Battery problem?

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Nov 30, 2014 | 10:32 AM

#21

the glove

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Joined: Dec 2007

Posts: 137

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From: montana

I had to get a new battery after 1 1/2 years on my 2012 RK checked out cranking amps they were only 38,,,,they replaced under warranty

Nov 30, 2014 | 11:07 PM

#22

FirstElectra

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Joined: Dec 2012

Posts: 56

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From: Dry Prong La.

this brought mine back

2014 flhtk slow to start in cold weather, battery is a year old. Tried conventional smart chargers, no change.
Borrowed one of these from a fellow rider.
Http://www.amazon.com/XTREME-CHARGE-BATTERY-CHARGER/dp/B001JSTM8I
and after several nights, rode to work everyday, battery is back to full kick.
I purchased one and hook it up on weekends battery has stayed strong.

Last edited by FirstElectra; Nov 30, 2014 at 11:09 PM. Reason: link broke

Dec 1, 2014 | 05:47 AM

#23

danny54

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Joined: Sep 2011

Posts: 495

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From: naples fl.

Your battery is shot, Mine only lasted two years, 2011 ultra, No problems now!

Dec 1, 2014 | 07:44 AM

#24

Veekness

Elite HDF Member

Joined: Nov 2013

Posts: 4,377

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From: Santa Clarita

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flhrhog

Here is what I have found out to today. I charged the battery with car charger, it was at 95%. Connected my digital meter to the bike, it read 12.35 volts give or take, meter jumps around. Turn switch on, voltage jumps up to 12.7. Crank it over, meter goes down to 10 something volts, happens fast meter is flashing numbers quick. It is cranking over kind of slow. When it is running it is charging in the low 14s. It is 55 outside, got down to 35 last night. After the bike cranks the first time it will fire up fine till it sets for awhile and cools off. All connections are good and tight.

Answered your own question, in a sense...if at rest, your battery is in the twelve volt range, it's not enough to efficiently turn the engine over, and if after leaving it on the battery tender, it's still the same, do not pass go...new battery. Often, a battery charger will only put a 'surface charge' on a battery, and that's not enough to torque the engine over. Don't concern yourself with how old the battery is...I've had them last over six years on a Harley, I've had them barely last a year. Get a new battery, before you do ANYTHING, put it on your battery tender, get it to full charge, and only then, use it! Keep it hooked up to the battery tender when you're not using it, and you, too, may get six years or so out of it!

Dec 3, 2014 | 11:01 AM

#25

Flhrhog

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From: MS

Just got back from auto zone. My battery tested 100%. Nothing wrong with it?

Dec 3, 2014 | 11:07 AM

#26

NVERL8

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Joined: Mar 2013

Posts: 228

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From: Cincinnati

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flhrhog

Just got back from auto zone. My battery tested 100%. Nothing wrong with it?

As others have said it should not drop to 10v under load. I am wondering if the tech at auto zone knew how to work his tester.............

Dec 3, 2014 | 11:32 AM

#27

Flhrhog

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From: MS

Quote:

Originally Posted by NVERL8

As others have said it should not drop to 10v under load. I am wondering if the tech at auto zone knew how to work his tester.............

U maybe right, there is another place I can get it tested at after work that is on my way home.......

Dec 3, 2014 | 07:38 PM

#28

Flhrhog

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From: MS

Neither place had an actual load tester, it was a digital pc of c$@p. Both places said the battery is good! I put it on and the bike it pooped and farted and I let off the start button. Punched it again. Fired up and ran great. Killed it and started it several times. No problems. What to do, spend 125 on a new battery or what?