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help with vance&hines short shots install!

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Old Mar 1, 2011 | 08:59 PM
  #1  
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Default help with vance&hines short shots install!

installed new short shots staggered on my 2010 sportster forty eight
my question is they don't seem to be leaking but what is correct install of header pipe i installed new gaskets, took out old ones! are you supposed to push header pipe into new gasket in exhaust port or do you place pipe and flange onto studs and crank down on the nuts until pipes tighten up
just seems like there is not alot of threads showing after nut is cranked down onto studs what is best way to tell if i did it correctly?
thanks newbie here!
 
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Old Mar 1, 2011 | 10:27 PM
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I'm so lost...you take the flanges from the stock unit and put them on the new exhaust. You then bolt them on the bike, but you must fit the o2 sensor as well (I screwed it into the bung to make sure they fit, then took it back out before the install).

After that, re-install the o2 sensors and the heatshields.

Must be different from a 2010 Iron with Short Shots.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2011 | 12:50 AM
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It's a pain, but I used my fingers to push the new gaskets into place as best I could. I got them a good 1/2 of the way in (so to speak). Then I placed the end of the pipe into position and tightened it down a little then removed it again so that the gasket was as equally seated as possible in the cylinder then tapped it with handle of a screwdriver until it was as far in as I could manage to get it. I then installed the pipe and tightened it down all the way. I did remove one pipe again just to see if that worked and for me it seated just like the old gasket so it worked well. I did the same to the other side, but didn't check it's final state and it has worked fine since.
I'm sure this isn't the "approved" method but that's what I did.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2011 | 07:21 AM
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thanks ace that's exactly what i was talking about i didn't remove the pipe to see how it fit
after the fact, i wonder if i should? i thought about loosening everything and try to push flanges tighter into port with screw driver handle or wooden dowel or something

it just doesnt look like i have alot of threads showing on my studs after tigtening up the 2-nuts on each flange?
should i have an inch or so?
 
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Old Mar 2, 2011 | 07:29 AM
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I used a 1/4 extension to tap it in a wheel seal installer tool would have been perfect to seat the gasket.I just checked them after the first couple rides to make sure they were tight and seated fully.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2011 | 07:54 AM
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tproasi helped throw mine on as well. After the first 2-3 rides I would check to see if everything was still tight. I got about another 1/4 turn after the first ride, maybe a little less than that after the second.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2011 | 08:47 AM
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I used copper crush gaskets, nice and simple.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by mparrish2010
thanks ace that's exactly what i was talking about i didn't remove the pipe to see how it fit
after the fact, i wonder if i should? i thought about loosening everything and try to push flanges tighter into port with screw driver handle or wooden dowel or something

it just doesnt look like i have alot of threads showing on my studs after tigtening up the 2-nuts on each flange?
should i have an inch or so?

I just checked mine and they are pretty much flush with the nut. One post sticks out maybe an 1/8 of an inch and on that set the other post is inset about the same amount so I'm guessing it's seated a little crooked. I'm not going to mess with it, it made it through an entire summer of hard riding and there's no problems.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 11:24 PM
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It is dumb that HD used studs/nuts. It made my pipe install a pain. If I ever take the pipes off again I will be removing the studs and using hex head bolts instead.
 
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