I've watched every YouTube video and read just about every thread on this forum about installing apes and it's about Go Time. I have tried to prepare for as much as I can, but please tell me if I've forgotten anything. Here's what I've purchased so far.

Yaffee 12" Monkey Bars (I hope you guys are right about getting the next size taller than you think you want. I ordered the 10's and an hour later cancelled and reordered the 12's. I'm 6' so I should be fine)
SE throttle by wire ***'y
Poly Bushings
Harley Oil Temp Gauge (might as well do it now while the fairing is off)

This is for my 2013 Ultra Classic WITH ABS so I know I'll need to replace the clutch and brake cables, but thought I'd get the bars on and then measure what length I need. Anyone have these bars on a '13 or earlier Ultra that could share what length you used? I also know I'll need the wiring kit that extends all the wiring except the TBW.

Technically the only brake line I need is the one that goes from the ABS module to the master cylinder. I don't think I'll get the kits that have all the front brake lines unless there is a reason to do otherwise? Any recommendation on cable brands? I'm thinking about the Magnum Shielding Black Pearl?

From what I understand, the ABS shouldn't be an issue as long as I pull the main fuse and if I can't get them completely bled correctly I can limp it to the dealer where they put it on a machine where it pulses all of the air out of the lines.

BIG QUESTION: When replacing the clutch cable on an Ultra do you have to pull the exhaust off to take the cover off for the new cable? I sure hope not?

Is the oem top mount bracket for the new bars good enough to reuse or do I need to get one like Yaffe offers that has the 3 set screws? I don't know if the Yaffe bracket only works for the 2007 and older? I also heard Harley makes one. Do I need it?

I know this is a lot of questions and appreciate your help in advance.

 

I have a 12 street glide and did mine last year. The clamp is fine, there is no need to replace it.
I used magnum shielding sterling chromite cables, mine are 6" longer brake ( I don't have abs) and 8" longer clutch cable, I had to lube the cable even though they say you don't have to.. I routed everthing the way it was from factory.
If you have stock exhaust you can take the heat shield off, and with a ball allen wrench you can get the bolts out of the cover. It is very close, but I did it. If you put the wheels on blocks of 2x6 and leave it on the jiffy stand you wont lose much oil when you take the cover off.
The bars are fantastic, but a real pita to internally wire, take your time fishing the wires through. BTW, I'm 5'10" and the 12's are perfect.

 

I have a 2012 limited and went with the 10" MBB's and they work for me. the 12" would have been alright in hind sight.

Anyhoo, If i remember correctly I didn't have to take off the exhaust but it was a challenge going around it to get the cover off (but it is doable).

I also went with the black pearl clutch cable and in hind sight would have gone with a longer black stock cable cuz the black braiding on the cable is nice but covered with a clear outer shield that does tend to fade and wear (at least mine are.

I think I used the same company for the brake line extension as well. With the 10" MBB's I went +4 on both. They worked fine but I think an inch or two more would have been better. The MBB's tend to be a little taller than other bars that claim to also be 10" or 12" high.

I also went with the one peice handlebar clamp just because and it wasn't that expensive (better safe than sorry).

I also did the poly bushings. Don't expect them to be super rigid or eliminate all vibration. I used them mainly 'cuz that was what most people recommended (again, better safe than sorry).

The SE TBW probably also saved me a bunch of headaches (from the dreaded green connector) so I think thats the right way to go.

The biggest PITA (as you have probably already read about) is getting all those wires fed over the sharp corner in the MBB's. The key is to bundle all those wires together as tight as you can (especially the right side) with some good quality shrink wrap tubing (not the thin cheap stuff at harbor freight). If you are making any splices for extensions make sure to stagger them so you don't end up with a big buldge in the middle of your harness. Try to get the wires to taper down to a point at the end that you feed down the MBB's.

Weed eater line and electrical tape is what I used to fish the harness through the bars. Worked for me.

That, and a lot of lithium grease (other options out there), gradual pushing and pulling and a **** ton of patience! Take your time.

The only problem I had was I swapped a couple wires in the connector. Once I resolved that (after finding I had no throttle response) all was good and I've put thousands of miles on these bars since with no (knock on wood) problems at all.

Sounds like your on the right path.

Have fun!

 

Oh, and I also did the oil temp gage at the same time like you're planning.

Good investment and way more useful.