I like the shape of the mirror, would mind share a link of where to get it? thanks.

 

if you were referring to mine, i found them on ebay.

 

Looking for a Chrome or Polished 70 Tooth rear pully to suit the breakout want something that is close to the Turbine wheel style

Or if someone knows a part number that would also be appreciated

 

Ultima makes this one in a 65 and 70 tooth version, and either 1” or 1-1/8” wide. Not sure of the part number off the top of my head, but just search Ultima King Spoke pulley and you should find it. Should be able to get a brand new one for $150 or less. You will probably also need a 1/4” or 3/8” spacer to get it to line up right.

Also be aware that if all you are doing is adding a 70 tooth pulley and nothing else, you will probably run into issues with your tire rubbing the inner fender. The diameter of the 70 tooth combined with the factory belt moves the wheel too far forward and the tire rubs. You would either need a longer belt, or a smaller front pulley for it to work correctly. Replacing the front pulley is much more labor-intensive than replacing the rear, but still doable.

 

yep if doing a 70t rear, really need to also do the 30t front. depending on year, some BOs won't have enough belt adjustment to fit a 70t by itself. besides, who *doesn't* want 13% more torque to the rear wheel with 30/70? considering cost of doing both pulleys, IMO it's cheap for what you get back in performance. plus, any future upgrades such as cams, motorwork etc will benefit from the optimized drive ratio. to me, this is a core foundation upgrade.

good tip on the ultima rear pulleys- not a bad price. when sourcing new wheel bolts make sure they are long enough to go 1" - 1.25" into the wheel. absolutely required for proper bolt torque.

 

Thanks for that guys much appreciated

I did the 30 tooth upgrade several years ago when this all started & was happy with the result

The issue here in Australia we are limited to 110 Kmh these things are just ticking over

I now finally have a little free time to continue playing with the bike so my plan upgrades are to fit the Power Vision & Target tune that I bought about 3 years ago and never got time to fit it

Along with that I am looking at the Heal Tech Quickshifter

now I am in search of the 70 tooth pulley

 

very nice- with the PV + TT you can really do a lot, especially with the improved final drive ratio. Because the BO's (and all modern FXS/FXD) came with such tall ratio from factory, the timing maps in the "off the line" and wider throttle areas (roll-on, WOT) are intentionally de-tuned to prevent lug and knock. since the gear ratio is substantially optimized with 30/70 (or even 30/68), optimizing spark advance timing + enriching AFR will really help to further wake things up.

Unfortunately PV does not have a spark tuning feature- which still is hard to believe- so you need to roll your own. But at least you now have ability to do so. If you PM me your email address I can send you some of my maps to review and play with. VE maps wiill be different for every bike- but AFR tables and timing tables can be used across any bike. in the WinPV software you can open a tune file, open a second "compare" tune file, and copy / paste items out off the compare file's tables into the new one you are creating.

Initial goal of PV is to tune VEs to engine. then afterwards, manually optimize AFR tables and timing tables. The VEs, once tuned with the PV tuning feature, adjust VE cells automatically to acheive the target AFR table values. the TT function actively maintains VE to hit AFR table target values in real time while riding. it's a great system. Just remember that the AFR tables are your "master" table, that VE values always try to achieve. for example if WOT AFR table value is 11, then the corresponding VEs for WOT will always try to achieve 11.

after you get the VEs tuned, and then your AFR tables optimized manually, then move on to optimizing spark tables. I find little to no difference with having different timing map values for front cyl vs rear cyl.

For AFR tables i like using whole number values- the delphi system seems to react much better with whole numbers such as "12", "13" etc instead of "12.2, "13.4" etc. The only place I will run the AFR map leaner is in the economy cruise area of map (3k-4500 rpm, light to mid throttle, typically freeway cruising). outside of those zones i give it plenty of gas. fuel is power.

for examples look at some of the older AFR maps on early EFI HD's - they all ran much richer and very "normal" AFR tables. As HD got squeezed by EPA / CARB, the AFR maps become much leaner to assist with pollution control. it is not necessarily what our TC motors like, and well, this is not a Prius so.... gas it ;-)

 

Joes 2017 Breakout
Hi everyone, my winter project this year will be oil tank removal and chrome plating. Will this be an impossible task or is it best to bring to the dealership? I love working on the bike so would prefer to do it myself.

 

It is easy to do yourself but it takes some time, remove the seat and fuel tank and be sure that all pipes are loose. There are bolts under the seat
and for the tire and remove the tank in a circular motion along the right-hand side.

 

Is that a CVO? If so I thought they came with chrome oil tanks?