Feb 13, 2015, 01:41 PM
Last edit by: IB Advertising
Everything Breakout! Find out everything you need to know! Some topics include:
• Customizing you bike
• Seats
• Risers
• And much more!
For more information check out these threads:More Threads
• Customizing you bike
• Seats
• Risers
• And much more!
For more information check out these threads:More Threads
The Everything Breakout Thread
unless you found a used set off a wrecked vrod or for sale on ebay im sure they would want mucho $$$ for that mediocre inverted fork...best bet would check out kraus for one of his ohlins kits where you could use your stock wheel and brake set up...in the neighborhood of $3800 but far superior than vrod set up....on my dyna build im using a ohlins superbike fork that came off a wrecked ducati panigale..but im using the brembo/bst/rotors set up that was already on it...no reason to change front wheel due to it being a 17 like stock dyna size...now just need to buy rear wheel that is $1800
Advanced
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 53
Likes: 3
From: Arlington, TX
Recently I finally got my stage one (v&h super radius, heavy breather, se pro super tuner, all on my 15 FXSB. ) however even though I love the look, new power, and sound I'm getting a decel pop. I typically get this around the 3000 rpm range when I let off the gas in any gear.
This is something that caught me off guard as all the other breakouts I see around I'm not hearing pop, nor do I hear any talk about this. I was under the impression that I was going to get a perfectly "tuned" bike with no issues. Isn't that what I payed for?
Now before everyone says "do a search there's plenty of threads on this topic"... I have. And, I've heard many mixed answeres. I'm just hoping someone here especially the couple of you running similar setups would have a more definitive answer.
Should I have them re-tune my bike or should I accustom myself to the sound of my almost brand new bike sounding like some old jolopy? Or should I just start riding around like an old man to avoid these pops?
Any info will be greatly appreciated.
This is something that caught me off guard as all the other breakouts I see around I'm not hearing pop, nor do I hear any talk about this. I was under the impression that I was going to get a perfectly "tuned" bike with no issues. Isn't that what I payed for?
Now before everyone says "do a search there's plenty of threads on this topic"... I have. And, I've heard many mixed answeres. I'm just hoping someone here especially the couple of you running similar setups would have a more definitive answer.
Should I have them re-tune my bike or should I accustom myself to the sound of my almost brand new bike sounding like some old jolopy? Or should I just start riding around like an old man to avoid these pops?
Any info will be greatly appreciated.
Tourer
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 476
Likes: 90
From: Westchester, NY
agreed. because you have the SE pro tuner you have the ability to tweak that map. I'm not sure if the SE Pro has an auto tune feature like the V&H FP3 that I have. when i swapped exhaust and stuff I had decel pop but running auto tune on the current map via FP3 fixed that. it's just a matter of playing with the different maps. if you are not comfortable doing so, then yes, you'll need to take it back to HD for another map adjustment. (which I do not recommend simply because it costs more money and there's no guarantee they will eliminate the popping)
you're better off doing it yourself. it's a fine tuning process that take time and patience but well worth the effort. good luck!
you're better off doing it yourself. it's a fine tuning process that take time and patience but well worth the effort. good luck!
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,925
Likes: 948
From: Texas
Here is what I have learned about the "learn" mode:
When new & different electrical equipment replaces existing (e.g. LED running lights/signals), it is necessary to put the bike into "learn" mode for that the ECM can 'learn" about the new equipment and somehow "adapt" to it.
The learn mode is apparently activated on our Breakouts by turning the ignition switch to ignition position, and then activating the 4-way flashers. Here is where it gets interesting. Some technicians say that you must use the "ignition on" position for the ignition switch, others say it is sufficient to go to the "accessory" position. And, as far as how long the 40way flashers need to be on, some technicians say "15 seconds" and others say "sometimes up to 5 minutes".
