Hydraulic Lifter Problem
Cruiser
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 212
Likes: 1
From: Florida Space Coast
That lifter is trash. With that said, does the wheel still roll? I'm guessing the cam has some pretty good wear too.
At 48K, it's time to spend some $ and go through the cam chest; oil pump, bearings, adjusters, lifters and anything else you see in there that looks even worn. Do it now while it will be apart and save the $ later on.
Roger
At 48K, it's time to spend some $ and go through the cam chest; oil pump, bearings, adjusters, lifters and anything else you see in there that looks even worn. Do it now while it will be apart and save the $ later on.
Roger
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 3,917
Likes: 184
From:
Your very lucky my friend, by the looks of the lifter it was locking up and skating real bad, most of those don't end as good as your did. I'd really try and see what the cams look like, I'd say they have some wear on them no doubt and as stated it would be a great time to replace the ina cam bearings to the SE Cam bearings and put some GMR Lifters in these along with new tensioners.
Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,336
Likes: 415
From: Southern Maryland
Scuffed hydraulic lifters
If I have time today, I will remove the exhaust and pull the cam bearing cover to look at the cams. The rollers seemed to roll ok but somehow that rear cylinder stopped rolling I guess. I am in uncharted waters right now, as I work my way through this. My friends said I should have just traded it in on a new Limited, which my dealer is discounting right now $2500 off MSRP. I'll try to take a sharper picture if I can and post it as I go.
Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,336
Likes: 415
From: Southern Maryland
That lifter is trash. With that said, does the wheel still roll? I'm guessing the cam has some pretty good wear too.
At 48K, it's time to spend some $ and go through the cam chest; oil pump, bearings, adjusters, lifters and anything else you see in there that looks even worn. Do it now while it will be apart and save the $ later on.
Roger
At 48K, it's time to spend some $ and go through the cam chest; oil pump, bearings, adjusters, lifters and anything else you see in there that looks even worn. Do it now while it will be apart and save the $ later on.
Roger
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,664
Likes: 184
From: Indiana, USA
As mentioned above, the roller on that lifter lovked up and the wear on the roller is most likely similar to the wear on that cam lobe. 2009 has the newer high volume oil pump.
Pull your exhaust, drop your front floorboard and remove the cam cone cover. remove the cam gears and spacer keeping everything oriented so it goes back together the same way it came off, especially the chain.
Remove the cam support plate and watch for oil pump gearotor and washer to stick from oil on back side of plate. Again keep everything in order and clean is critical. Look at the back side of the cam support palt where the gearotor runs. it is normal to have some marks however galds will allow oil pressure to drop.
Look at the cam the bad lifter was riding on, that lobe should be worn.
Purchase adjustable pushrods, a new lifter, new cams and a cam cover gasket and put it back together. Some would suggest changing all the lifters. Your call.
If it was mine, I would replace all lifters, install a new .555 lift cam and if you dont have it alreadyinstall a tuner.
Pull your exhaust, drop your front floorboard and remove the cam cone cover. remove the cam gears and spacer keeping everything oriented so it goes back together the same way it came off, especially the chain.
Remove the cam support plate and watch for oil pump gearotor and washer to stick from oil on back side of plate. Again keep everything in order and clean is critical. Look at the back side of the cam support palt where the gearotor runs. it is normal to have some marks however galds will allow oil pressure to drop.
Look at the cam the bad lifter was riding on, that lobe should be worn.
Purchase adjustable pushrods, a new lifter, new cams and a cam cover gasket and put it back together. Some would suggest changing all the lifters. Your call.
If it was mine, I would replace all lifters, install a new .555 lift cam and if you dont have it alreadyinstall a tuner.
Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,336
Likes: 415
From: Southern Maryland
Scuffed hydraulic lifters
Took a picture of both rear cylinder lifters showing the scuffing. Am expecting the worse now that I see these. Also the inboard one hung up as I was pulling it out, but turned it slightly and it came out. Didn't have any trouble pulling any of the other three out. That kind of worried me, but didn't see anything that looked wrong on the bore or the lifter.
Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,336
Likes: 415
From: Southern Maryland
Scuffed hydraulic lifters
As mentioned above, the roller on that lifter lovked up and the wear on the roller is most likely similar to the wear on that cam lobe. 2009 has the newer high volume oil pump.
Pull your exhaust, drop your front floorboard and remove the cam cone cover. remove the cam gears and spacer keeping everything oriented so it goes back together the same way it came off, especially the chain.
Remove the cam support plate and watch for oil pump gearotor and washer to stick from oil on back side of plate. Again keep everything in order and clean is critical. Look at the back side of the cam support palt where the gearotor runs. it is normal to have some marks however galds will allow oil pressure to drop.
Look at the cam the bad lifter was riding on, that lobe should be worn.
Purchase adjustable pushrods, a new lifter, new cams and a cam cover gasket and put it back together. Some would suggest changing all the lifters. Your call.
If it was mine, I would replace all lifters, install a new .555 lift cam and if you dont have it alreadyinstall a tuner.
Pull your exhaust, drop your front floorboard and remove the cam cone cover. remove the cam gears and spacer keeping everything oriented so it goes back together the same way it came off, especially the chain.
