I was looking at some footpegs and a bit confused now. How is it with their compatibility on Breakout? In the parts catalogue many are listed as not suitable. Whilst reading this thread (religiously read all 715 pages) I noticed that many people were using the Diamond black pegs and some were using the rear pegs (pn 50911-08A- pegs with 2 thin rubber stripes on each end) in the front, LA DOG was using the front pegs (pn 50500035- pegs with 3 thick rubber stripes) which are listed as suitable for the front, and on one bike I spotted fitted in the front Large diameter pegs (pn 50113-10- 2 thin rubber stripes on each end). It's the bike on the last picture. Can any pegs be used in the front? The only difference I've noticed between front and rear is that front pegs got a bit longer mounting part (it makes them to stick out further) and they've got those removable feelers on the ends. I think all this "not suitability" is a loads of BS from HD and it's all related to the poor leaning point of Breakout.

 

It would be great to have it confirmed that any pegs can be used (one of the options which I like are the Airflows, but they're available only as the rear pegs and to the front shoud go footboards) as the dealer was no help and told me if I order the wrong parts he can't take it back. Many thanks.

 

Hi Guys,
I was wondering if anyone could tell me if is there a difference in gas tank size (size not volume) for the Breakout and the Fat Boy or other Softail models? Also would it be possible to mount any other Softail gas tank on a 2K16 Breakout (FXSB)?
Cheers and thanks in advance.

 

From my own personal experience, I have bought two different pairs of pegs that were not specifically recommended for the front of the Breakout, and both mounted up no problem. First I bought a cheap pair of Chinese pegs off ebay because they matched the grips already installed on the bike. I wanted them for the front, but since they were so cheap I figured I could use them on the rear if they didn't fit the front somehow. They bolted up no problem. Later I decided I wanted something bigger up front to rest my feet on, so I got a set of Kuryakyn pegs and moved the Chinese ones to the passenger position. Again, I don't think the Kuryakyn's were specifically recommended for the front of the bike, but they bolted up fine. I think the mount is the same no matter what, but the front pegs that ARE recommended for the driver position on the Breakout all have the extensions on them so they touch down first in a hard turn, instead of your pipes or primary cover. Just have to be careful when you go with other pegs because the other stuff is much more expensive to replace if you scrape it up.

 

I installed these:




,,, as you point out, many parts and accessories catalogues misidentify compatibility when it comes to BO's. It was worse in the early days. With foot pegs, if you can find good pictures and can see the mount point of the peg you're interested in "looks right" for fitment, it probably is. As insurance, I'd buy from a source which offers no hassle returns just in case.

 

Thanks guys. Can start doing some shopping. It would be so much easier for all parties involved if Harley just made a statement " fits 13-17 Breakout but due to limited leaning angle fitting of these parts is at your own risk". Job done.

 

If you fix your bike's front suspension you'll drag the pegs A LOT less. The BO's front suspension is squishy and soft to say the least.

Fu@k!!! There USED to be a sticky at the top of the Softail room that details how to fix your bike's front susension. Find it. Do it. It works. The author was LA Dog.

 

About the BO's footpegs .... see how the original pegs have that Dog Leg in them? That also contributes to them dragging more easily. They're just plain closer to the ground to begin with, aaaahahaha!

I put a pair of STRAIGHT pegs on my bike. I bought them off the accessory wall at a local H-D dealership. They're just generic H-D pegs. Nothing fancy at all. Just straight pegs with thick rubber.... no biggie swapping either.

 

I did the LA Dog front suspension mod. If you do no other mod to your BO do that one,,, seriously !

I think the reason the MoCo got fancy with the step down pegs with feelers is that they were afraid riders would get on the primary and put the wheels in the air if they didn't have an early warning system of some sort but I'm just guessing.

I've also slugged my forks by 2" and installed a fork brace. Extending the forks isn't necessary and you'll have to install a shoe on the jiffy stand if you do that but the brace is something I'd recommend in any case. The BO's forks do flex but its something you only tend to notice after you remove the flex by installing the brace.

