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The Everything Breakout Thread
And I agree the overall price is a bit over the top. But hey, if you like it...
Its difficult to get a handle on these Forum tire recommendations, I know. They seem subjective and are difficult to rationalize. All I did was switch to a Dunlop E3 250 because they were so much cheaper than a Dealer OEM tire and were wider (cool). The "felt" handling improvement of, even the E3, over the OEM tire is very obvious. I can't explain why but from both personal experience and also what, like you, I'm reading it seems that "anything but OEM" is an improvement.
You're facing a "suck it and see" situation right now but if you do try that Metzeler, or the E3 by Dunlop like me, I'll be flabbergasted if you're not impressed with the improvement.
My Dealer wants over 400 bux with tax, plus installation, for the 240. Canada's Motorcycle Store is peddling the E3 250 for $205 and the Metzeler 260 for $245. Where's the downside ?

You'll never touch the pavement with that, but depending on the radius of the contact patch hight, some are easier to arrive at that so called "chicken strip" edge and the others not!
Generally a taller radius is much more difficult to arrive at the edge, but will allow for more lean into a turn before you run out of rubber. These type tyre shapes are more common on touring tyres. Where as tires that are designed with a flatter, less pointy spae have a much higher speed rating (aggressive) and are much more suited for race purpose. Even if they are not full blown race compounds. Usually radial tires, and though they will run out of contact sooner, they offer a much more predictable input as for when you've used all of that usable surface area, as apposed to the pointier shaped contact surface.
With neither of which amounting to diddly if rubber compound is crappy. But that wasn't your question.
The fact that you scraped you primary was, if I remember correctly, in a sharp slow turn pulling into a lot or gas station and hitting a slight bump in the pavement, right? I've done the same thing, too, but that had nothing to do with tire etc.. It was just a very unlucky coincidence...
If you are constantly scraping in turns, especially faster turns or curves this may have several reasons...
1st thing I did was to take off the stock pegs (with the feelers) as they have an offset to the bottom. I replaced them with straight pegs. I usually put my foot on the peg with the middle part and not the heel. That causes my heel to be the lowest point and as such the first thing to touch the asphalt. If I need to lean a bit more I slightly lift the heel and do it. If I still need to lean more... I AM TOO FAST!!! This will probably make my peg scrape next but it's then at the latest that I learned my lesson for the next time....as I just damaged a $100 item.
So I don't intend to tell you how you should ride but in case you already replaced those unfavorable stock pegs for straight ones and you're still constantly scraping them then it might be time to revise your riding style

As for the stock pegs, they are ugly, but I actually like the feelers. I sit my foot on the peg the same as you, and scrape boot before feeler, but I do like having the feeler there anyways, just so I know, "hard stuff is coming up REAL soon" when cornering...
I did read that you were able to corner harder, but no biggie there.
Link -> http://www.hotbike.com.au/?product_c...ender-fix-kits
Have also attached a picture.
to fix, do your front forks with the racetech springs and ricor or racetech dampers. done deal.
Aftermarket tires will be a big improvement over the stock clunkers. They will just do everything better. The stock rear tire has a very flat face profile versus good aftermarket tires with proper radius. The stock front tire is like a mushroom. Besides you will not find any tire mfr that recommends a 130/60/21 tire for a front 3.5" rim... it is just plain wrong. 120/70 is correct. I threw my tires away with only about 1k miles on them with no regrets. There are very good offerings from Metzeler, Dunlop and Pirelli and they are superior + cost less than the stock tires. If the stock tires were actually decent you would not hear about so many riders tossing them and the good results post-upgrade. good luck!

Granted the OP is concerned about tickets for a vertical license plate. it's the same issue here in Cali and many other states. but you know it has to be a pretty bored *** cop to pull you over only for that here in the US. Not very likely. And how many license plate fix-it tickets would it take to equal $500 to a grand?? I'll pay that ticket, thanks
Last edited by ChickinOnaChain; Apr 28, 2016 at 07:16 PM.

Granted the OP is concerned about tickets for a vertical license plate. it's the same issue here in Cali and many other states. but you know it has to be a pretty bored *** cop to pull you over only for that here in the US. Not very likely. And how many license plate fix-it tickets would it take to equal $500 to a grand?? I'll pay that ticket, thanks

-> That is a really good point!! Need to reconsider
I would like to have more of a stretched out look without adversely affecting my handling. Besides the extra ground clearance might help keep my peg feelers off the pavement...
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
to fix, do your front forks with the racetech springs and ricor or racetech dampers. done deal.
Aftermarket tires will be a big improvement over the stock clunkers. They will just do everything better. The stock rear tire has a very flat face profile versus good aftermarket tires with proper radius. The stock front tire is like a mushroom. Besides you will not find any tire mfr that recommends a 130/60/21 tire for a front 3.5" rim... it is just plain wrong. 120/70 is correct. I threw my tires away with only about 1k miles on them with no regrets. There are very good offerings from Metzeler, Dunlop and Pirelli and they are superior + cost less than the stock tires. If the stock tires were actually decent you would not hear about so many riders tossing them and the good results post-upgrade. good luck!

Granted the OP is concerned about tickets for a vertical license plate. it's the same issue here in Cali and many other states. but you know it has to be a pretty bored *** cop to pull you over only for that here in the US. Not very likely. And how many license plate fix-it tickets would it take to equal $500 to a grand?? I'll pay that ticket, thanks

second is a box 3 (best case imo.) written a ticket, but given the opportunity to fix it and the ticket gets ripped up.
box 2, vehicle requires an inspection at a government certified facility, within 60 days. anything not meeting government criteria must be fixed before passing. this includes any pipes that are louder than stock, moved or aftermarket non-dot signals, brake lights, oil leaks, ect. plus the plate ticket, repairs, and $150 for the inspection.
worst case scenario, box 1. this is typically only used for rolling scrap heaps, but i have seen one given for worn out door bushings. same as box 2, except no 60 days. vehicle gets impounded, towed in, towed out, towed to a shop for the inspection. impound rates are $30 per day, plus tow, starting at about $100. so, box 1: $176 ticket, $150 inspection, MIN $100 tow in, likely 2 days storage to arrange an inspection, $60, tow to shop (tow out starts at $60, $90 for bikes) repairs at shop $?? thats $586, minimum, before you pay for the shop to do work that you could do on your own just fine
that being said, i have been pulled over for a vertical plate, and rode away with just a $176 ticket
a friend of mine got pulled over with a fender eliminator kit on his ninja, everything else stock, got a box 2, and was out about $600 when it was all said and done
Last edited by weezl; Apr 25, 2016 at 04:00 PM.
that being said, i have been pulled over for a vertical plate, and rode away with just a $176 ticket
a friend of mine got pulled over with a fender eliminator kit on his ninja, everything else stock, got a box 2, and was out about $600 when it was all said and done
Thanks guys for the comments.








