When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hi All,
I could use some help and advice. I recently broke the final drive belt on my 93 sportster 883 xlh deluxe. I haven't done much wrenching since I was a kid ... 45 years ago ... but I am trying to do all I can on my sportster. I bought a factory service manual and a motorcycle lift and I think I have a good array of tools.
So my question is: how hard is this for a beginner mechanic to do? I can read the directions pretty well, but I would hate to screw something up due to inexperience that could compromise my safety ... or cause more belt breakage.
I see a tension gauge advertised with a tension adjusting tool for $25.00. Is this helpful or necessary?
But mostly I would like opinions on whether removing the tire and installing a new belt is to much of a job for a beginner working from a manual. How easy is it to screw something up that would compromise safety or cause ongoing problems?
Thanks in advance. Last time I posted here I got a great response and was able to fix my problem. So thanks again ...
It's not too bad. The tension tool is really helpful for getting the new belt tensioned correctly. Also you'll want a tool for aligning the back tire. I made one out of a coat hanger.
Look up Delboy garage on YouTube. He's got some pretty awesome instructional videos. Including tensioning the belt and aligning the rear tire.
You don't really need a belt tension gauge. To check the tension, grab the lower part of the belt half way between the two pulleys with your thumb and forefinger. I like to reach in from behind the belt when I grab it so that the thumb is on the bottom of the belt and your fingers are point towards you. Using just the thumb and forefinger, twist the belt as far as you can pushing upwards with your thumb. The belt should twist between a minimum of 45* (less is too tight) and a maximum of 90* (more is too loose), right in the middle is perfect.
I've used this method for over 100,000 miles and never had a problem.
This is also a quick and easy check you can do if you've let someone else change your rear tire, before you ride off into the sunset with a mis-adjusted belt.
I broke a belt on my 01 XLH883 and it wasn't too bad to fix, however there is a proper tension check using the tension check tool listed in the service manual. To be on the safe side I would go with those instructions and get the tension check tool (10lbs of force is hard to tell with just your finger). I have both upper and lower belt guards in place which make it more of a PITA to install but it is still fairly easy, you just need to loosen the rear wheel alignment to full and pull the rear axle out enough to get the belt through, just don't forget to put the spacer back in when reinserting the rear axle. Use the coat hangar trick as indicated above and your rear wheel alignment should be correct. Front sprocket cover was the only real issue as you have to remove the rear exhaust pipe and rear master cylinder to remove the cover. The whole job took me about an hour by myself to do. Remember to check your torque values as you don't want to strip any bolts or have them too loose. And one more thing, ensure that you have the gasket for the exhaust before you begin, they deteriorate and break up when removed.
How'd you get the new one on. And without removing the tire the tension would already be set. Making it impossible to get a new belt on
I took my top belt gaurd off. Put the bike on the lift. Removed the right shock, front pully gaurd. Loosened the tire and slide it forward... Poof, new belt went right on. Readjust tension and ride. 30 min job.
I took my top belt gaurd off. Put the bike on the lift. Removed the right shock, front pully gaurd. Loosened the tire and slide it forward... Poof, new belt went right on. Readjust tension and ride. 30 min job.
Ok you had me confused. Lol. Didn't mention loosening the wheel. I can see it now.
Unless you have calibrated fingers, buy that tension tool! A 300 pound weight lifter is likely to be a darned sight stronger than a 100 pound lass FFS, so forget about twisting. The main cause of broken belts (yours may just be very old) is incorrect belt tension, so set it right.
Unless you have calibrated fingers, buy that tension tool! A 300 pound weight lifter is likely to be a darned sight stronger than a 100 pound lass FFS, so forget about twisting. The main cause of broken belts (yours may just be very old) is incorrect belt tension, so set it right.
Just for grins and giggles, set your tension with a gauge, then see where you wind up doing the twist method. It ain't rocket science.
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.