Sitting for 3 years...
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Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: South Jordan, UT
Sitting for 3 years...
I just puchased 2005 883 custom with 70 miles that has been sitting since for three years and want to make sure I get everything off on the right foot mechanically.
Things I have already done:
1. New Fuel (or so I am told)
2. New Battery (wouldn't start without it)
3. Fresh Oil
4. New Plugs
5. Purchased Tranny fluid but haven't put it in yet
What other things should I be sure to do and/or look for on a bike that has been sitting for that long?
Things I have already done:
1. New Fuel (or so I am told)
2. New Battery (wouldn't start without it)
3. Fresh Oil
4. New Plugs
5. Purchased Tranny fluid but haven't put it in yet
What other things should I be sure to do and/or look for on a bike that has been sitting for that long?
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,178
Likes: 6
From: 50 Miles North N.Y.C.
Clean the bike look at all the nuts,bolts, fasteners cables,tires, belt, ck bk fuild,brakes apply and release. If the bike was stored in side in a dry place you should be good to go. Id ride it easy at first just like breaking in a new bike. Id change tranny fluid drain and I would add the new Fluid through primary inspection cover. Get a HD service manual if you don't have one for the 05 Sportster Model by the way congrats lots of luck
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,754
Likes: 2
From: Fort Worth, TX
I'd check hoses and tires, too. Dry rot. But I'm thinking the tires would be obvious and if they are good, the hoses might be good too. And if you've already checked all the other connections Carlo suggested and they are good, I'd venture a guess that the other stuff is likely good. Enjoy it!
Teek
Teek
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 8,831
Likes: 15
From: Nomad
First off, congrats on the find!
I assume you found this bike in UT, which makes your work considerably easier than if it came from a more humid place.
Check anything that is flexible for dryrot: tires, brake lines, wire insulation, grips, any seals.
Give the carb a good bath in some carb cleaner/gunk out.
Change all fluids. period. Be prepared to "sacrifice" some oil to flush out some of the sludge. As much as you can get out before firing it up will help. After you do get it running, it's a good idea to change fluids again in 50-100 miles.
New plugs may not be necessary, but wouldn't hurt.
Fuel tank could be an issue. Did it have fuel in it? Was the tank stored full, half-full? Was the fuel stabilized? If the tank has been sitting for that length of time with anything less than totally topped-off full with fuel stabilizer, I would drain it and inspect it carefully. I used to fix up old barn bikes (Triumphs and Yamahas) and did this a lot. You can get tank resealing kits that will help you get the rust/corrosion out (with some BBs), then reseal the tank.
Get the factory service manual (not a Clymers) and go over it according to the 1K checklist.
Barn bikes are fun to revive, but be careful. You'd be surprised what can happen to them doing a whole lot of nothing. Just take your time with it. It'll be fun.
Edit: And since this is still a new bike, ride it accordingly. Man, what a find!
I assume you found this bike in UT, which makes your work considerably easier than if it came from a more humid place.
Check anything that is flexible for dryrot: tires, brake lines, wire insulation, grips, any seals.
Give the carb a good bath in some carb cleaner/gunk out.
Change all fluids. period. Be prepared to "sacrifice" some oil to flush out some of the sludge. As much as you can get out before firing it up will help. After you do get it running, it's a good idea to change fluids again in 50-100 miles.
New plugs may not be necessary, but wouldn't hurt.
Fuel tank could be an issue. Did it have fuel in it? Was the tank stored full, half-full? Was the fuel stabilized? If the tank has been sitting for that length of time with anything less than totally topped-off full with fuel stabilizer, I would drain it and inspect it carefully. I used to fix up old barn bikes (Triumphs and Yamahas) and did this a lot. You can get tank resealing kits that will help you get the rust/corrosion out (with some BBs), then reseal the tank.
Get the factory service manual (not a Clymers) and go over it according to the 1K checklist.
Barn bikes are fun to revive, but be careful. You'd be surprised what can happen to them doing a whole lot of nothing. Just take your time with it. It'll be fun.
Edit: And since this is still a new bike, ride it accordingly. Man, what a find!
Last edited by faber; Aug 7, 2008 at 09:05 AM.
Road Warrior
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,387
Likes: 1
From: Saint George, Utah
Even if the brakes are good to the touch, it's still a wise decision to replace the fluid. After it sits for a while, it can go bad. I'd also check to see if the forks rebound after a hard brake, but more than likely the fork fluid is still good. Definitely take it easy since the bike only has 70 mi. on it. Once everything is good to go, I'd take it up Emigration Canyon then loop over to Park City and down to Provo Canyon for a good break in ride for you and the bike. Better get a good seat though.
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