I found the following in my files; It relates to the sticky NSR refers to "I Think". In any case it might make a good starting point for researching the front suspension mod if you're interested.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Front Forks Install



[img]file://localhost/private/var/folders/dj/m49ptlvs5vsgm2cy3pd_9s1w0000gp/T/TemporaryItems/msoclip/0/clip_image002.png[/img]FXSB Breakout Upgrade DIY: Fork Suspension / Tires / Brake -Part numbers, tools, tips

My goal is to provide an easy upgrade path for anyone else looking to improve the handling, ride, braking and traction of the Breakout- Because frankly, there is NOTHING online specifically for the Breakout in regards to improving the overly soft, nose-divey fork suspension. For the fork spring / damper parts I mention below, these vendors do not actually list fitment for FXSB on their websites, but these parts drop right in and work excellent.


**This is not a difficult DIY- Anyone with moderate mechanical skills can do the fork spring and damper upgrade with a motorcycle jack and hand tools in a few hours. Once you know what parts to get and the basic steps, tools involved, it's very straight forward. E.G., if you are completely comfortable with changing your own oil, brake pads, belt, pulling the gas tank, changing bars / controls / risers, pipes / intake, (moderate stuff like that), you can do this yourself.

***For those of you who rely on your local wrench or the dealer for all work, I have provided "tech instructions" you can print and give to your mechanic with short, exact install steps. See post #5 below.

Here is the summary (part numbers are in second post):

Suspension:
>>Race Tech 1.0kg Springs: $129
>>Ricor Intiminator Dampers: $179
>>5w fork oil: $40 (4 16oz bottles, Maximma or Amsoil is good- You'll need 25.6oz of 5w oil per fork tube)
>>Couple hours DIY to install. No drilling of stock dampers or dis-assembly of fork lowers required. You do have to remove the fork tubes from the trees but it's not hard at all. I've listed the socket / tool sizes needed in my second post.


Part numbers, steps, tools needed, etc will be in the second post. Anything I add or change in ref to brakes, suspension, tires I will post in this thread. As a side note, my Breakout is a 2013, non-ABS, non-CVO. ABS and CVO guys this is all still very relevant, you'll benefit just as much. I'm not sure if your front brake caliper will require a different pad part number than the one I have listed below so be sure to double check.




[img]file://localhost/private/var/folders/dj/m49ptlvs5vsgm2cy3pd_9s1w0000gp/T/TemporaryItems/msoclip/0/clip_image004.png[/img]Harley Breakout FXSB Upgrade Front forks with Race Tech Springs & Ricor Intiminators

-----------------------
PARTS and REFERENCES for FXSB Breakout:


Ricor Intiminator Dampers for FXSB Breakout:
Web reference: http://store.ricorshocks.com/product_p/049-20-1001.htm 49 MM Intiminator for HD. Call Brian to place order (888)-425-1333 (don't email), tell him your riding weight and style so he can set the adjustments for you. Mine are set for: [Rider Weight with gear:190lbs], mostly 1-up with occasional 2-up. I chose these since they are 100% "drop in", no drilling of stock dampers required. And yes, they work incredibly well.
You will need 4 16-oz bottles of Amsoil or Maxxima 5w fork oil. Yes, 5w is used with the Ricors. 25.6 OZ per fork tube. Measure up 26 OZ in a container, pour in, you'll end up with 25.6 OZ due to residual remaining in container.

Race Tech 1.0kg performance fork springs for FXSB Breakout:
Web reference: http://racetech.com/ProductSearch/2/...%20Bob/2008-13 Spring series for 06+ FXDB, (fits FXSB) - P/N FRSP S4430100 (RT FRK SPR 43.5x300 1.0kg ). 10% HD Forum Member discount, call to order (951) 279-6655. You can get the FRSP S4430 springs in any weight, such as .90 kg, 1.1 kg etc. - Or, get one .90kg and one 1.0kg and end up with a .95kg set. The 1.0kg springs should be fine for most riders 180lbs (with gear on) to 220lbs.




Install notes, tool sizes:

** Before jacking bike up, crack the wheel axle bolts. Not loose, just enough to get the initial TQ load off of the nut. Much easier and safer.

Front Wheel Removal:

** Crack axle nut loose and caliper bolts before jacking tire off ground.

Remove brake caliper 1st, two bolts, 10mm 12-pt socket.

Loosen and remove axle nut on brake caliper side, then remove bottom cap bolts from left fork bottom. A 5mm hex bit will fit these cap bolts.

