When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Sorry to hear this. I spent countless posts warning people of the possibility of tire/fender contact when we do a 21 swap. And far more often than not I get responses like..... I just bolted mine on and never had an issue, so I'm gonna stick my head in the sand and pretend this issue doesn't exist. In my case I made some brackets and lifted the fender about 3/4 of an inch. Or you can buy the 1 inch fender lifts, but they make it so lowering the bike can also be an issue. Either way, I hope you get this worked out.
There is little information in Brazil about this change. The dealers do not sell or install. I asked for a budget with three importers, but none of them warned me about the need of the lifter for a bike like mine.
Do you have pics of your fender lift? My plan would raise it 1/2 inch. But now I'm considering 3/4 inch.
[QUextensionsodeserto;14983832]There is little information in Brazil about this change. The dealers do not sell or install. I asked for a budget with three importers, but none of them warned me about the need of the lifter for a bike like mine.
Do you have pics of your fender lift? My plan would raise it 1/2 inch. But now I'm considering 3/4 inch.[/QUOTE]
In most cases brackets like i made are over kill. They are required on the 14 and up. Usually on the 13 and older you can just drill out the rear mounting holes with a 3/8 drill bit, raise up the rear of the fender and your good to go. Other wise ebay has them for sale.
Im on my cell phone so no pics, but i just welded extensions on and repainted the brackets. I would use the one inch chrome brackets if I ever did it again. Or of course try drilling out the rear mounting holes.
Edit, I found a pic. Probablly not much help, but you can see the fender is closer to the trees. If you really zoom in you can kinda see the mounts are longer than stock.
Last edited by bikerlaw; Mar 28, 2016 at 09:08 AM.
If the problem originates from the tone ring (bearing), it won't set a code because it's not electrical. The module thinks all electrical is good and the bike is just trying to lock up. I would make sure the bearing is definitely for ABS and that it is good. Have you tried to see if there is a constant and consistent signal coming from the sensor while spinning the wheel?
If the problem originates from the tone ring (bearing), it won't set a code because it's not electrical. The module thinks all electrical is good and the bike is just trying to lock up. I would make sure the bearing is definitely for ABS and that it is good. Have you tried to see if there is a constant and consistent signal coming from the sensor while spinning the wheel?
If the problem originates from the tone ring (bearing), it won't set a code because it's not electrical. The module thinks all electrical is good and the bike is just trying to lock up. I would make sure the bearing is definitely for ABS and that it is good. Have you tried to see if there is a constant and consistent signal coming from the sensor while spinning the wheel?
Do you know what type of signal it would output? Something that could be done with a multimeter?
I may have missed it but what is the year of the bike? Any of the bikes equipped with the reflex-linked brakes have issues when going to a 21" front wheel. You do have a couple of options. Thunder Max makes a module called the Trac Max which calibrates so the linked brakes/abs will work correctly. Now MC Baggers has a bearing that does the same thing but much less expensive. They make a bearing for the 21", 23", 26" and 30".
The fender rub sucks! Someone gave good info as drilling out the rear two mounting holes with a 3/8" drill bit. We do this on every install we do (2013-older) and I send an instruction sheet with every wheel is send out (2013-older).
I may have missed it but what is the year of the bike? Any of the bikes equipped with the reflex-linked brakes have issues when going to a 21" front wheel. You do have a couple of options. Thunder Max makes a module called the Trac Max which calibrates so the linked brakes/abs will work correctly. Now MC Baggers has a bearing that does the same thing but much less expensive. They make a bearing for the 21", 23", 26" and 30".
The fender rub sucks! Someone gave good info as drilling out the rear two mounting holes with a 3/8" drill bit. We do this on every install we do (2013-older) and I send an instruction sheet with every wheel is send out (2013-older).
Harley-Davidson Fat Boy Becomes a Dark, Decepticon-Inspired Custom
Slideshow: Killer Custom's latest build relies on styling changes rather than performance upgrades, giving the cruiser an entirely different personality.
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.