm in canada, and our roads are much different than the roads in the USA. we have VERY few concrete streets. mostly they are asphalt topped, which of course is much softer and has a high content of tar, which makes them, especially newly paved roads, actually sticky in the sun, so tires grip exceptionally well
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 6,174
Likes: 1,960
From: Great State of Canada
ok, maybe i'm a little lost on this tire thing. I understand the suspension upgrade, but how different are these tires that you are able to use that much of the tire without scraping?
i've used about that much on mine, but i've already scraped the primary cover. I don't see the issue with the stock tire, i've not had any issues with it sliding or slipping on me, and even when I try to get it spinning, it'll spin and still try to throw me off the back of the bike, and hook up solid about 10 feet later...
the only difference I can see in these tires to make a massive difference would be height. I know you guys are doing a 260 over a 240, that on it's own can't change the characteristics that much, can it?
obviously compound and tread will be different... the other thing I should mention is i'm in canada, and our roads are much different than the roads in the USA. we have VERY few concrete streets. mostly they are asphalt topped, which of course is much softer and has a high content of tar, which makes them, especially newly paved roads, actually sticky in the sun, so tires grip exceptionally well
i've used about that much on mine, but i've already scraped the primary cover. I don't see the issue with the stock tire, i've not had any issues with it sliding or slipping on me, and even when I try to get it spinning, it'll spin and still try to throw me off the back of the bike, and hook up solid about 10 feet later...
the only difference I can see in these tires to make a massive difference would be height. I know you guys are doing a 260 over a 240, that on it's own can't change the characteristics that much, can it?
obviously compound and tread will be different... the other thing I should mention is i'm in canada, and our roads are much different than the roads in the USA. we have VERY few concrete streets. mostly they are asphalt topped, which of course is much softer and has a high content of tar, which makes them, especially newly paved roads, actually sticky in the sun, so tires grip exceptionally well
Its difficult to get a handle on these Forum tire recommendations, I know. They seem subjective and are difficult to rationalize. All I did was switch to a Dunlop E3 250 because they were so much cheaper than a Dealer OEM tire and were wider (cool). The "felt" handling improvement of, even the E3, over the OEM tire is very obvious. I can't explain why but from both personal experience and also what, like you, I'm reading it seems that "anything but OEM" is an improvement.
You're facing a "suck it and see" situation right now but if you do try that Metzeler, or the E3 by Dunlop like me, I'll be flabbergasted if you're not impressed with the improvement.
My Dealer wants over 400 bux with tax, plus installation, for the 240. Canada's Motorcycle Store is peddling the E3 250 for $205 and the Metzeler 260 for $245. Where's the downside ?
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 5,649
Likes: 430
From: MASS_hole
You'll never touch the pavement with that, but depending on the radius of the contact patch hight, some are easier to arrive at that so called "chicken strip" edge and the others not!
Generally a taller radius is much more difficult to arrive at the edge, but will allow for more lean into a turn before you run out of rubber. These type tyre shapes are more common on touring tyres. Where as tires that are designed with a flatter, less pointy spae have a much higher speed rating (aggressive) and are much more suited for race purpose. Even if they are not full blown race compounds. Usually radial tires, and though they will run out of contact sooner, they offer a much more predictable input as for when you've used all of that usable surface area, as apposed to the pointier shaped contact surface.
With neither of which amounting to diddly if rubber compound is crappy. But that wasn't your question.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 7,492
Likes: 103
From: Stuttgart, Germany
ok, maybe i'm a little lost on this tire thing. I understand the suspension upgrade, but how different are these tires that you are able to use that much of the tire without scraping?
i've used about that much on mine, but i've already scraped the primary cover. I don't see the issue with the stock tire, i've not had any issues with it sliding or slipping on me, and even when I try to get it spinning, it'll spin and still try to throw me off the back of the bike, and hook up solid about 10 feet later...
the only difference I can see in these tires to make a massive difference would be height. I know you guys are doing a 260 over a 240, that on it's own can't change the characteristics that much, can it?
obviously compound and tread will be different... the other thing I should mention is i'm in canada, and our roads are much different than the roads in the USA. we have VERY few concrete streets. mostly they are asphalt topped, which of course is much softer and has a high content of tar, which makes them, especially newly paved roads, actually sticky in the sun, so tires grip exceptionally well
i've used about that much on mine, but i've already scraped the primary cover. I don't see the issue with the stock tire, i've not had any issues with it sliding or slipping on me, and even when I try to get it spinning, it'll spin and still try to throw me off the back of the bike, and hook up solid about 10 feet later...
the only difference I can see in these tires to make a massive difference would be height. I know you guys are doing a 260 over a 240, that on it's own can't change the characteristics that much, can it?
obviously compound and tread will be different... the other thing I should mention is i'm in canada, and our roads are much different than the roads in the USA. we have VERY few concrete streets. mostly they are asphalt topped, which of course is much softer and has a high content of tar, which makes them, especially newly paved roads, actually sticky in the sun, so tires grip exceptionally well
The fact that you scraped you primary was, if I remember correctly, in a sharp slow turn pulling into a lot or gas station and hitting a slight bump in the pavement, right? I've done the same thing, too, but that had nothing to do with tire etc.. It was just a very unlucky coincidence...
If you are constantly scraping in turns, especially faster turns or curves this may have several reasons...
1st thing I did was to take off the stock pegs (with the feelers) as they have an offset to the bottom. I replaced them with straight pegs. I usually put my foot on the peg with the middle part and not the heel. That causes my heel to be the lowest point and as such the first thing to touch the asphalt. If I need to lean a bit more I slightly lift the heel and do it. If I still need to lean more... I AM TOO FAST!!! This will probably make my peg scrape next but it's then at the latest that I learned my lesson for the next time....as I just damaged a $100 item.
So I don't intend to tell you how you should ride but in case you already replaced those unfavorable stock pegs for straight ones and you're still constantly scraping them then it might be time to revise your riding style
Eagleray. Got the pictures. Not sure how you got such high quality pics, but it is greatly appreciated. You guys are way way over my head on on these upgrades you are doing, I would never attempt anything like that. But it is fun reading about it. Cool stuff, well done! I feel like I need to upgrade my membership.....
Link -> http://www.hotbike.com.au/?product_c...ender-fix-kits
Have also attached a picture.
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Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 7,492
Likes: 103
From: Stuttgart, Germany
Guys, I am not a fan of the stock license plate mount and the side mount (vertical) is illegal in my state. So I have been hunting around for options and found this. Crazy expensive (~$700) but looks very nice. Please take a look, have you seen this? Has this or options like this been discussed yet? Maybe someone can explain why this is so freaking expensive.... I am assuming they want to stay in business and people pay this high price for a reason. Thanks in advance.
Link -> http://www.hotbike.com.au/?product_c...ender-fix-kits
Have also attached a picture.
Link -> http://www.hotbike.com.au/?product_c...ender-fix-kits
Have also attached a picture.
Just sum up: custom license place holder w/ LED lighting + LED tail light + LED turn signals
Not a bargain but not a fortune either....
Last edited by EagleRay; Apr 24, 2016 at 12:10 PM.
Nope didn't notice that. I believe Australian $$ to US $$ is 0.77 so that means a little over $500 for the setup. Guess you do not think it is too far out of line for what you are getting. Got to admit I have never seen anything like this, really sharp on the stock fender (in my opinion). Thanks for the quick reply.