After you remove the cap bolts the axle pulls out to left. TIP: Watch out you don't drop and scratch the black wheel spacers on either side of wheel as you pull the axle out.

Unbolt and remove the fender at this point if proceeding with fork tube removal

Front wheel re-installation:
Raise bike so right side (looking at bike from front) slider axle hole is roughly in line with wheel axle hole, as you place the wheel in between the fork sliders.
Place left side black wheel spacer on axle. Slide axle through wheel, through right side wheel spacer, and through right side slider axle hole.
Place axle washer and axle nut onto axle, give it a few threads.
Place left side fork slider cap around left side of axle and thread in the 5mm alan socket bolts. Treat these like handlebar riser clamps- you need to tighten them EVENLY so the gap on front edge and rear edge are even. Don;t tighten them yet, just tighten them enough so it holds the axle in place.
Raise wheel off ground and tighten axle nut firmly, ensuring everything is seated.
lower bike onto tire slightly and TQ the axle nut to 75 ft lbs.
Tighten the two 5mm alans, each one a little at a time to ensure even clamping and even gap, TQ both bolts to spec, 132 inch-lbs
Install brake caliper, thread in bottom bolt and hand snug, insert top bolt and hand snug. TQ bottom bolt to 28 ft-lbs, then same for top bolt.

TQ Values (always TQ to the lower end of the stated values):
Front axle nut (15/16" wrench or socket): 70-75 ft-lbs
Front axle bottom cap bolts (5mm hex bit) TQ: 132-180 inch-lb / 14.9-20.3 Nm
Front brake caliper bolts (10mm 12-pt socket): 28-38 ft-lbs
Front brake caliper brake pad retainer pin (10mm 12-pt socket): 15-16 ft-lbs
Front master cylinder cap screws: 12-15 inch-lbs
When installing front caliper, snug both bolts by hand, then torque the bottom bolt to spec, then the top bolt last.

Front Forks Removal:
** To remove the tube top cap nuts, you must first loosen the top pinch bolts on triple tree, otherwise the caps will NOT budge- Leave bottom pinch bolts tight so the tube does not spin while loosening the tube cap nuts. DO NOT remove the top cap nuts while forks are on bike.

** Use a strip of masking tape around the flats of the tube cap nuts to avoid marring finish with the socket.

** Cover your tanks, including the lower front, with a towel (better safe than sorry)

** Mark your tubes for location: Before loosening or pulling the tubes out, use a piece masking tape to mark the front of tubes on the tube under the bottom triple tree , and a matching piece / mark on the lower front of triple tree, so you can put the tubes back in the same way. When you tighten the tube cap nuts they too will end up the same way as before.

** No tube scratches: Wipe the upper part of fork tubes clean between the triple trees, and then coat with WD40 to prevent scratches while removing.

Front Fork Removal Steps FXSB Breakout:
Loosen top triple tree (T45 bit) pinch bolts

Loosen top tube cap nut a few turns 35mm socket (if you are not going to service forks or change springs, skip this step and leave the top cap tight)

Grab bottom of fork slider and then loosen the lower triple tree T45 pinch bolt - Fork will drop, carefully guide it out without cocking it.

Remove top fork cap nut::
DIY Warning! There is a LOT of pre-load on the stock springs via a really long spacer sitting on top of really long progressive (crappy) spring. I would not advise removing the top tube caps while fork tubes are on the bike, you just won't have enough physical leverage to control the pop-off.

To safely remove the FXSB fork tube top caps:
First loosen the top triple tree pinch bolt, then loosen tube top cap while on bike (maybe 2-3 turns)

Then loosen bottom pinch bolt and pull fork leg out (wipe upper part of fork tube first with wd40 for easy slide out with no scratches).

Next, set bottom end of fork on ground, on a couple of layers of soft cloth. Place the 35mm socket onto the cap bolt, then drape a big towel over the fork tube and over the 35mm socket. Now poke a hole poked in the towel for the 3/8" drive ratchet wrench, so you can stick it through into the 35mm socket.

Use a bungee or tape and do a wrap around the towel about halfway down the fork tube- Then stick the ratchet wrench through the hole in towel into the 35mm socket and proceed to remove cap nut, while putting your body weight over the wrench to control pop-up of the cap / keep pressure off the threads. When the cap pops free, the towel will prevent the cap from flying out of control and you can easily take it off without damaging the cap finish.

