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Cam scuffing

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Old Dec 14, 2014 | 03:40 PM
  #1  
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Default Cam scuffing

For those following my posts, my 09 Ultra Classic with 48,975 miles clattered when started. It was embarrasing to say the least. Took about a mile for them quiet down. Started tearing her down and this is what I found. The lifters were both scuffed like they skidded instead of rolling on the cams. The tensioner on the outside was worn, but the one on the inside of the cam cover looked good. The cams had wear on the lobes, which I expected, but look at where it rode on the cam bearings. Is this normal? Dealer put in HD synthetic at 1000 miles, put in AMSOIL at 3700 miles, and last year switched to MOBIL-1 synthetic.
 
Attached Thumbnails Cam scuffing-dscn9090-1280x960-.jpg   Cam scuffing-dscn9101.jpg   Cam scuffing-dscn9118.jpg   Cam scuffing-dscn9126.jpg  
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Old Dec 14, 2014 | 03:48 PM
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definitely not uncommon sandcrab. Lots of stories where lifter rollers failed and end up puking shavings throughout the motor.
At 49k miles, you're not to early, or late for that matter when it comes to rebuilding the cam chest.
Change everything, including the inner cam bearings, put S&S premium lifters in and run it another 100K.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2014 | 03:58 PM
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Or put Comp cams lifters in it at about $16.00 a piece every 40,000 miles or so and run it 147,000 miles...


http://www.ebay.com/itm/COMP-CAMS-85...40648f&vxp=mtr

 
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Old Dec 14, 2014 | 04:46 PM
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Looks like the lifter rollers are starting to come apart. Its not really uncommon. The tensioners look pretty normal for 50000 miles worth of wear.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2014 | 04:55 PM
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Pretty normal wear except lifter rollers. Nothing very uncommon. As stated, time for cam case rebuild. SE (torrington) cam bearings, tensioners, lifters (comp or S&S) and decent cam (not stock). Check the oil pump before ya put it back together. Good Luck.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2014 | 06:49 PM
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For some reason, I thought you had this all sussed out on another thread or two, Sandcrab? Bottom line is that it happens from time to time...replace it all...and all will be well.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2014 | 07:43 PM
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Default Multiple threads

Originally Posted by Veekness
For some reason, I thought you had this all sussed out on another thread or two, Sandcrab? Bottom line is that it happens from time to time...replace it all...and all will be well.
I started a new thread each step where i needed advice. My 1st post was on the roller lifters I believe, then some "how do I do this" posts, and then one on my tensioners, and finally the cams. This post kind of put it all together with pictures. I thought that if I just kept adding questions onto my original post, my subject would never change, and yet my problems kept evolving. So I started a new post each time I finished or figured out something. My next post will probably be on whether to just return to stock or upgrade. I just don't want to spend a fortune on an old bike with 50K miles, yet I am now committed to at least putting it back together with new parts/gaskets.

I have read enough posts saying the current lifters from HD are made in Mexico and probably not good. Mine were supposed to be good, but they didn't roll like they should have. I am reluctant to use car lifters as some have suggested, and if I upgrade to S&S or Woods, then I get caught up in a
tug-of-war with a Woods cam, then what good is that if my mufflers are stock. My headers are stock, no tuner, and so I end up spending $3k to do a lifter replacement when i could have bought a new 2015 Limited marked down $2500.

I look at it like this: MSRP $27,837 minus $2500 is $25,337. If I knew a week ago that I needed to spend another $1000 to $2500 on my old one, I could have made the argument that it got discounted the amount my repairs turn out to be. Does that make sense??
 
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Old Dec 14, 2014 | 07:51 PM
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Well, put in what you want/think will be best as far as upgrading everything. You won't kill it by not upgrading the exhaust right now or not doing the tuner right now. As long as you keep to your plan as you add/upgrade later this coming season, you'll be fine. If you like your bike now, you'll love it when all is said and done and it'll be $$$ well spent. JMHO.
And it's a LOT cheaper than a new bike.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2014 | 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Sandcrab
I started a new thread each step where i needed advice. My 1st post was on the roller lifters I believe, then some "how do I do this" posts, and then one on my tensioners, and finally the cams. This post kind of put it all together with pictures. I thought that if I just kept adding questions onto my original post, my subject would never change, and yet my problems kept evolving. So I started a new post each time I finished or figured out something. My next post will probably be on whether to just return to stock or upgrade. I just don't want to spend a fortune on an old bike with 50K miles, yet I am now committed to at least putting it back together with new parts/gaskets.

I have read enough posts saying the current lifters from HD are made in Mexico and probably not good. Mine were supposed to be good, but they didn't roll like they should have. I am reluctant to use car lifters as some have suggested, and if I upgrade to S&S or Woods, then I get caught up in a
tug-of-war with a Woods cam, then what good is that if my mufflers are stock. My headers are stock, no tuner, and so I end up spending $3k to do a lifter replacement when i could have bought a new 2015 Limited marked down $2500.

I look at it like this: MSRP $27,837 minus $2500 is $25,337. If I knew a week ago that I needed to spend another $1000 to $2500 on my old one, I could have made the argument that it got discounted the amount my repairs turn out to be. Does that make sense??
Did you open the cam chest a week ago to see the wear then? `Sounds like you should have done it then.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2014 | 08:01 PM
  #10  
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Tensioners look normal, cam looks pretty close to normal (more like at 80-100k), lifters are shot.

I would replace the lifters at a minimum. Probably all of that stuff since you're in there...
 
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