Remove the cam support plate and watch for oil pump gearotor and washer to stick from oil on back side of plate. Again keep everything in order and clean is critical. Look at the back side of the cam support palt where the gearotor runs. it is normal to have some marks however galds will allow oil pressure to drop.
Look at the cam the bad lifter was riding on, that lobe should be worn.
Purchase adjustable pushrods, a new lifter, new cams and a cam cover gasket and put it back together. Some would suggest changing all the lifters. Your call.
If it was mine, I would replace all lifters, install a new .555 lift cam and if you dont have it alreadyinstall a tuner.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 4,377
Likes: 647
From: Santa Clarita
Thanks for the above. My plan when I started this project was to replace the lifters and cams, but keep the stock pushrods if they were OK. They seem to be ok but need to roll them on a straight table to see if they wobble. I was going to put a stock cam back in because I am on a tight budget, have stock mufflers, no tuner and don't want to spend too much to repair it when in hindsight, could have just traded it in on a 2015 which my dealer is discounting $2500 off MSRP. If I end up spending $$, I will kick my self for doing this.
Regarding replacing the bike instead of repairing what you have...there was a time where we riders were as loyal to what we rode as we were to our friends and family...because your scooter is really a little bit of both. If you like your bike, if it does what you need it to do, why throw it away when it gets a little sick? If you fix it correctly, it will be as good as, if not better, than new! If you are overwhelmed with the task, either soldier thru and learn some new tricks, or just hand the project over to a trusted mechanic. In my opinion, the major portion of the cost of such a project is parts...if you locate an independent mechanic that you trust, and has a reasonable shop rate, when you add in the cost of special tools that you may never use again, you'll probably find that you're better off having the work done by a mechanic.
I've done a lot of engine work in my time, mostly automotive but some motorcycles, and when it's time for me to do what you're doing, I'm taking it to my guy...I'm figgering about four hours at $65.00 per hour...comes with a warranty. No brainer.
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Cruiser
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 212
Likes: 1
From: Florida Space Coast
SandCrab, Those are trash!!! The cam will be too.
If you don't have a manual, now is the time to get one.
I pulled the stock cams, lifters, and the oil pump (I cut the pushrods) back when the bike had 9000K miles. I installed a HP/HV pump, Andrews 57H cam, inner bearings, new lifters, and adj. pushrods. I'm not sure if the stock parts (103ci)would fit, I'd sell them to ya cheap.
Man you re so lucky the wheels didn't totally lock up and the tiny needle bearings get into the motor. Had an EVO do that and within 2K miles the rear cylinder developed a noise. The bits and pieces got between the piston and cylinder, needless to say it required a rebuild.
As for a new scoot; If you are not happy with the old one, fix it cheap and get the new one.
Good luck Bro,
Roger
If you don't have a manual, now is the time to get one.
I pulled the stock cams, lifters, and the oil pump (I cut the pushrods) back when the bike had 9000K miles. I installed a HP/HV pump, Andrews 57H cam, inner bearings, new lifters, and adj. pushrods. I'm not sure if the stock parts (103ci)would fit, I'd sell them to ya cheap.
Man you re so lucky the wheels didn't totally lock up and the tiny needle bearings get into the motor. Had an EVO do that and within 2K miles the rear cylinder developed a noise. The bits and pieces got between the piston and cylinder, needless to say it required a rebuild.
As for a new scoot; If you are not happy with the old one, fix it cheap and get the new one.
Good luck Bro,
Roger
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,664
Likes: 184
From: Indiana, USA
Your committed at this point as the bike has no value in its current state. I had a simlar issue a few years ago, had to suck it up and make it right.
The lifter in our modern twin cams are moving in precision bores in the cases, not like the older twins where we had lifter stools bolted to the case.
Take a good lifter and see if it will slide into the suspect bore(s) and move up and down freely. be sure it is an oiled bore. If it does then move on to replacing the trashed components. If it binds, reply back for ideas....
So you must have the top of the rockers off since you plan to reuse the perfect fit pushrods. Thats ok, you just need a top end gasket set. The complete set for a twin cam is $100 plus or minus and adjustable pushrods the same which is why i cut them out and go adjustable.
If you want to go back stock, check ebay and your local H-D shop, there are plenty of stock cams out there that were removed at the dealership before new delivery.
Maybe $100 for the replacement new/used stock cams, another $150 for the lifters, and $100 for the gasket kit so $350 and you are back in business
The lifter in our modern twin cams are moving in precision bores in the cases, not like the older twins where we had lifter stools bolted to the case.
Take a good lifter and see if it will slide into the suspect bore(s) and move up and down freely. be sure it is an oiled bore. If it does then move on to replacing the trashed components. If it binds, reply back for ideas....
So you must have the top of the rockers off since you plan to reuse the perfect fit pushrods. Thats ok, you just need a top end gasket set. The complete set for a twin cam is $100 plus or minus and adjustable pushrods the same which is why i cut them out and go adjustable.
If you want to go back stock, check ebay and your local H-D shop, there are plenty of stock cams out there that were removed at the dealership before new delivery.
Maybe $100 for the replacement new/used stock cams, another $150 for the lifters, and $100 for the gasket kit so $350 and you are back in business