Dumb oil changing question...
Club Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 16,320
Likes: 306
From: Boynton Beach, FloriDuh
Well, I'm just going to hope to god everything is ok. It made me sick to my stomach opening up the primary cover and looking in and not seeing any oil. I picked up some Supertech 75w140 synthetic gear oil and it seems to be ok. I probably sound like a complete moron on here but I'm glad I asked. Thanks all.
ok so shoot me in the right direction. I am new to the motorcycle world. I was passed down my dads bike and just changed the oil in it. I pulled the plug that is underneath the bike, drained the oil and i watched it drain and i know its the engine oil because when i looked there was no oil in the oil resevior. I added that oil to the right specifications. I have an 04.....is there anything else i should do when i change the oil....of course i changed the filter as well. How often should i do the tranny and how do i do it.
If in doubt, measure the quantity of oil in the drain pan. A motor drain will be 2.5-3.0 quarts, the primary drain will be about 1 quart.
Either way, $60.00 for a Service Manual is a butt load cheaper than what it will cost you for screwing up an oil change.
Club Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 16,320
Likes: 306
From: Boynton Beach, FloriDuh
The problem with referring to other sections on this forum is that 95% of the info applies to Big Twins, NOT Sportsters. 75w140 is not designed to be used with a wet clutch. In a BT, the clutch is not in the same oil bath as the tranny. In the Sporty, it is.
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Cruiser
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 243
Likes: 0
From: Vernon Hills, IL
I'm good to just warm it up then drain and put 75w90 in there than, right? The 75w140 has no friction modifiers in it, it's just a higher viscosity than the 75w90. I've read in a coupel different forums this just makes shifting a bit smoother. I might ride with it for a while and see how it is.. $10 for synthetic gear oil isn't bad if you ask me.
Last edited by brainfrz; Mar 16, 2010 at 09:48 AM.
Road Master
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 889
Likes: 1
From: Long Island, New York
I'm good to just warm it up then drain and put 75w90 in there than, right? The 75w140 has no friction modifiers in it, it's just a higher viscosity than the 75w90. I've read in a coupel different forums this just makes shifting a bit smoother. I might ride with it for a while and see how it is.. $10 for synthetic gear oil isn't bad if you ask me.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 6,478
Likes: 12
From: Nashville, TN
I'm good to just warm it up then drain and put 75w90 in there than, right? The 75w140 has no friction modifiers in it, it's just a higher viscosity than the 75w90. I've read in a coupel different forums this just makes shifting a bit smoother. I might ride with it for a while and see how it is.. $10 for synthetic gear oil isn't bad if you ask me.
I do know a lot more about the clutch than I ever wanted to know. And it's really amazing to me that it gets properly lubricated anyway. I wouldn't want to do anything to make it more difficult for the oil to somehow find it's way inside the clutch basket. I would change out to 75w90 pretty quickly. Of course the 75w140 has got to be better than nothing. But, trust me, if the clutch hasn't been totally destroyed, you don't want to replace it.
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Cruiser
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 243
Likes: 0
From: Vernon Hills, IL
From what I know of this, which is limited, the problem with 75w140 gear oil has to do with the wet clutch, that is unique to the Sportsters. The higher viscosity will preclude the oil from getting into the clutch basket properly.
I do know a lot more about the clutch than I ever wanted to know. And it's really amazing to me that it gets properly lubricated anyway. I wouldn't want to do anything to make it more difficult for the oil to somehow find it's way inside the clutch basket. I would change out to 75w90 pretty quickly. Of course the 75w140 has got to be better than nothing. But, trust me, if the clutch hasn't been totally destroyed, you don't want to replace it.
I do know a lot more about the clutch than I ever wanted to know. And it's really amazing to me that it gets properly lubricated anyway. I wouldn't want to do anything to make it more difficult for the oil to somehow find it's way inside the clutch basket. I would change out to 75w90 pretty quickly. Of course the 75w140 has got to be better than nothing. But, trust me, if the clutch hasn't been totally destroyed, you don't want to replace it.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 6,478
Likes: 12
From: Nashville, TN
I was just in my garage, and happened to see my recently replaced primary chain adjuster foot. That part is made out of hard plastic. It is fairly inexpensive (less than $30). Since that chain was running dry across that plastic I think that would be a good idea to replace. It is a relatively easy install, and with the extra heat that had to be generated on that plastic foot, it's quite likely chewed up pretty bad. Everything else that is inside that hole is not cheap or easy to replace. And they are made out of metal not plastic. As a preventive measure, I would replace that adjuster foot. If it is chewed up, the primary chain will be next.
Good luck. Most of us have done a few stupid things when working on our bikes.
Good luck. Most of us have done a few stupid things when working on our bikes.
Last edited by SportyPig; Mar 16, 2010 at 11:21 AM.
Tourer
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 317
Likes: 0
From: Columbus, Ohio
Would it be a good idea in this situation to drain the tranny fluid after a few hundred miles or so to get some of the gunk suspended and out of there. I am sure it must have gotten nasty in there w/o lubrication.
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