Stage 1 Help
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14,143
Likes: 11,211
From: San Diego, CA
PS- The Harley download the dealer will try to sell you is just a tad better than useless, it is NOT a good tune. Most who don't feel a difference are probably running the HD download for their tune...
Last edited by hattitude; May 7, 2016 at 09:25 AM.
Banned
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,036
Likes: 67
After doing 3 stage ones, I personally don't see a big increase in performance. I know a lot of people say they do, but I've concluded that's just a way to justify all of that cash they just spent for a little bit of nothing. That's just me. I just did on my 2015 back in November. Spent a lot less this time cause I researched the hell out of it. Most noticeable thing is the sound and the bike runs a little cooler, but it's all relative. It's not a HUGE difference.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 6,129
Likes: 143
From: Santa Cruz
+1 Air cleaner is a waste on '14up stage 1. Very little performance gain removing cat on stage 1. Biggest gain would be a proper X header, especially if ya plan cams. All ya get changing slip-ons is sound/noise with late model stage 1. Again ya will feel a proper tune.
Road Master
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 905
Likes: 51
From: New Jersey
It's just my opinion. You're all entitled to yours. I'm good with the tuner at this point. It's just not enough difference in my opinion to justify the cost. Now, as someone said here, a good tune on a stock bike makes a difference. Assuming that's the case, then yeah for the price of an Auto Tuner, I would say okay. But after the cost of the pipes, stage 1 breather if you do that (I just did a K&N filter), I just don't feel like its worth the bucks. I have a good solid tune running right now.
To answer your question about the RPM, yeah I've been up around 4,000 to 4,500 at times. If you look at the FuelPak3, you see the various cells and throttle position mappings on the chart. The tuner learns how how the bike is running in those cells and the object is to turn those cells from orange/yellow to green as the tune is optimized in those ranges. So, you really have to get on the bike to optimize the tune at those higher RPMs. Going above 3,000 is unavoidable if you want to optimize the tune. In my normal riding, I go above 3,000 often when I'm playing around and getting on it, but I try to maximize my fuel economy so I don't do it a ton. My bikes running very well right now. This is all just my opinion. Not say'in it's the gospel
To answer your question about the RPM, yeah I've been up around 4,000 to 4,500 at times. If you look at the FuelPak3, you see the various cells and throttle position mappings on the chart. The tuner learns how how the bike is running in those cells and the object is to turn those cells from orange/yellow to green as the tune is optimized in those ranges. So, you really have to get on the bike to optimize the tune at those higher RPMs. Going above 3,000 is unavoidable if you want to optimize the tune. In my normal riding, I go above 3,000 often when I'm playing around and getting on it, but I try to maximize my fuel economy so I don't do it a ton. My bikes running very well right now. This is all just my opinion. Not say'in it's the gospel
Last edited by slowrollin; May 7, 2016 at 08:16 AM.
Living proof there are as many opinions as A*******. You want to de-cat? Bike will run cooler.... and louder. You want to change the OEM muffler? Chances are your bike will be louder. As for your A/C? Your intake will only take in so much air. I agree with the others that recommend a good tune and fuel management system.... with or without the new A/C and tubes.
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