TMAP Replacement
Got a 2010 Sportster Forty Eight. I need to replace the TMAP sensor. Having a difficult time getting the old one out. Seems to be blocked by the throttle bracket. Has this little hood preventing extraction. I cannot get sufficient leverage on the torx screw to get it off. Thoughts?
Update****New Issue
Started last night, same issues ran rough. Same p0108 code: TMAP sensor. This was replaced today. Now the bike wont start. Its almost as if the fuel isnt getting to the injectors. Now when I run the codes. I am getting several no rSP...any suggestions out there???
Started last night, same issues ran rough. Same p0108 code: TMAP sensor. This was replaced today. Now the bike wont start. Its almost as if the fuel isnt getting to the injectors. Now when I run the codes. I am getting several no rSP...any suggestions out there???
Did you connect all the wires to the battery? I've read of people missing the second "red" wire to the positive side.
Can you reset the electronics/ECU? My bike is an old carb model without all the fancy electronics, so I may be off base on this suggestion.
Seems like a simple procedure, you must have overlooked something if all you changed was the sensor. I've changed sensors on my truck and never had an issue.
John
Can you reset the electronics/ECU? My bike is an old carb model without all the fancy electronics, so I may be off base on this suggestion.
Seems like a simple procedure, you must have overlooked something if all you changed was the sensor. I've changed sensors on my truck and never had an issue.
John
The fault code might be due to a bad connection or faulty wiring. The error code could also be displayed if the fault exists in the ECM.
With multiple codes I would check the wiring loom and connectors.
Diagrams here - https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson....t/view?id=5537
With multiple codes I would check the wiring loom and connectors.
Diagrams here - https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson....t/view?id=5537
Last edited by Andy from Sandy; Jul 26, 2020 at 03:05 AM.
Your TMAP sensor may not be bad, check the wiring/connectors for the other sensors on the 5V reference.
Intermittent TPS malfunctions may cause the TMAP to set a code prior to the TPS codes setting.
The TMAP, JSS, TPS and VSS are connected to the same 5V reference line.
A faulty sensor can negatively affect the signal voltage of the other sensors sharing the same 5V reference.
Check your CPS Crank Position Sensor wiring, if the ECU does not get a signal from the CPS it will not fire the injectors and ignition.
Intermittent TPS malfunctions may cause the TMAP to set a code prior to the TPS codes setting.
The TMAP, JSS, TPS and VSS are connected to the same 5V reference line.
A faulty sensor can negatively affect the signal voltage of the other sensors sharing the same 5V reference.
Check your CPS Crank Position Sensor wiring, if the ECU does not get a signal from the CPS it will not fire the injectors and ignition.
From the 2008 FSM
1. Unplug Maxi-Fuse. See 7.34 MAXI-FUSE.
2. Remove air cleaner cover, air filter element and backing
plate assembly. See 4.3 AIR CLEANER.
3. Remove fuel rail and fuel injectors. See 4.12 FUEL
INJECTORS. This will allow access to the two screws that
secure the induction module to the intake manifold.
4. See Figure 4-40. Remove two screws (2) and separate
induction module from intake manifold. See 4.7 INDUCTION
MODULE.
5. See Figure 4-41. Pull induction module away from intake
manifold far enough so that TMAP sensor retaining bracket
(1) clears TMAP sensor body (2).
6. Unplug harness connector [80B] from TMAP connector
[80A] (3).
7. Grasp TMAP sensor and with a gentle twisting motion,
pull sensor straight up out of intake manifold body.
I would suspect that having removed the manifold with induction module the screws you are referring will be easy to get at.
1. Unplug Maxi-Fuse. See 7.34 MAXI-FUSE.
2. Remove air cleaner cover, air filter element and backing
plate assembly. See 4.3 AIR CLEANER.
3. Remove fuel rail and fuel injectors. See 4.12 FUEL
INJECTORS. This will allow access to the two screws that
secure the induction module to the intake manifold.
4. See Figure 4-40. Remove two screws (2) and separate
induction module from intake manifold. See 4.7 INDUCTION
MODULE.
5. See Figure 4-41. Pull induction module away from intake
manifold far enough so that TMAP sensor retaining bracket
(1) clears TMAP sensor body (2).
6. Unplug harness connector [80B] from TMAP connector
[80A] (3).
7. Grasp TMAP sensor and with a gentle twisting motion,
pull sensor straight up out of intake manifold body.
I would suspect that having removed the manifold with induction module the screws you are referring will be easy to get at.
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I'm an idiot...
First. The no RSP code I got was caused by run switch off. Easy correction. No longer have any code issues.
TMAP that was pulled out was definitely damaged and rusted. So the replacement was warranted. I pulled the manifold off and made things much easier for the switch.
Now the bike won't start. I am wondering if something went sideways when I pulled the injectors. I checked and rechecked all the connections both on the electronics and the fuel line. Could the ECM not be recognizing the new TMAP?
First. The no RSP code I got was caused by run switch off. Easy correction. No longer have any code issues.
TMAP that was pulled out was definitely damaged and rusted. So the replacement was warranted. I pulled the manifold off and made things much easier for the switch.
Now the bike won't start. I am wondering if something went sideways when I pulled the injectors. I checked and rechecked all the connections both on the electronics and the fuel line. Could the ECM not be recognizing the new TMAP?
The 2008 Electrical Diagnostic Manual suggests the TMAP sensor can be changed and it should work straight away.
What HD has is a set of breakout boxes that allows for voltages and resistances to be checked with everything plugged in. Probably very costly for a DIYer. You might be able to use a pin or similar to go in at the back of a connector to check to make checks.


What HD has is a set of breakout boxes that allows for voltages and resistances to be checked with everything plugged in. Probably very costly for a DIYer. You might be able to use a pin or similar to go in at the back of a connector to check to make checks.


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