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Installed 21" wheel. Now ABS problem?

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Old Mar 27, 2016 | 09:57 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by bsdoig
I am just curious. Did you check tire clearance using a 1/4" nut or something similar?
Yes, we checked the area with a steel bar, but I don't remember what was the diameter. We put it between the tire and the fender and still ran free.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2016 | 10:10 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by bikerlaw
Sorry to hear this. I spent countless posts warning people of the possibility of tire/fender contact when we do a 21 swap. And far more often than not I get responses like..... I just bolted mine on and never had an issue, so I'm gonna stick my head in the sand and pretend this issue doesn't exist. In my case I made some brackets and lifted the fender about 3/4 of an inch. Or you can buy the 1 inch fender lifts, but they make it so lowering the bike can also be an issue. Either way, I hope you get this worked out.
There is little information in Brazil about this change. The dealers do not sell or install. I asked for a budget with three importers, but none of them warned me about the need of the lifter for a bike like mine.

Do you have pics of your fender lift? My plan would raise it 1/2 inch. But now I'm considering 3/4 inch.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2016 | 06:42 AM
  #33  
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[QUextensionsodeserto;14983832]There is little information in Brazil about this change. The dealers do not sell or install. I asked for a budget with three importers, but none of them warned me about the need of the lifter for a bike like mine.

Do you have pics of your fender lift? My plan would raise it 1/2 inch. But now I'm considering 3/4 inch.[/QUOTE]

In most cases brackets like i made are over kill. They are required on the 14 and up. Usually on the 13 and older you can just drill out the rear mounting holes with a 3/8 drill bit, raise up the rear of the fender and your good to go. Other wise ebay has them for sale.

Im on my cell phone so no pics, but i just welded extensions on and repainted the brackets. I would use the one inch chrome brackets if I ever did it again. Or of course try drilling out the rear mounting holes.

Edit, I found a pic. Probablly not much help, but you can see the fender is closer to the trees. If you really zoom in you can kinda see the mounts are longer than stock.
 
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Last edited by bikerlaw; Mar 28, 2016 at 09:08 AM.
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Old Mar 28, 2016 | 09:09 AM
  #34  
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If the problem originates from the tone ring (bearing), it won't set a code because it's not electrical. The module thinks all electrical is good and the bike is just trying to lock up. I would make sure the bearing is definitely for ABS and that it is good. Have you tried to see if there is a constant and consistent signal coming from the sensor while spinning the wheel?
 
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Old Mar 28, 2016 | 10:06 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by cityworker
If the problem originates from the tone ring (bearing), it won't set a code because it's not electrical. The module thinks all electrical is good and the bike is just trying to lock up. I would make sure the bearing is definitely for ABS and that it is good. Have you tried to see if there is a constant and consistent signal coming from the sensor while spinning the wheel?

BACK TO WORK!





Signed, "BossOfCityWorker"

 
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Old Mar 28, 2016 | 12:23 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by cityworker
If the problem originates from the tone ring (bearing), it won't set a code because it's not electrical. The module thinks all electrical is good and the bike is just trying to lock up. I would make sure the bearing is definitely for ABS and that it is good. Have you tried to see if there is a constant and consistent signal coming from the sensor while spinning the wheel?
Do you know what type of signal it would output? Something that could be done with a multimeter?
 
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Old Apr 5, 2016 | 11:48 AM
  #37  
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We tested the signal and the sensor position. We could not find anything wrong.

Tomorrow we will replace the bearings.

The fender lifters were finished today. I have to decide if I will paint or chroming it.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2016 | 12:02 PM
  #38  
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I may have missed it but what is the year of the bike? Any of the bikes equipped with the reflex-linked brakes have issues when going to a 21" front wheel. You do have a couple of options. Thunder Max makes a module called the Trac Max which calibrates so the linked brakes/abs will work correctly. Now MC Baggers has a bearing that does the same thing but much less expensive. They make a bearing for the 21", 23", 26" and 30".

The fender rub sucks! Someone gave good info as drilling out the rear two mounting holes with a 3/8" drill bit. We do this on every install we do (2013-older) and I send an instruction sheet with every wheel is send out (2013-older).
 
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Old Apr 5, 2016 | 12:17 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Coastal_Moto_Man
I may have missed it but what is the year of the bike? Any of the bikes equipped with the reflex-linked brakes have issues when going to a 21" front wheel. You do have a couple of options. Thunder Max makes a module called the Trac Max which calibrates so the linked brakes/abs will work correctly. Now MC Baggers has a bearing that does the same thing but much less expensive. They make a bearing for the 21", 23", 26" and 30".

The fender rub sucks! Someone gave good info as drilling out the rear two mounting holes with a 3/8" drill bit. We do this on every install we do (2013-older) and I send an instruction sheet with every wheel is send out (2013-older).
Thanks!

My bike is 2011.

http://mcbaggers.com/product/ar14-21/

Does this bearing is compatible with DNA wheel?
 

Last edited by aguiadodeserto; Apr 5, 2016 at 12:21 PM.
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Old Apr 5, 2016 | 12:45 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by aguiadodeserto
Thanks!

My bike is 2011.

http://mcbaggers.com/product/ar14-21/

Does this bearing is compatible with DNA wheel?

This type of bearing is specifically for the linked brake bikes which started in 2014.
 
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