When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So if you haven't had your bars off and didn't break the switch then it's probably a combination of excess play and master cyl return plunger not returning all the way.
Long answer, rebuild your master cyl.
Short answer, put a dab of JB Weld on the tit to build it up and eliminate the excess play.
I went with the short answer, took less than 5 minutes and worked fine.
Jim
If it's the master cylinder not returning completely then it needs to be rebuilt. Alterinng the switch or lever to compensate for a sticking master is a bandaid that could cause excessive wear to brake pads and rotors. In extreme cases it could even cause front brake failure.
If the extra play is due to a broken switch, JB Weld or one of the other diy fixes is will work nicely.
Trying to piece information together...
You say that the front switch clicks the relay.
If the front switch clicks the relay then the front switch is operational.
BUT, BUT, BUT
You do understand that the front switch works backwards of most logic and it is ON when OUT and OFF when pressed....to repeat ON when out and OFF when pressed.
If the lever is removed the switch will be constant ON.
When the lever is installed and relaxed the switch is pushed IN/OFF
When the lever is pulled the switch is OUT/ON
If the tip of the switch is missing/broken then the handlebar brake switch will remain in out/ON position....again it works backwards of usual logic.
It is very common to break the tip on the handlebar brake switch if a wedge was not used during a lever or grip change if the cardboard wedge was NOT used..
You say that the rear switch was disconnected but the light stayed ON.
To be clear..you do understand that the rear tail light is always ON and then gets brighter with the brake applied correct?
I think you are confused on the operation of the front switch.
You can do a visual on the rear bulb by looking at the two filaments.
Your test of the wires at break switch is difficult to understand..
If it's the master cylinder not returning completely then it needs to be rebuilt. Alterinng the switch or lever to compensate for a sticking master is a bandaid that could cause excessive wear to brake pads and rotors. In extreme cases it could even cause front brake failure.
In theory yes but I have yet to come across a thread where the complaint is "my brakes are dragging, why?" Usually a dab of JB Weld 1/16" thick solves the problem IF the tit hasn't been broken off.
But yes the correct solution would be to rebuild the front Master Cyl.
IM, that's a great description. A lot of people have a hard time getting their head around the fact that in a resting state the tit is depressed keeping the brake light off. So the minute you get a little freeplay the tit is no longer depressed and the light comes on.
Mine was just borderline, at idle it would vibrate the lever just enough to make the brake light fllicker.
What tabs? A picture would help. There's usually 2 screws.
Looked like tabs to pull the bulb out, but I got it think.I have to replace either the bulb or the bulb connector. Not getting a good connection. Thanks fir the help.
Have you tried removing the brake light relay? If the bright filament goes out at removal, there is an internal problem in the relay or the relay is being triggered continually and the click you are hearing is not the brake light relay. If the bright filament stays on you are getting power fed to brake light "down stream" from the relay and may have two wires rubbed together making their own circuit. As someone above mentioned, are you positive what you are seeing is the brighter brake light or might you be seeing the always on running light, with the brake light function inoperative or the bright filament burned out. Have you never removed and reinstalled an old fashioned metal base automotive tail light bulb?
we had a problem with my buddies rear break light. it just would not work.
we replaced the rear break light socket. it cost like $20. fix the problem.
when we bought this replacement, parts department guy said harley had problems with these sockets.
In theory yes but I have yet to come across a thread where the complaint is "my brakes are dragging, why?" Usually a dab of JB Weld 1/16" thick solves the problem IF the tit hasn't been broken off.
But yes the correct solution would be to rebuild the front Master Cyl.
IM, that's a great description. A lot of people have a hard time getting their head around the fact that in a resting state the tit is depressed keeping the brake light off. So the minute you get a little freeplay the tit is no longer depressed and the light comes on.
Mine was just borderline, at idle it would vibrate the lever just enough to make the brake light fllicker.
Jim
I JB Weld a small piece of plastic onto the end of the switch.
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.
