Engine swap or work on orig. Motor
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Cruiser
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 155
Likes: 4
From: Douglasville, Ga.
Engine swap or work on orig. Motor
Posted a few weeks back on here about having my current 96" motor on my current ride, 2008 E.G. Classic/FLHTC, which is stock except for S.E./CVO 255 cams, V&H breather & filter, SESPT tuner, & slip-ons with 2" baffles bumped to a 103 with a S.E. big bore kit, & re-doing the stock heads, mainly due to the high miles, 107-K+ on the current stock set up. Seen a deal over the weekend where an H.D. dealer is selling a 2016 103 take-out engine that came from a customer of theirs who had them install a 120 engine before taking delivery of his new 2016 bike. They're asking less than 3-K for this new motor, it's the air cooled, not twin-cooled engine, the question is if I go for this will the parts from my 2008 96" bolt on to this 2016 103 like the throttle body, primary, tranny, exhaust, etc., or should I pass on this, and do the work on my 96" as I orig. planned.
Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 160
Likes: 14
From: North of Denver
$800 on head work, $200 on cylinder boring, $350 on pistons and rings, $400 on cams and bearings, maybe add lifters & adjustable pushrods (~$2k)...103 or 107, as opposed to starting with a OEM 103 that still needs headwork and cams, lifters etc..
A new map and tune will be needed, so that cost is the same either way.
I'm not sure if a 2016 would bolt right up and even if it does, sensors and connectors being read by an older ECU/ECM may be a mis-match (thinking knock and MAP).
A new map and tune will be needed, so that cost is the same either way.
I'm not sure if a 2016 would bolt right up and even if it does, sensors and connectors being read by an older ECU/ECM may be a mis-match (thinking knock and MAP).
Last edited by GibsonSG; Dec 12, 2016 at 11:24 AM.
Road Captain
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 566
Likes: 70
From: The Redneck Riviera
Posted a few weeks back on here about having my current 96" motor on my current ride, 2008 E.G. Classic/FLHTC, which is stock except for S.E./CVO 255 cams, V&H breather & filter, SESPT tuner, & slip-ons with 2" baffles bumped to a 103 with a S.E. big bore kit, & re-doing the stock heads, mainly due to the high miles, 107-K+ on the current stock set up. Seen a deal over the weekend where an H.D. dealer is selling a 2016 103 take-out engine that came from a customer of theirs who had them install a 120 engine before taking delivery of his new 2016 bike. They're asking less than 3-K for this new motor, it's the air cooled, not twin-cooled engine, the question is if I go for this will the parts from my 2008 96" bolt on to this 2016 103 like the throttle body, primary, tranny, exhaust, etc., or should I pass on this, and do the work on my 96" as I orig. planned.
If the price is too high / no warranty, then I would consider just freshening up the current motor,, as long as the Crank is good...
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 4,998
Likes: 877
From: Iowa
$800 on head work, $200 on cylinder boring, $350 on pistons and rings, $400 on cams and bearings, maybe add lifters & adjustable pushrods (~$2k)...103 or 107, as opposed to starting with a OEM 103 that still needs headwork and cams, lifters etc..
A new map and tune will be needed, so that cost is the same either way.
I'm not sure if a 2016 would bolt right up and even if it does, sensors and connectors being read by an older ECU/ECM may be a mis-match (thinking knock and MAP).
A new map and tune will be needed, so that cost is the same either way.
I'm not sure if a 2016 would bolt right up and even if it does, sensors and connectors being read by an older ECU/ECM may be a mis-match (thinking knock and MAP).
Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,759
Likes: 153
From: On a Large Sandbar, NY
Should bolt right up, but I would rebuild the original engine as others have said..it seems to have been reliable for you so why not just re-fresh it...that would be the way I would go.
Road Master
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,196
Likes: 14
From: connecticut
You can purchase very low mileage take out engines for 2000 if you shop around. The last 103 I got for 2000 shipped with less than 1000 miles on it.
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Tourer
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 373
Likes: 90
From: australia
If the low mileage 103 is a simple bolt in on your 2008 model, (this will have to confirmed other that internet chat),, In my opinion it will all depend on what you can buy the 103 for... If it can bought for $2000, or a touch under, I would seriously consider that route...
You can install the se255 from your old bike and save some money while the motor is on the bench , and also use the original pushrods and save some money there..
Now if you can only get the 103 for $3000 , its a toss up whether to freshen up the old motor .... My advice is to bargin hard on the 103 take out, and do your maths..
.....
You can install the se255 from your old bike and save some money while the motor is on the bench , and also use the original pushrods and save some money there..
Now if you can only get the 103 for $3000 , its a toss up whether to freshen up the old motor .... My advice is to bargin hard on the 103 take out, and do your maths..
.....
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Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
With that mileage whatever you do to refresh your bike, either rebuild or replace, you will have other costs to take into account, such as primary chain and cempensator, due to wear, possibly clutch. With a rebuild it should be possible to exceed the performance level of a stock 103" and still have spare cash left over.
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