Here's a further challenge:
When you install LEDs, it is easy to do this learn mode - you turn on the ignition, turn on the 4-way flashers, and by doing so, you are automatically "using" the LEDs, and so the ECM can see and react to the lighter current load of the LEDs versus stock lamps.
But for the horn, with the ignition "on" and the 4-way flashers on, you can hold the horn button "on" continuously for a long period of time. But, with the engine not running, you are not reproducing the conditions accurately under which you experience a problem (i.e. with ignition on, AND engine running, hoprn only blows a handful of times before becoming disabled).
But, if you turn on ignition, and engine, and 4-way flashers, and then press the horn button, the horn may, I am guessing, stop working after a short period of time, as it has been doing for you, BEFORE the ECM has sufficient time to "learn" the new horn. I might be wrong though. This MAY be why you now get 6 honks versus 2 to 4 honks - the ECM has "partially" learned? IF you repeat the learning, will the ECM "learn more" and eventually not cut out the horn at all??
Aren't these modern electronics an intriguing mystery?
Jim G
When new & different electrical equipment replaces existing (e.g. LED running lights/signals), it is necessary to put the bike into "learn" mode for that the ECM can 'learn" about the new equipment and somehow "adapt" to it.
The learn mode is apparently activated on our Breakouts by turning the ignition switch to ignition position, and then activating the 4-way flashers. Here is where it gets interesting. Some technicians say that you must use the "ignition on" position for the ignition switch, others say it is sufficient to go to the "accessory" position. And, as far as how long the 40way flashers need to be on, some technicians say "15 seconds" and others say "sometimes up to 5 minutes".
Here's a further challenge:
When you install LEDs, it is easy to do this learn mode - you turn on the ignition, turn on the 4-way flashers, and by doing so, you are automatically "using" the LEDs, and so the ECM can see and react to the lighter current load of the LEDs versus stock lamps.
But for the horn, with the ignition "on" and the 4-way flashers on, you can hold the horn button "on" continuously for a long period of time. But, with the engine not running, you are not reproducing the conditions accurately under which you experience a problem (i.e. with ignition on, AND engine running, hoprn only blows a handful of times before becoming disabled).
But, if you turn on ignition, and engine, and 4-way flashers, and then press the horn button, the horn may, I am guessing, stop working after a short period of time, as it has been doing for you, BEFORE the ECM has sufficient time to "learn" the new horn. I might be wrong though. This MAY be why you now get 6 honks versus 2 to 4 honks - the ECM has "partially" learned? IF you repeat the learning, will the ECM "learn more" and eventually not cut out the horn at all??
Aren't these modern electronics an intriguing mystery?
Jim G
Novice
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: New Orleans, LA
I'm sure one of the more knowledgable members here can give an analysis on the performance differences.
Novice
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: New Orleans, LA
which actually brings me to a techie question for the guru's of engineering...
I really love the look of the big brake front rotor from ness for the breakout--- but i have a '14 which has ABS and i believe it doesn't function properly with the big rotor kit... is there a mod or way to work around this without sacrificing my ABS?
kind of a deal killer as i have learned to appreciate the abs
I really love the look of the big brake front rotor from ness for the breakout--- but i have a '14 which has ABS and i believe it doesn't function properly with the big rotor kit... is there a mod or way to work around this without sacrificing my ABS?
kind of a deal killer as i have learned to appreciate the abs
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Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 7,492
Likes: 103
From: Stuttgart, Germany
which actually brings me to a techie question for the guru's of engineering...
I really love the look of the big brake front rotor from ness for the breakout--- but i have a '14 which has ABS and i believe it doesn't function properly with the big rotor kit... is there a mod or way to work around this without sacrificing my ABS?
kind of a deal killer as i have learned to appreciate the abs
I really love the look of the big brake front rotor from ness for the breakout--- but i have a '14 which has ABS and i believe it doesn't function properly with the big rotor kit... is there a mod or way to work around this without sacrificing my ABS?
kind of a deal killer as i have learned to appreciate the abs
