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^^ I'm grateful to Jim for the thread piece he did on the Pirelli's- And I was a Pirelli hater - still am as far as automotive tires go. but the bike tires are five stars- and indeed light weight but strong. well worth more than their smaller price tag.
I have not noticed any quicker wear yet and I'm pretty heavy on the throttle. I know Jim now prefers the Avon up front but I have found no complaints with the Pirelli front. turns in easy and holds lines excellent. does not wander on freeway grooves. these tires are miles above the stockers.
Also another discovered benefit, the tires were perfectly balanced to begin with. I am running no wheel weights front or rear and had the mounted tires / wheels put on a road force balancer at the dealer. the PM wheels are already balanced by design. that is pretty cool. only downside, no 260 rear if you want to go wider.
Getting complaints from my wife while out riding that the OEM "Turn/Brake Signals" are not bright enough. Installed this Custom Dynamics piece. Much better now.
there are two methods but the "on center jack stand" is the easiest DIY method. leave bike level on jack rear wheel off ground. adjust belt tension per the service manual for the center stand method, and then, adjust the wheel alignment. re-check the belt tension. when you are done adjusting everything then lower jack enough so wheel touches pavement and tighten axle nut a bit. lower bike enough so it feels solid on ground and torque the axle bolt to final spec
Dawg. Trust you to death, but did your brain fart, or have I no heard it all yet?
Always thought this adjustment was to be done with all weight on jiffy?
Originally Posted by LA_Dog
^^ I guess other countries are going to have differing requirements. That's pretty funny considering the stock Breakout tires are the real "liability issue" - lol. Glendale dealer here in Cali had no problem with installing my Pirelli tires. I took wheels off my bike and brought them down, it was like $50 total ($25 per wheel). they are one of the only places that has a true touchless tire changer which is what I needed for the PM wheels.
Three hours labor to R/R front and rear wheels, change both tires seems about right in booked time- overall cost depends on the dealership hourly labor rate and if they give you a 'good customer' deal or not.
LA_Dog= beat the system
Most techs or indies actually appreciate having YOU prep things up as much as possible. Any decent minded service related tradesmen would rather move work and avoid bullshit detail like, "why didn't you take the saddle bags off before you brought the bike?"
Last edited by ChickinOnaChain; May 8, 2016 at 06:50 PM.
Getting complaints from my wife while out riding that the OEM "Turn/Brake Signals" are not bright enough. Installed this Custom Dynamics piece. Much better now.
I have that ordered.. did you have trouble installing it? what color wires did you splice? I'm assuming you tapped into the connector wires under the seat.
you're using running plus brake light only correct? I also plan to install a back off module in between. this will flash the center LED brake light a few times before stopping. had that on my last bike.. definitely recommend it to everyone.
Dawg. Trust you to death, but did your brain fart, or have I no heard it all yet?
Always thought this adjustment was to be done with all weight on jiffy?
I do have those on occasion but not this time
The 2013 softail service manual outlines two methods, each with different tension specs. one is on a center jack / no weight on wheel, the other is on the jiffy stand. I find the center jack method to be the easiest, most precise and best for one person DIY.
these two methods are in most of the HD service manuals as far as I know. here's a snap from section 1.12 of the 2013 service manual:
Originally Posted by drpete
LA
Did you lower the backend on your bike?
Welcome drpete - Yes, it is dropped 1.25" using Progressive 422 shocks.
Last edited by ChickinOnaChain; May 8, 2016 at 06:43 PM.
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