Which would be better, Fuel Moto '107' kit,,,, or ,,,, Harley's Screaming Eagle 110 Stage 5 Tire shredder. Both have same H/P, But Fuel moto's is half the price. I'm guessing you are purchasing the jugs, and the heads (stage 5). Not having them bore out.

 

107 kit any day of the week. before you go buying parts you need to think this through a bit- in order to make horsepower you need air and most importantly, fuel. if your bike is a 2016 then you should be fine with the 50mm tb and 4.3 injectors on a 107 kit. although 4.9 injectors would be preferable if you want to get into 120hp/130tq territory. if you have a 2015 or earlier then a TB and injector upgrade is a must to break 100hp with adequate feuling.

However, once you start pushing over 110hp / 115tq you need to address the weak stock crankshaft. that thing will scissor on you eventually. it is only pinned together, it is not uncommon for it to shift or completely scissor under the heavier torque loads.

Good luck!

 

You are correct that with the HD kit, you are getting new cylinders and heads versus modifying your existing ones. That means the old ones are potentially saleable to recover at least some money.

Jim G

 

ok, maybe i'm a little lost on this tire thing. I understand the suspension upgrade, but how different are these tires that you are able to use that much of the tire without scraping?

i've used about that much on mine, but i've already scraped the primary cover. I don't see the issue with the stock tire, i've not had any issues with it sliding or slipping on me, and even when I try to get it spinning, it'll spin and still try to throw me off the back of the bike, and hook up solid about 10 feet later...

the only difference I can see in these tires to make a massive difference would be height. I know you guys are doing a 260 over a 240, that on it's own can't change the characteristics that much, can it?

obviously compound and tread will be different... the other thing I should mention is i'm in canada, and our roads are much different than the roads in the USA. we have VERY few concrete streets. mostly they are asphalt topped, which of course is much softer and has a high content of tar, which makes them, especially newly paved roads, actually sticky in the sun, so tires grip exceptionally well

 

Hi Weezl.

Its difficult to get a handle on these Forum tire recommendations, I know. They seem subjective and are difficult to rationalize. All I did was switch to a Dunlop E3 250 because they were so much cheaper than a Dealer OEM tire and were wider (cool). The "felt" handling improvement of, even the E3, over the OEM tire is very obvious. I can't explain why but from both personal experience and also what, like you, I'm reading it seems that "anything but OEM" is an improvement.

You're facing a "suck it and see" situation right now but if you do try that Metzeler, or the E3 by Dunlop like me, I'll be flabbergasted if you're not impressed with the improvement.

My Dealer wants over 400 bux with tax, plus installation, for the 240. Canada's Motorcycle Store is peddling the E3 250 for $205 and the Metzeler 260 for $245. Where's the downside ?

 

all to do with tire profile and width. Not side wall.
You'll never touch the pavement with that, but depending on the radius of the contact patch hight, some are easier to arrive at that so called "chicken strip" edge and the others not!
Generally a taller radius is much more difficult to arrive at the edge, but will allow for more lean into a turn before you run out of rubber. These type tyre shapes are more common on touring tyres. Where as tires that are designed with a flatter, less pointy spae have a much higher speed rating (aggressive) and are much more suited for race purpose. Even if they are not full blown race compounds. Usually radial tires, and though they will run out of contact sooner, they offer a much more predictable input as for when you've used all of that usable surface area, as apposed to the pointier shaped contact surface.
With neither of which amounting to diddly if rubber compound is crappy. But that wasn't your question.

 

I didn't want to suggest that it would be possible to lean the bike any further with that tire than it was with the stocker. If that's what came across I'm sorry, my bad. The "w/o scraping" was rather meant as a side note...

The fact that you scraped you primary was, if I remember correctly, in a sharp slow turn pulling into a lot or gas station and hitting a slight bump in the pavement, right? I've done the same thing, too, but that had nothing to do with tire etc.. It was just a very unlucky coincidence...

If you are constantly scraping in turns, especially faster turns or curves this may have several reasons...

1st thing I did was to take off the stock pegs (with the feelers) as they have an offset to the bottom. I replaced them with straight pegs. I usually put my foot on the peg with the middle part and not the heel. That causes my heel to be the lowest point and as such the first thing to touch the asphalt. If I need to lean a bit more I slightly lift the heel and do it. If I still need to lean more... I AM TOO FAST!!! This will probably make my peg scrape next but it's then at the latest that I learned my lesson for the next time....as I just damaged a $100 item.

So I don't intend to tell you how you should ride but in case you already replaced those unfavorable stock pegs for straight ones and you're still constantly scraping them then it might be time to revise your riding style

 

Guys, I am not a fan of the stock license plate mount and the side mount (vertical) is illegal in my state. So I have been hunting around for options and found this. Crazy expensive (~$700) but looks very nice. Please take a look, have you seen this? Has this or options like this been discussed yet? Maybe someone can explain why this is so freaking expensive.... I am assuming they want to stay in business and people pay this high price for a reason. Thanks in advance.

Link -> http://www.hotbike.com.au/?product_c...ender-fix-kits

Have also attached a picture.

 

Did u notice they are Downunder? The price stated is AU$

Just sum up: custom license place holder w/ LED lighting + LED tail light + LED turn signals

Not a bargain but not a fortune either....

 

Nope didn't notice that. I believe Australian $$ to US $$ is 0.77 so that means a little over $500 for the setup. Guess you do not think it is too far out of line for what you are getting. Got to admit I have never seen anything like this, really sharp on the stock fender (in my opinion). Thanks for the quick reply.