See my next post for exact steps on swapping the fork springs and adding the Ricor dampers.

Reinstalling Fork tube:
Wipe fork tube clean, wipe upper tube lightl with WD40. Now slide it back up the triples.
Check the fork tube height, and your forward mark. Now snug the bottom triple pinch bolt just enough to hold the fork tube. Recheck fork tube height and forward mark, then TQ the bottom pinch bolt.
Now tighten tube top cap nut, TQ to spec.
Then tighten the top pinch bolts, TQ to spec.
Reinstall fender, then wheel / axle, then caliper.

TQ Values:
Front fork tube cap nut (35mm socket / wrench): 60-70 ft-lbs
Fork fork pinch bolts (T45) (upper and lower): 30-35 ft-lbs
Fender bolts (13mm): 15-21 ft-lbs
Fork tube height adjustment: 0.35 in (8.9mm). This is how far the fork tubes should sit above the triple tree. Measure from top edge of tube cap nut to top surface of triple tree. Basically the bottom edge of tube cap should be just a hair above flush with the front top surface of triple tree.



[img]file://localhost/private/var/folders/dj/m49ptlvs5vsgm2cy3pd_9s1w0000gp/T/TemporaryItems/msoclip/0/clip_image006.png[/img]Harley Breakout Performance Upgrade of Front Forks and Dampers DIY
Upgrading the FXSB Breakout fork springs to Race Tech 1.0kg springs and adding Ricor Intiminator dampers on 49mm forks:

**Before you slide the fork tube out of the triple trees, wipe down the upper part of fork tube so it is spotless, then wipe it with wd40. this prevents scratches while sliding it out.

Removing stock springs, spacer and oil from forks:
With fork tube removed from bike and top cap nut removed (see my above post for warning / tip on cap nut removal), set the bottom of fork on a soft towel on the ground. Pull out the factory preload spacer, washer and spring. Pull spring up slowly to avoid oil going everywhere and have a rag handy.

Dump oil out of fork tube into container, there's about 26oz in there. Pump the fork collapsed / open several times while holding upside down to get all the oil out. When you stop hearing squishy noises and it's mostly air noise, you've got it all out.





PREP ITEMS TO HAVE READY before proceeding with each fork tube:

• 2 16oz bottles of fork oil (2 per fork, you'll need 4 bottles), open and ready
• Pour 10oz of fork oil from one of the bottles into a container at this time and set aside, you'll need it ready to grab. Put that half empty bottle away you don't need it.
• Keep one of the stock springs and the stock preload spacer handy, you'll need these within reach too.
• Also keep the old washers as we'll re-use those too.
• A pair of PVC cutters, or a hacksaw if you can cut straight (lol)
• A sharpie marking pen
• Paper towels
• A couple of soft large towels
• Something to lean the fork against at a 60-degree angle while you cut the preload spacers- the 60-degree angle is important.

Keep this all within easy reach.

Installation Steps:
With fork upright, fill fork with 16oz (one bottle) of 5w fork oil. You'll see it bubble down past the factory damper.

Work the fork up and down slowly a bunch of times to get the air out. be sure you are pushing all the way down and pulling all the way up. when you stop hearing air / gurgling noises, all of the air is out.

Collapse the tube all the way down. Drop the Ricor unit into the tube, nut side UP.
Use the old spring to push the Ricor unit all the way down. You will need to use the old preload spacer to get the final bit of push and seat it against the bottom.

Pull out the old preload spacer, pull out the old stock spring, extend the top fork tube all the way up - and be sure it is all the way up cause it will want to slide back down on it's own.

Drop in the Race Tech spring, drop in the old washer on top of the spring.

The Race Tech springs came with a piece of PVC pipe to use as your new preload spacers. Take the long piece and slide it into the fork tube.

While holding the fork tube all the way up, use the sharpie to mark the pvc cutline at exactly flush with top of tube. Again double check your tube is fully extended. Spin the pvc and continue the mark all around.

Pull pvc out, watch for oil drips. Lean the fork tube at a 60 degree angle against something soft. Make sure the fork tube is not collapsing on it's own and could fall over, cause with the 5w it will want to collapse. leaning it at an angle should keep it from sliding back down.

