Wheel Bearing Part Number Question
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Road Master
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,151
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From: Seattle
Wheel Bearing Part Number Question
I'm planning to change out my original bearings at 48K miles on my 2012 Limited. No issues but I want to be ahead of any problems that have been dicussed on this board.
I have ABS so I understand that I need to get the OEM #9252. My question is on the non ABS bearing #9276A. Kutter has these for $16 so I suppose they retail for about $20. The acceptable replacement is PN# 6205-2RS from what I've figured out. I've seen these ranging from $3-4 to $28 from Grainger. Why the discrepancy and should I just get the OEM's?
Thanks,
I have ABS so I understand that I need to get the OEM #9252. My question is on the non ABS bearing #9276A. Kutter has these for $16 so I suppose they retail for about $20. The acceptable replacement is PN# 6205-2RS from what I've figured out. I've seen these ranging from $3-4 to $28 from Grainger. Why the discrepancy and should I just get the OEM's?
Thanks,
Tourer
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 473
Likes: 5
From: New Braunfels TX
Surely you jest. No way can the wheel bearings go that many miles without exploding your wheels. Glad they lasted so long.
I remember reading on here (lots of posts about changing out wheel bearings on this forum) that the ABS has to be OEM, and there is another better bearing that can be ordered that is made by a better company that you can grease or something like that.
I remember reading on here (lots of posts about changing out wheel bearings on this forum) that the ABS has to be OEM, and there is another better bearing that can be ordered that is made by a better company that you can grease or something like that.
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
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From: Bedford UK
The non-ABS bearing is a bog standard one probably made by every bearing brand on the planet! So it is widely available from any bearing supplier, possibly even an auto store. The #6205 is probably engraved on the bearing in your wheel and will be common to all brands.
Road Master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 959
Likes: 5
From: Oswego, IL
Open up the new bearing and use s needle tip for you grease gun and make sure there is enough grease in the new bearing. I checked my new bearings and the abs ones were fine but the standard ones were needing quite a bit of grease.. There is a thread here somewhere showing how to do it.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 27,097
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From: Frozelandia, Minnysota
I've seen aftermarket bearings with plastic ball cages inside, wouldn't want that. Also, some of the popular brand bearings are just Chinese bearings packed in their boxes. Anything I buy today, I pop a plastic seal off and check inside; most I've seen had enough grease (quality unknown, of course), but I've opened some that just had a hair line of grease on one side of the bearing cage. Even found a couple or three with no grease at all. Any time I'm in doubt about the grease, I clean them out and grease them with what I know is good stuff. Every failed bearing I've looked at had too little grease, dried grease (shouldn't see this with modern synthetics), or dirty grease. The last wheel I bought had new bearings in it; threw them away with zero miles, had plastic cages.
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Road Master
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,151
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From: Seattle
OK guys, thanks. The part I didn't understand was that the 6205-2RS was made by several manufacturers (with varying quality), therefore the drastic pricing variation.
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From: Bedford UK
It's an industry identification number. Chose your favourite bearing brand and buy theirs!
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