Advice on purchase
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2nd Gear
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 6
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From: South Carolina
Advice on purchase
I'm looking to buy a 2000 1200C. The bike looks great. What scares me is that it has only 4,000 miles. That's not a lot of action over the course of 11 or 12 years. Let's assume the worst. Let's assume the bike sat for years with all fluids in it, including gas, and wasn't prepared for storage at all. Beyond changing fluids, battery, tires, and cleaning the carb, what would need to be done to it to get it in working condition? Pretty much every gasket/seal on the bike? Would it even be worth taking a chance on? Anyone have experience with a bike after it was improperly stored for years? Thanks
Road Captain
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 693
Likes: 67
From: LI, NY
>Beyond changing fluids, battery, tires, and cleaning the carb
Chase down every fluid system.
Rebuild the master cylinders, replace brake lines & hoses, rebuild calipers.
Inspect / reline / replace gas tank as needed. Replace shutoff valve, fuel hose.
Replace the oil hoses, vacumn hoses.
Be glad there's no cooling fluid
Did I miss anything?
Chase down every fluid system.
Rebuild the master cylinders, replace brake lines & hoses, rebuild calipers.
Inspect / reline / replace gas tank as needed. Replace shutoff valve, fuel hose.
Replace the oil hoses, vacumn hoses.
Be glad there's no cooling fluid
Did I miss anything?
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,112
Likes: 40
From: Boise Idaho
I bought my bike new in 2000 and it only has 5600 miles on it and nothing leaks. I'd just do the things you already listed and ride.
I ride my bike a lot but it's all in town, it takes an awful lot of riding to rack up big mileage in town.
I ride my bike a lot but it's all in town, it takes an awful lot of riding to rack up big mileage in town.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 8,218
Likes: 827
From: Reston, Va
I just bought an '01 with less than 3000 miles on it. I've put over 800 miles in the last six weeks. So far and it's running strong.
I would recommend changing the fluids, the oil at least. I would also give it a good eyeballing, especially the tires.
Other than that, I recommend enjoying it while there's still something left of the riding season. It will be over before you know it.
I would recommend changing the fluids, the oil at least. I would also give it a good eyeballing, especially the tires.
Other than that, I recommend enjoying it while there's still something left of the riding season. It will be over before you know it.
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2nd Gear
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 6
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From: South Carolina
Much appreciated, everyone.
What do you mean by that, Howler?
Luckily, riding season lasts pretty much year-round around my parts. At least, I make it last about year-long. As long as there's no snow and above 30 F, I'll be out.
Beautiful bike, A5. That's a bit out of my price range, however. Thanks, though
Chase down every fluid system.
Other than that, I recommend enjoying it while there's still something left of the riding season. It will be over before you know it.
Beautiful bike, A5. That's a bit out of my price range, however. Thanks, though
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: USA
My '96 Sportster sat for six years before I found and took it home. You should be fine, however, I would pull the carb (not that difficult) and rebuild it vs. cleaning ... just my .02 cents.
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Road Captain
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 693
Likes: 67
From: LI, NY
I meant go through every system that uses any fluid. Gas & brake fluid accumulate moisture, which over time causes rust.
BTW, you said worst case, which is what I described, the cure for 12 years of neglect in a damp environment.
My experience is in old and antique cars and trucks. There could be cycle specific stuff I don't know about. But rust is rust, and rusty brakes suck no matter how big. They still clamp on the rotor, but get hot and stick. Think coming down a mountain, hot brakes, you brake for a turn, release as you turn in, but the brakes stay on. Since you did not plan on braking & turning at the same time, traction required could easily exceed traction available which means you can't steer.
I've rebuild light truck calipers. If the metal parts are good (yours should be) they just need disassembly and cleaning if you can get new rubber seals. If heavily rusted get new calipers.
I wouldn't trust 12 year old rubber either.
If it's been serviced 24 times (2x per year) then no worries. I can't see it.
BTW, you said worst case, which is what I described, the cure for 12 years of neglect in a damp environment.
My experience is in old and antique cars and trucks. There could be cycle specific stuff I don't know about. But rust is rust, and rusty brakes suck no matter how big. They still clamp on the rotor, but get hot and stick. Think coming down a mountain, hot brakes, you brake for a turn, release as you turn in, but the brakes stay on. Since you did not plan on braking & turning at the same time, traction required could easily exceed traction available which means you can't steer.
I've rebuild light truck calipers. If the metal parts are good (yours should be) they just need disassembly and cleaning if you can get new rubber seals. If heavily rusted get new calipers.
I wouldn't trust 12 year old rubber either.
If it's been serviced 24 times (2x per year) then no worries. I can't see it.
Last edited by Howler_LI; Jul 11, 2012 at 11:12 AM.
Road Master
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 1,188
Likes: 24
From: New Hampshire
I would plan on a couple of new tires for safety. If it has been sitting i would at least take the air cleaner off to make sure nothing has built a nest in there, mice love to do that. might want to clean the carb while your in there.
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