Cut the pvc at the mark. Make sure your cut is flat and straight, wipe the PVC clean inside and out, and don't leave any PVC burrs that could contaminate the suspension system.

Fill fork tube with remaining 10oz of fork oil while holding fork fully extended.

Drop in your new cut PVC preload spacer (be SURE you put that washer in there on top of the spring, the preload spacer sits on top of the washer). Be sure it looks flush with the top of extended tube.

Install tube cap nut:
Place fork tube on ground, on your soft cloth, upright. While holding the upper tube up, press down on the cap until you feel thread contact. While pressing on the cap, spin the upper fork tube to start the threads. be careful not to cross thread. Get a few threads started to be sure it is secure

Now get the 35mm socket, and spin cap on snug but not final tight.

Insert fork tube into triple tree, set height, note your front of tube location, snug the bottom triple tree pinch bolt to hold it in place

Do the next fork leg, same process..







RESULTS post-upgrade:

The front tire stays planted, no more religious experiences even pushing the corners through the rough.

Fast braking is drastically improved. the rear tire really sticks, no more nose dive, and I'm hard pressed to make the rear lock up. I now pretty much need to stand on the rear brake to lock up the rear at 30/45 mph, whereas before it didn't take much.

The Ricor's really work AAA+++
The 1.0kg springs are firm but not overly so, they will feel less firm if you are 200+lbs suited up, mor efirm if less than say 190 suited up. If you want it a bit more soft go with .90 kg springs.

I get more cornering clearance now since the front end is not dropping down under weight.

Overall- helluva lot of bang for the buck with the Night Dragon tiress, Race Tech springs, EBC HH pads and the Ricor Intiminators.





In case some of you would prefer to have your dealer or local wrench perform the spring and damper upgrade on your Breakout. Print this out and give to dealer / tech for quick step-by-step instructions. There is no deviation from these steps- this is the way to do it, and it is very easy.

-------------------------------------------------

Install Guide (short) for FXSB Breakout (all years), Race Tech springs and Ricor Intiminator 49mm Dampers.

-----------------------------
Parts needed:

• 1 set of Race Tech 1.0kg springs
• 1 pair of Ricor dampers
• 4 16oz bottles of 5w fork oil (25.6oz of 5w fork oil per leg), Amsoil or Maxxima brand
• 1 length of PVC pipe for the new pre-load spacers, this comes with the Race Tech springs in the box.
  -------------------------------------------
  With fork tubes removed from motorcycle:
  --------------------------------------------
  
  1. Remove fork tube cap nut, remove stock pre-load spacer tube, remove washer and stock springs. Save stock washer for re-use with new springs and new pre-load spacers.
  
  2. Dump oil from shocks and thoroughly pump out all of the old oil since the new Ricor dampers require 5w. (Only use 5w, DO NOT use 10w)
  
  3. Fill fork tube with 16oz (1 bottle) of 5w fork oil. Pump the fork tube fully up and down to purge air out.
  
  4. Insert Ricor damper, nut side facing UP, use old spring to push the Ricor unit down and seat on top of stock damper. Make sure it is fully seated.
  
  5. Extend fork tube upper fully, insert new Race Tech spring directly on top of Ricor damper.
  
  6. Measure and cut new preload spacer: Insert PVC pipe and let rest on top of spring without washer. With fork tube fully extended, mark cut-line on PVC exactly flush with top of fork tube. This will give just under 1" of spring preload after all is assembled with the washer added and cap nut installed.
  
  6. Remove PVC pipe and cut at mark, clean off any burrs and clean inside / outside of PVC pipe
  
  7. With fork tube fully extended, add remaining 9.6oz of 5w fork oil (25.6oz per fork tube).
  
  8. Insert stock washer on top of spring, insert new PVC spacer on top of washer, install top fork tube cap nut.
  
  9. Repeat above steps for second fork tube.
  
  10. Reinstall forks on motorcycle, torque pinch bolts and tube cap nut in sequence and to values per HD Service Manual.

 

Great forum guys, new member, love seeing something specific to our choice of ride! Introduction to my ride, got some decent mods on it with latest being blacked out rims, sprocket and belt guard! I’m humbled by the great rides I see here!