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Issues shifting into 3rd

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Old May 3, 2016 | 11:04 AM
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Default Issues shifting into 3rd

This happened to me twice last night on a short 30 minute ride in town - I would shift into what I thought was 3rd, but I was still in second. It would eventually shift after a couple of attempts.

The only thing that changed from the previous ride was I lengthened the stock shift link two turns to match the length of a Kury link that I removed. When tightening the bolts, I make an effort to always hold onto the shift lever for fear of straining something in the transmission when tightening the bolts. Is it possible I damaged something in the transmission? Maybe I need to get used to the new lever location (forward controls)? I felt the normal click during the shifts, it just missed the gear.

There are no noises coming from the transmission during operation.
 
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Old May 3, 2016 | 11:19 AM
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It's pretty hard to mess up the shift paw as its spring loaded. You may need to ajust it it's kinda of a pain to get right. I ended up going with a Baker paw & shift drum as I couldn't get stock to work right after several attempts to ajust. The Baker paw is easer to find the center. The drum is wicked easy to find neatral, the only gear that is not like butter is first. It's basically a total rebuild to get the shifter paw out though. The shift drum(cam) can be changed just by the top cover coming off. Not sure of your year.
 
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Old May 3, 2016 | 11:38 AM
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Sorry, '13 street Glide. Thanks for the info, I'll play with adjusting the rod if it happens again.
 
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Old May 3, 2016 | 01:23 PM
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As long as the shift pegs don't touch the floor when shiftting your good. the shifter paw is inside the trans that can cause issues the book says it can be the cause of most shifting problems if not set right.
 
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Old May 3, 2016 | 01:50 PM
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dont see where you say if this is a 4,5 or 6 speed.

Basically as stated above, you usually have a spring loaded pawl than hooks a pin in the shifter drum and when you shift the pawl pulls the drum to the next indent. There is a plunger at the drum with a spring loaded detent that falls into pockets to keep the drum from continuing to roll and keeps the transmission forks over the gears in the ideal location.

So any time you change the shifter rod or rod ends you need to confirm the new setup will take the shift pawl a full stroke. Make sure the shift mechanism goes full stroke before the pedal bottoms out on anything in both directions.
 
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Old May 3, 2016 | 04:55 PM
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Ck out cwsharps thread today
 
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Old May 3, 2016 | 05:31 PM
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Grease your shifter shaft and shift linkage.
 
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Old May 3, 2016 | 05:45 PM
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savagechopper, make sure your shifter linkage is directly parallel front linkage to the rear, meaning center if it has a slightest strain on the rear link to trans it will not shift correctly into 3rd. you can check it by disconnecting the rear linkage and shift it directly
 
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Old May 3, 2016 | 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by breal916
savagechopper, make sure your shifter linkage is directly parallel front linkage to the rear, meaning center if it has a slightest strain on the rear link to trans it will not shift correctly into 3rd. you can check it by disconnecting the rear linkage and shift it directly
I'll check it out. I rode today with a different pair of boots (thinner toe area) and didn't have an issue. Embarrassed to say, it may be that I have to get used to my new boots.
 
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