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Ok thanks. I actually scavenge the oil after a ride sitting on the bike for about a minute not the kickstand. I also check my oil cold sitting upright in the tire chock. I keep it at 3 dots up the stick on the bike upright scale. I know what the manual says but it never made sense to me letting the bike idle for 1-2 minutes on the stand. We don't ride on the stand lol.
they added on jiffy stand and upright to the dipsticks to satisfy most folks in the garage and the service techs who use lifts to service bikes..I just use the jiffy stand, as long as you check in a consistent manner you'll know where your oil level is and should be
Ok thanks. I actually scavenge the oil after a ride sitting on the bike for about a minute not the kickstand. I also check my oil cold sitting upright in the tire chock. I keep it at 3 dots up the stick on the bike upright scale. I know what the manual says but it never made sense to me letting the bike idle for 1-2 minutes on the stand. We don't ride on the stand lol.
I drain the oil after a ride too while it's hot and mixed up with all the metal particles. Service manual says jiffy stand and I do it on the jiffy stand. It actually says that the cold level should be in a middle of the dip stick so I've been doing it according to the service manual
I believe the requirement to run the bike for 1-2 minutes is to make sure oil fills up the oil filter, but I add oil to the filter before I screw it on.
The only compartment that the oil level check and oil change should be done upright is the primary. Transmission should be done on the jiffy stand according to the shop manual.
Takes about 4.5 qts for the engine and 1 qt for primary/transmission each.
I drain the oil after a ride too while it's hot and mixed up with all the metal particles. Service manual says jiffy stand and I do it on the jiffy stand. It actually says that the cold level should be in a middle of the dip stick so I've been doing it according to the service manual I believe the requirement to run the bike for 1-2 minutes is to make sure oil fills up the oil filter, but I add oil to the filter before I screw it on.
The only compartment that the oil level check and oil change should be done upright is the primary. Transmission should be done on the jiffy stand according to the shop manual.
Takes about 4.5 qts for the engine and 1 qt for primary/transmission each.
I always have been under the impression it is to scavenge as much oil back to the tank as possible, because they calibrate the dipsticks to read the level of oil in the oil tank..if you pull in and immediately shut the bike off and take a reading, it will show lower that the actual amount of oil in the whole system, and people then tend to want to add oil and overfill it....not realizing more oil should have been in the tank to read higher up the dipstick accurately..long winded, sorry
I always have been under the impression it is to scavenge as much oil back to the tank as possible, because they calibrate the dipsticks to read the level of oil in the oil tank..if you pull in and immediately shut the bike off and take a reading, it will show lower that the actual amount of oil in the whole system, and people then tend to want to add oil and overfill it....not realizing more oil should have been in the tank to read higher up the dipstick accurately..long winded, sorry
Probably right. But my experience has been that if cold level is at half stick then hot level is normally almost up to full level mark (maybe 1-2 dots down) even if I check it right after shutting the motor off, so I don't bother. As long as it's above the middle hot it should be good.
Probably right. But my experience has been that if cold level is at half stick then hot level is normally almost up to full level mark (maybe 1-2 dots down) even if I check it right after shutting the motor off, so I don't bother. As long as it's above the middle hot it should be good.
I guess checking oil on our rides is just like how we mod them. Everybody has their own way lol.
Last edited by Cornpipe; Feb 16, 2022 at 05:29 PM.
I'm considering buying (when they have stock!) and fitting a S&S cam chest kit for my 2019 RKS 114 and am torn between the 465c and the 475c. Most of my riding is not in the 5000-6000 rpm range, and I would appreciate the overtaking torque probably more than I would high rev hp.
I like the idle lope that the 475 gives......does the 465 give the same lope?
I'm considering buying (when they have stock!) and fitting a S&S cam chest kit for my 2019 RKS 114 and am torn between the 465c and the 475c. Most of my riding is not in the 5000-6000 rpm range, and I would appreciate the overtaking torque probably more than I would high rev hp.
I like the idle lope that the 475 gives......does the 465 give the same lope?
Go 465c. I was seriously on the fence between it iin the Red Shift.. decided on RS because of a conversation with Dan at Zippers
Let's keep all Road King Special Related topics here.
As a 2017 ROAD KING SPECIAL Owner I Will start posting here as well instead of constantly creating a new Thread or adding Pics to an old thread.
It would be great to see the different colors / mods etc.. all in one place
Let's Get this going.
Was wondering if anybody hates the bars and kickstand. New ape hangers coming. Is there a way I can make the kickstand more accessible without getting on 1 cheek or driving off and letting it come up on its own. This is a real problem for me. Any advice is appreciated.
Was wondering if anybody hates the bars and kickstand. New ape hangers coming. Is there a way I can make the kickstand more accessible without getting on 1 cheek or driving off and letting it come up on its own. This is a real problem for me. Any advice is appreciated.
Congrats on the RKS. They make extended stands or you can get a longer toe stem.
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