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Oil drip into breather

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Old Mar 21, 2015 | 09:47 PM
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Default Oil drip into breather

Hey guys,

I got my 107 done and dynoed again with a new intake and exhaust. Problem is the intake I got didnt have any where for the oil vent to go so my crank pressurized and puked into the air cleaner. I ran it for probably 30 minutes before I figured out where it was coming from.... I picked up another filter kit with the back plate that vents into the throttle body.

Now it quit pouring out, but now I'm getting an oil drip from the vent. It went from just vapor in the first 600 miles to a steady drip from the air cleaner where it pooled inside.

Am I not getting good enough vent for my 107? Did I mess up a ring causes my cylinder to pressurize the crank case? I won't be able to do a compression test until I get home with it


Thanks!
Jake
 
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Old Mar 21, 2015 | 10:26 PM
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Too much oil is your problem, take about 1/4 quart out.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2015 | 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Moochoff
Hey guys,

I got my 107 done and dynoed again with a new intake and exhaust. Problem is the intake I got didnt have any where for the oil vent to go so my crank pressurized and puked into the air cleaner. I ran it for probably 30 minutes before I figured out where it was coming from.... I picked up another filter kit with the back plate that vents into the throttle body.

Now it quit pouring out, but now I'm getting an oil drip from the vent. It went from just vapor in the first 600 miles to a steady drip from the air cleaner where it pooled inside.

Am I not getting good enough vent for my 107? Did I mess up a ring causes my cylinder to pressurize the crank case? I won't be able to do a compression test until I get home with it


Thanks!
Jake
===============================

If ensuring oil lvl isnt too high doesnt fix issues with oil from crankcase breather going into air cleaner or intake then you need to remove the crankcase breather from intake system altogether & relocate it using one of the kits avail from DKCustoms. (see link below)

http://www.dkcustomproducts.com/All-...ngines_c76.htm

Also,in some cases you need longer then stock crankcase breather bolts with the holes in them to install DK's external crankcase breather which are avail on ebay or from Kurykyn (SP?) website.

My 09 FLHTCU w-96ci has a SE airfilter that required the .5" longer then stock breather bolts to mount the DK external crankcase breather kit on the SE aircleaner backplate which attaches to the heads with the longer breather bolts that have holes in the center.

The crankcase breather kit uses a small cleanable K&N looking/type chrome filter that you clean every once in a while,take approx 5-10mins tops to do.

The stock chrome oval/football shape air cleaner cover fits over DK's external crankcase breather kit with no problem.

BTW,the motor,airfilter,& intake system in general will benefit from the cooler air significantly extending air cleaner srvc life , intake manifold-throttle body & throttle plate (EFI) -intake valves & combustion chamber will stay a much cleaner without the hot oil mist fumes & blowby from crankcase entering the motors intake system the entire time the motors running really gunking/carboning all those area's esp when the oil mist from crankcase breather is combusted all of which is no good IMHO.

Scott
 

Last edited by wscott; Mar 21, 2015 at 11:03 PM.
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Old Mar 22, 2015 | 08:35 AM
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I checked at our last stop last night while leaning straight up and it was right at the hot full mark..... (Had been spitting for a few hundred miles)

I will keep running it today and see what happens to the oil level and if I keep consuming oil passed the full mark.

Thanks for the replies!
Going from Santa Fe to SoCal today

Jake
 
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Old Mar 22, 2015 | 10:18 AM
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My leaked at the Full line as well. 1/2 way up the stick cold solved it.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2015 | 10:26 AM
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Vent the breather bolts to the ground or a catch can. Oil level may also be a problem but quit running that sloppy sludge into the TB. The best thing about the FM billet airclean is how easy it is to run the vents. A little RTV, some hose & fittings and done.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2015 | 10:30 AM
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Hey Moo,
Here's a great thread showing how to do a couple of by-pass mods. Did mine this winter; not very hard at all. Cost was about $25. Mine resembles the DK product.

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...ncluded-3.html
 
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Old Mar 22, 2015 | 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 03snake
My leaked at the Full line as well. 1/2 way up the stick cold solved it.
Yes this works. 3 1/2 quarts instead of 4
 
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Old Mar 23, 2015 | 08:18 PM
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Yuma to San Diego and up to the south side of Death Valley today.


Looks like I got it right around two ticks from hot/full mark and it has significantly slowed down. It is still slobbering a little but nothing I can't wipe off at gas stops. I wish I had time to make a hose/can setup but were just running too many miles a day. Cruise has been set at 75-90mph and this 107 runs very hard

Jake
 
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Old Mar 23, 2015 | 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Moochoff
Yuma to San Diego and up to the south side of Death Valley today. Looks like I got it right around two ticks from hot/full mark and it has significantly slowed down. It is still slobbering a little but nothing I can't wipe off at gas stops. I wish I had time to make a hose/can setup but were just running too many miles a day. Cruise has been set at 75-90mph and this 107 runs very hard Jake
I've found that running extended periods at highway speeds really makes mine puke.
 
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