Front Mount Replacement.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,252
Likes: 142
Front Mount Replacement.
Lately I have noticed a little more shake in my 03 RKC. I inspected the front motor mount and it was old, cracked and split. Simple fix and only took a little over an hour. Now of course the running boards shake. It seems like it is worse although the motor doesn't rock as much at idle visually. This is the procedure I did.
1. I removed the voltage regulator
2. I removed the main center bolt and two side bolts that bolt the mount to the frame.
3. I loosed the mount plate from the block but didn't remove it. I Did NOT touch the dog bone.
4. With a small scissor jack, I gently raised the engine just enough to remove the old mount.
5. I installed the new mount and put the bolts in all the holes. They were loosed and not binding.
6. I snugged up the two bolts that hold the plate to the block then started the bike to let everything seat in. The jack was removed before starting so the engine was sitting on the mount.
7. Online it was suggested I used a ratchet strap around the rear cylinder an tighten it to pull the engine ahead ever so slightly to put tension. I didn't notice any movement so I then snugged the mount down on the frame. The bolts all were loose and flopping around so I assumed it seated and found where it wanted to be.
8. I tightened the center bolt but prior to snugging it was still loose and easily slid up and down in the mount.
This was the procedure I found on two separate you-tube videos online. I was exact and to the letter with everything double checking. Now the running boards shake. The whole bike seems worse than before. I used a urethane mount. The only thing I didn't do was one of the vids said to snug the center bolt just barely and not tight and to used locktite to hold the nut and bottom washer on. The other vid did not say to do that but to torque it down with 12 foot/pounds.
So what did I do wrong?
Randy
1. I removed the voltage regulator
2. I removed the main center bolt and two side bolts that bolt the mount to the frame.
3. I loosed the mount plate from the block but didn't remove it. I Did NOT touch the dog bone.
4. With a small scissor jack, I gently raised the engine just enough to remove the old mount.
5. I installed the new mount and put the bolts in all the holes. They were loosed and not binding.
6. I snugged up the two bolts that hold the plate to the block then started the bike to let everything seat in. The jack was removed before starting so the engine was sitting on the mount.
7. Online it was suggested I used a ratchet strap around the rear cylinder an tighten it to pull the engine ahead ever so slightly to put tension. I didn't notice any movement so I then snugged the mount down on the frame. The bolts all were loose and flopping around so I assumed it seated and found where it wanted to be.
8. I tightened the center bolt but prior to snugging it was still loose and easily slid up and down in the mount.
This was the procedure I found on two separate you-tube videos online. I was exact and to the letter with everything double checking. Now the running boards shake. The whole bike seems worse than before. I used a urethane mount. The only thing I didn't do was one of the vids said to snug the center bolt just barely and not tight and to used locktite to hold the nut and bottom washer on. The other vid did not say to do that but to torque it down with 12 foot/pounds.
So what did I do wrong?
Randy
Road Warrior
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,936
Likes: 309
From: coastal sc
Lately I have noticed a little more shake in my 03 RKC. I inspected the front motor mount and it was old, cracked and split. Simple fix and only took a little over an hour. Now of course the running boards shake. It seems like it is worse although the motor doesn't rock as much at idle visually. This is the procedure I did.
1. I removed the voltage regulator
2. I removed the main center bolt and two side bolts that bolt the mount to the frame.
3. I loosed the mount plate from the block but didn't remove it. I Did NOT touch the dog bone.
4. With a small scissor jack, I gently raised the engine just enough to remove the old mount.
5. I installed the new mount and put the bolts in all the holes. They were loosed and not binding.
6. I snugged up the two bolts that hold the plate to the block then started the bike to let everything seat in. The jack was removed before starting so the engine was sitting on the mount.
7. Online it was suggested I used a ratchet strap around the rear cylinder an tighten it to pull the engine ahead ever so slightly to put tension. I didn't notice any movement so I then snugged the mount down on the frame. The bolts all were loose and flopping around so I assumed it seated and found where it wanted to be.
8. I tightened the center bolt but prior to snugging it was still loose and easily slid up and down in the mount.
This was the procedure I found on two separate you-tube videos online. I was exact and to the letter with everything double checking. Now the running boards shake. The whole bike seems worse than before. I used a urethane mount. The only thing I didn't do was one of the vids said to snug the center bolt just barely and not tight and to used locktite to hold the nut and bottom washer on. The other vid did not say to do that but to torque it down with 12 foot/pounds.
So what did I do wrong?
Randy
1. I removed the voltage regulator
2. I removed the main center bolt and two side bolts that bolt the mount to the frame.
3. I loosed the mount plate from the block but didn't remove it. I Did NOT touch the dog bone.
4. With a small scissor jack, I gently raised the engine just enough to remove the old mount.
5. I installed the new mount and put the bolts in all the holes. They were loosed and not binding.
6. I snugged up the two bolts that hold the plate to the block then started the bike to let everything seat in. The jack was removed before starting so the engine was sitting on the mount.
7. Online it was suggested I used a ratchet strap around the rear cylinder an tighten it to pull the engine ahead ever so slightly to put tension. I didn't notice any movement so I then snugged the mount down on the frame. The bolts all were loose and flopping around so I assumed it seated and found where it wanted to be.
8. I tightened the center bolt but prior to snugging it was still loose and easily slid up and down in the mount.
This was the procedure I found on two separate you-tube videos online. I was exact and to the letter with everything double checking. Now the running boards shake. The whole bike seems worse than before. I used a urethane mount. The only thing I didn't do was one of the vids said to snug the center bolt just barely and not tight and to used locktite to hold the nut and bottom washer on. The other vid did not say to do that but to torque it down with 12 foot/pounds.
So what did I do wrong?
Randy
Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 118
Likes: 12
I have the same issue on a 02 RKC. I never could get rid the vibration after I replaced the mount. I used whatever the latest version that HD sells (16207-79B?) and I understand that that the material is different than original. I read a lot of complaints about vibration from the newer mounts when I was searching for info before I did mine. Some recommend a Buell motor mount. My installation process was like what you describe above.
Is your urethane mount one of the aftermarket units?
Is your urethane mount one of the aftermarket units?
Road Warrior
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,936
Likes: 309
From: coastal sc
yeah I read all of that also and felt comfortable with the ds mount. I was wrong. I might try the buell mount
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 49
Likes: 1
From: Charlotte NC
I installed the glide pro mount a couple of months ago on my 2004 road king. I love it, my bike had vibrations that would numb the hands after a while. Same procedure you did as far as installing. Tighten center bolt to 8 ft lbs. Website said it may take 300 miles to notice difference but I noticed it immediately.. Best $100 I have ever spent on my bike.
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Tourer
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 498
Likes: 25
From: Hampshire, UK
Polyurethane mount is always going to transfer more vibration, they are stiffer. I have a Clio 172 once which I replaced and engine mount with Powerflex bush - cabin vibrations were crazy, but it stiffened up the gear box movement.
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Tourer
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 270
Likes: 25
From: Manchester, TN. & DeLand, FL.
I have a 02 Road King that I went through this with a year ago. I replaced the original mount with a new Bikers Choice mount and the vibration was worse. Replaced that mount with a Glide Pro and couldn't be happier.
Tourer
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 331
Likes: 27
From: New Brunswick
American Iron mag just did a do it your self article in two recent issues. First one was for the front mount and the second one was for the rear mounts.
I would replace all 3 mounts at the same time because if the front one is bad likely the back are shot too.
I would replace all 3 mounts at the same time because if the front one is bad likely the back are shot too.