Originally Posted by JimGnitecki

I just installed Custom Dynamics LEDs front (with the white ring & flashing amber) and rear (3-way red: running, brake, signals), plus clear lenses front and rear, and learned a couple of things that might help others:

- The Custom Dynamics website is so dense as to make it hard to figure out where to even look to get the correct part numbers for our Breakouts, but I handled that by having my local HD dealer do the work of ordering the correct parts. The price for Custom Dynamics stuff is identical wherever you order it,so why take a chance on screwing up and ordering the wrong part numbers?

- The installation is pretty simple if you read the darn instructions instead of forging ahead confidently . But, there are some tips that are NOT incldued in either the Custom Dynamics instructions or the HD service manual (see below)

- The open "slots" on both the stock lenses and the new Custom Dynamics lenses has TWO purposes: Yes, one is the enable you to insert a screwdriver blade to pop the lenses off easily, but the primary purpose is to vent the light (against fogging) and let rain or wash water OUT of the light body! So, make sure the slot on each light is on the BOTTOM edge, and nowhere else . Interestingly, my stock lenses came NOT properly installed, with the front ones being especially bad - the slots were facing straight out sideways. My bike has never seen rain, but if it had, I imagine my light innards would be corroded pretty badly now after 2 years

- There are MULTIPLE "slots' in the bulb socket into which the light bulb base of the LED can be inserted. Only one set is correct! First, notice that the bulb base of the LEDs has two STAGGERED pins - both are 180 degrees apart on the base, but one pin is closer to the end of the base than the other one is! You need to ensure that you insert the bulb base into the socket using the correct slots to engage both of the pins. Any other orientation won't engage and lock the pins, and the lED either won't light up or will light up briefly but fall out of contact during your first bumpy ride. You have the correct slot and correct orientation when the bulb base inserts easily and then EASILY turns maybe 30 degrees or so to lock the pins into the L-shaped slots in the socket. If it seems hard do NOT force it - you have the wrong slots or wrong orientation

- Once the LED bubl base is correctly installed, rotate the LED disc counterclockwise to (a) wrap the wiring behind the disc so it won't get caught in the lens and (b) wrap counterclockwise so that the residual tension on the wiring will exert a clockwise force on the bulb base, helping ensure it does not vibrate out.

- Still holding the LED disc (so the wiring does not unwrap), "clock" the lens in your hand so that the water-releasing slot is on the bottom, and insert the lens and gently push and snap into place

- The instructions say to run the 4-way hazard lights for a few minutes (my dealer said up to 5 minutes might be required). This enables the ECM to "learn" the presence and loading of the LEDs and correct the flashing rate to the right rate. However, My 2014 Breakout flashed the 4-ways correctly immediately. I still left the 4-ways on for 5 minutes just to make sure that the flashing rate did not later reduce, but it remained where it started, at a rate that seems correct, and is totally in sync with the dashboard flasher lamps. I am thinking that the "learn" procedure might not actually be required on "later" bikes as HD probably altered the bike's coding to recognize LEDs immediately, as a running, versus model year, change.

- The LEDs are VERY bright!! (Great for getting the attention of texting cagers)

- The "ring" configuration on the front is particularly nice. When in normal running light mode, the entire LED array on each front light is lighted up "white". But, when a turn signal is activated, the signaling front lamp turns the central flashing portions of the LED array orange while outer ring on the signaling lamp, and the entire non-signaling lamp, remains white. This REALLY makes it obvious that a turn signal is flashing!

- I used clear lenses versus smoked, as the smoked necessarily "dims" the light coming from the LEDs a bit, and I want FULL attainable brightness for safety

- The clear lens with the LED array behind them look GREAT whether the lights are on or off - much nicer than the stock orange looked.

Sorry, no photos, as it is spitting rain today - all day - and I try to keep the bike from seeing rain (2 years so far . . . I did the work inside the enclosed trailer ).

Jim G

Originally Posted by Drodrigueznyc

nice ride man. i've been running mine hard since I got her two weeks ago. seems to run stronger each day. From a performance standpoint I've only done the exhaust and FP3. cosmetically i've done the turn signals and rear brake lights. not much more. see pics.

enjoy your ride, and keep us posted on mods.

Originally Posted by Duke 13

That's one pretty ride. You mentioned you didn't have the $$$ for a new exhaust. I may have a set of V&H Chrome 2-2 available soon. I'm in the process of reworking another exhaust system. If interested, let me know.

Originally Posted by JimGnitecki

For those wondering how a D&D Low Cat exhaust sounds on a Breakout with the 2014 version of the Stage 4 Race kit (which then included the 259 cam), here is my attempt to upload a video of it onto Youtube:




he video starts at the front of the bike, moves down the righthand side, and then stays at the rear near the exhaust outlet. You'll hear idle and then some throttle snapping.

Be sure to run your volume HIGH to get the full effect of the throttle snaps near the end of the video.

Jim G