No rear brakes?!?
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Joined: Dec 2014
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From: oklahoma
No rear brakes?!?
The other day while riding to work I exited the hwy. As I came to the stop sign I had NO rear brakes. Brake peddle went all the way down. I tried pumping them up but no go. Thank goodness for front brakes. Tonight will be the first time I actually have time to mess with it. I am wondering if it could just be air in the lines and needs to be bled. I should mention that several months ago my rear caliper locked up and my brakes overheated and actually caught fire. I replaced the caliper and pads and its been fine until this incident.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
Glen
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
Glen
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
look for where the fluid is leaking- on some models 09+ the rear brake light switch was recalled for leaking after heat damage from the exhaust
after a failure like that- I'd consider rebuilding everything, caliper, master cylinder, lines....
mike
after a failure like that- I'd consider rebuilding everything, caliper, master cylinder, lines....
mike
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Joined: Dec 2014
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From: oklahoma
Thanks. I haven't noticed a leak and honestly haven't checked the fluid level yet. I will check that tonight and attempt bleeding the system. If that doesn't work I will rebuild or replace the parts mentioned.
Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2008
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From: currently an Okie
Brakes
Did you use the right Dot fluid when you replaced the caliper?
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Joined: Dec 2014
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From: oklahoma
Yes buuuuut. And this might be the issue. I did not flush the system like I probably should have :-(
I personally would not worry about the master cylinder or the lines. If you are low on fluid, find out where it is going. If it makes you feel better, rebuild everything, but I don't see how it could do you any good.
Did you use the right Dot fluid when you replaced the caliper?
Did you use the right Dot fluid when you replaced the caliper?
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Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Bay Area
From whatI just read here I would rebuild everything like Mike said. If there is no external leaks, my suspicion would be the master bypassing the piston, remember back when you said it got so hot it caught fire and locked up? I'd say that superheated BF killed the seals in the MC. Just an educated guess from what you posted. IMO, I would go for lines this time also, after all it's 11 years old that had a catastrophic brake system failure, don't forget the switch too.
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Joined: Dec 2014
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From: oklahoma
What is the switch and where is it?
From whatI just read here I would rebuild everything like Mike said. If there is no external leaks, my suspicion would be the master bypassing the piston, remember back when you said it got so hot it caught fire and locked up? I'd say that superheated BF killed the seals in the MC. Just an educated guess from what you posted. IMO, I would go for lines this time also, after all it's 11 years old that had a catastrophic brake system failure, don't forget the switch too.
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Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Bay Area
If you follow the rear MC to the rear brake, it's usually just below the trans fill plug area on the rear steel brake line there's a tee type fitting. The switch will have 2 wires on the top of it.
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Did you ever find the cause of the caliper "locking up?" That is not a problem that normally occurs without a problem somewhere in the system. It is possible the master cylinder did not release pressure, causing the caliper pistons to stay extended causing the overheating. Its entirely possible the master cylinder is your problem again.
I would rebuild or replace that master cylinder AND replace the rear brake hose for sure. Put speed bleeders in so you can bleed it easily and flush the lines every year.
Also if you did not replace the rotor at the time, change it now too as it has to be severely warped from the heat which will cause it to push back the pistons, requiring a longer brake stroke or even pumping to get the brakes to work.
I would rebuild or replace that master cylinder AND replace the rear brake hose for sure. Put speed bleeders in so you can bleed it easily and flush the lines every year.
Also if you did not replace the rotor at the time, change it now too as it has to be severely warped from the heat which will cause it to push back the pistons, requiring a longer brake stroke or even pumping to get the brakes to work.
Last edited by Guntoter; Jul 4, 2016 at 06:21 PM.
