I'm having a problem with starting on my 2010 RoadKing. I hit the starter switch and nothing. I have power at the switch and kill switch I'm only showing 11.5v. Would a weak Battery cause this problem? I changed the starter relay and nothing. I pulled the plug off the starter solenoid and there's no juice there when I hit the switch. I've read that you need to show 12.7v there. I only show 11.3v at the relay. Any ideas on trouble shooting or would just a bad battery cause this?

 

power at the battery is?

if you don;t want to pull the seat you can check at the wire plug for the battery tender if you have one.

if the battery is duff, you can replace with a

big crank ETX30L from amazon for $106


or a yuasa gyz30hl from amazon at $137



or same battery is $132 from phatperformance.com - call and ask for the hdforums 8% discount...should get down to $123

( i've been shopping batteries, so all the work is done for you)

if the battery is duff, resist the temptation to jump the bike from your car- running the bike with a bad battery will strain the charging system and a $100 problem become s a $600 problem.


if you think the battery can;t be bad...take it out. charge it with a charger fully and load test at autozone

mike

 

Mike I do have power off the battery but it's only showing 11.5v. It seems like there's no power at the stater solinoid. The relay is clicking but nothing at the starter. The battery is old and I will be replacing it right off but would that cause it to be dead at the starter or so I have other problems. This came in quick...bike was running, I blow a fuse for the horn and turn signals. I replaced the fuse and they work now but no start. I know why the fuse blew

 

yes- the battery doesn;t have enough power to do anythingor the power isn't getting to the bike.

you can remove it and bench charge and load test at autozone, you can also check you cables for corrosion ( see pic)

you can damage the starter relay and solenoid by trying to use a duff battery...instead of making contact the points with arc and pit...carboning up. requiring replacement

these are all very very basic & you can make this more expensive if you are careless.





my neighbor spent over $1300 at the dealer on batteries, stators and regulators- I found the problem in 10 minutes- $15 autozone for a new cable.

mike

 

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opps,missed he later posted actual battery voltage.

 

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" I do have power off the battery but it's only showing 11.5v "

Battery is NG if the 11.5v you get is after its fully charged .

So 1st get the bike fired up with same battery (jumping carefully) to 1st chk charge voltage at the battery to ensure you get approx 14v @ battery @ 2000-2400rpm ish.

I rec that 1st because there could be an issue with charge system causing low battery situation.

So if you find charge system issue (bad v-reg & or stator) get the fixed ,recharge battery and go from there to see if bike starts and runs ok.

But if you see proper charge voltage at the battery with bike running as i rec abov & the battery only shows 11.7v when fully charged it's toast needing replacement,then it will likely start ok with a new battery.

BTW,i higly rec yuasa's GYZ32HL 500cc battery from paht perf for $132 inc s&H.

But if you dont want to spend that much my 2nd rec is to get the Deka/BigCrank ETX30L 400cca bettery for approx $13 less inc S&H to your door from HiTech battery (in link directly below) then you can from batterymart .

http://www.techbatterysolutions.com/...?Search=etx30l

I have done a lot research to find the best batteries at the best prices with good cranking power that have already proven to be reliable with a long srv'c life too and the 2 batteries i rec are just that & they are both mfg'd in USA/PA. too.

Yes there are cheaper batteries with some having a longer warranty, but they mfg'd in China with yet to be proven reliability and srv'c life too which the 2 batteries i rec have already proven yr after yr here in hdforums to be high quality motorcycle battery mfg's in the USA at a good affordable price too.

The 2 hi quality batteries i rec blow by the longer 2 yr warranty period some cheaper batteries have with no problem ,but thats as long as the bike they are in doesnt have charging system & other elec issues going on the owner isnt aware of causing battery to go belly up blaming it on the battery when in fact its an issue with the bike.

I have seen/read posts of that happening here in hdfroums from time to time esp when guys post they had been thru a battery every 1,1.5yrs or so and blame the battery when some of those premature battery failures were in fact caused by a mech/elec issue & or lack of maint like letting bike sit for wks/months with little to no use & never putting a maint charger on it to top off the battery charge where onboard systems drain battery to flat dead state a few times trashing it in the process.

Scott

 

I have narrowed this down to there is no power going to the trigger wire... Green wire from the relay. I put in a new relay but still nothing. Kill switch is good, start switch is good. I can't figure this out. I have a ship manual but it's at my camp 4 hrs away. I had a blown fuse P&A that I replaced... Now no start, nothing to the starter

 

Did you check your Ignition fuse? It supplies the 12 V to the Kill switch and start switch.
Look at the drawing, pull the relay and check - with the Ignition on you should have 12V on the R/GY wire to the NO contact. Kill switch on push the start button you should have power to the BK/R wire to the coil.
Good luck