Front motor mount alignment
#1
Front motor mount alignment
I have searched on the forum and online and haven't been able to find an answer to my question. (Bike is a 2012 FLHTK 55K on it.) I have a vibration in my bike at 3000 rpm when running in 6th gear. It goes away if I disengage the clutch. I think I may have found a problem with the front motor mount. It isn't aligned like it shows in the service manual. I assume that the mount is worn out from the mileage on the bike. It is noted in the service manual that the mount needs to be aligned but it doesn't spell out how this is accomplished. I'm hoping someone here has done this procedure and can enlighten me. I do have an extended warranty on the bike but, I like to figure out the problems myself when I can.
The service manual shows an even gap on the front and back of the bolt. It also notes that adjustment in the vertical plane can't be done.
Here is a picture of the right hand side front mount on my bike. You can plainly see there is no gap to the rear of the bolt and lots to the front.
The service manual shows an even gap on the front and back of the bolt. It also notes that adjustment in the vertical plane can't be done.
Here is a picture of the right hand side front mount on my bike. You can plainly see there is no gap to the rear of the bolt and lots to the front.
Last edited by Boomer1143; 01-28-2017 at 06:28 PM.
#2
#3
There at two mounting bolts under the engine that you can loosen that will give you a little adjustment. Be sure you pull the left side footboard and jiffy stand so you can inspect the left side snubber etc.
What ever you do, do not remove the center hex without having the engine supported (jack). Do not pry on the "snubber" which really is a shaft pressed into the interior of the mount without the hex bolt in and tight as the shaft will break off. Yes, you can pry on it lightly (left to right) WITH the hex bolt installed...
So... loosen the two bolts under the engine and lightly pry on the snubber left to right to center it. Then retighten the two bolts. After, with bike straight up, loosen the top engine stabilizer mount (engine side) and make sure it is not side loaded. If side loaded (engine pressing against it hard) it will introduce a ton of vibration into the frame which you will feel every where.
If none of that works, with the bike straight up, loosen the front two under the engine mount bolts, the exhaust, and then loosen the rear belt and engine mounts - check a manual - then move the engine around as much as possible to get the front snubber centered and then tighten everything back up.
So yeah, I've been there. Fun times. Good luck.
What ever you do, do not remove the center hex without having the engine supported (jack). Do not pry on the "snubber" which really is a shaft pressed into the interior of the mount without the hex bolt in and tight as the shaft will break off. Yes, you can pry on it lightly (left to right) WITH the hex bolt installed...
So... loosen the two bolts under the engine and lightly pry on the snubber left to right to center it. Then retighten the two bolts. After, with bike straight up, loosen the top engine stabilizer mount (engine side) and make sure it is not side loaded. If side loaded (engine pressing against it hard) it will introduce a ton of vibration into the frame which you will feel every where.
If none of that works, with the bike straight up, loosen the front two under the engine mount bolts, the exhaust, and then loosen the rear belt and engine mounts - check a manual - then move the engine around as much as possible to get the front snubber centered and then tighten everything back up.
So yeah, I've been there. Fun times. Good luck.
Last edited by lp; 01-29-2017 at 07:13 AM.
The following 2 users liked this post by lp:
Boomer1143 (01-29-2017),
Ronald Meyers (12-10-2018)
#4
I know this is a old post. I've done everything to get the front head pipe of my 2into1 to seal in the exhaust port, different gaskets, starting ar the muffler and tighten working to the front, starting at the front working to the back, nothing I do will stop the leak. It's not a big leak, but there is a faint tick.
I started to think that maybe the motor isn't aligned right. After inspecting I noticed that my front motor mount looks yours Bommer1143.
Could this be the cause of my problems with the exhaust
I started to think that maybe the motor isn't aligned right. After inspecting I noticed that my front motor mount looks yours Bommer1143.
Could this be the cause of my problems with the exhaust
#5
There at two mounting bolts under the engine that you can loosen that will give you a little adjustment. Be sure you pull the left side footboard and jiffy stand so you can inspect the left side snubber etc.
What ever you do, do not remove the center hex without having the engine supported (jack). Do not pry on the "snubber" which really is a shaft pressed into the interior of the mount without the hex bolt in and tight as the shaft will break off. Yes, you can pry on it lightly (left to right) WITH the hex bolt installed...
So... loosen the two bolts under the engine and lightly pry on the snubber left to right to center it. Then retighten the two bolts. After, with bike straight up, loosen the top engine stabilizer mount (engine side) and make sure it is not side loaded. If side loaded (engine pressing against it hard) it will introduce a ton of vibration into the frame which you will feel every where.
If none of that works, with the bike straight up, loosen the front two under the engine mount bolts, the exhaust, and then loosen the rear belt and engine mounts - check a manual - then move the engine around as much as possible to get the front snubber centered and then tighten everything back up.
So yeah, I've been there. Fun times. Good luck.
What ever you do, do not remove the center hex without having the engine supported (jack). Do not pry on the "snubber" which really is a shaft pressed into the interior of the mount without the hex bolt in and tight as the shaft will break off. Yes, you can pry on it lightly (left to right) WITH the hex bolt installed...
So... loosen the two bolts under the engine and lightly pry on the snubber left to right to center it. Then retighten the two bolts. After, with bike straight up, loosen the top engine stabilizer mount (engine side) and make sure it is not side loaded. If side loaded (engine pressing against it hard) it will introduce a ton of vibration into the frame which you will feel every where.
If none of that works, with the bike straight up, loosen the front two under the engine mount bolts, the exhaust, and then loosen the rear belt and engine mounts - check a manual - then move the engine around as much as possible to get the front snubber centered and then tighten everything back up.
So yeah, I've been there. Fun times. Good luck.
#6
How can it possibly be anything other than hot and good riding weather in Texas?!
#7
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#8
Before getting up to your posterior in engine alignment alligators I would recommend checking for engine, transmission, or exhaust parts interfering with the frame or something fixed to the frame. The other possibility is something heavy (muffler or something similar) having worked its way loose and vibrating in a harmonic in the rpm range you mention. Have you done anything recently which might change vibration characteristics, new handle bar supports, new piece of equipment?
The following users liked this post:
Ronald Meyers (12-10-2018)
#9
I just took the gas tanks off and the top center mount loose. Nothing is loose that I can see so far. When going over it AFTER I bought it I found one of the tail pipes bracket had broken off the pipe where it was welded on. I welded it back. I'll look at what all you said tomorrow thank you.
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