WHOA... Those bikes look sweet. That RG hitting them corners holy hell that looks awesome. I could only dream of doing that with confidence on my bagger.
That front end is a lot more than motorcycle metal offerings on that road glide.
Company called mjk built that bike. They used to be building custom choppers under the name mad Jap customs. Now they are entering the preformance bagger scene.
I'm looking Into cush chain drive kits. Looks to be about $600 for a road glide chain drive conversion
Including carbon fibre wheels?! You need to tell us more - we're hanging on your every word....
That front end is a lot more than motorcycle metal offerings on that road glide.
Company called mjk built that bike. They used to be building custom choppers under the name mad Jap customs. Now they are entering the preformance bagger scene.
I'm looking Into cush chain drive kits. Looks to be about $600 for a road glide chain drive conversion
Let me see, could you please qualify your answer? I guess I am missing the part of understanding what you are talking about?
There is no previsions for a Road Glide Nacelle to work because they will not fit with what they have that I can see. I already know of the pit falls. A Road King on the second bike is not proofed that it will fit unlike mine. I can change the trail when manufacturing it in the milling machine designed into the product conception before it was ever made.
I chose not top use an aluminum bottom tree because I wanted to weld in the steering stem and not press it into aluminum (can not weld into aluminum) for rigidity. I use 17-4 PH stainless for it's extra excellent fatigue properties needed in the aerospace industry. Due to its inherent properties it can be designed structurally to far outperform aluminum with a few holes milled into it.
Since I designed it to fit all HD applications from 1986~Current in two different models (1986~2016 & 2014~Current) all with handlebar isolators (forgot about that?) & it to bolt right up to any stock fairing or nacelle. I also required that there is as much clearance between the steering neck and wheel. Having a few holes cut into a 1 1/2" aluminum slab is not the same a structurally designed product that has 5/8" protrusion down from the neck. I make my suspension work for actual road conditions and with the customers approval, increase the stroke for more rebound. This means that there is more room between the fender and the bottom of the triple tree. All thought up before the first line was struck on the drawing.
Bottom 17-4 PH Stainless
Much more strength in an engineered product without the excess weight of a solid slab.
70-71 Aluminum top tree set up for a Road King lock. 17-4 PH Billet 3 piece steering stem.
Not only a far superior design than anything on the market, it is also also was engineered to to not be a hack job so it fits right of the box. There are many running around. Oh, another thing who do you think will re-Valve your Ohlins forks so they will work? No, they do not work correctly out of the box.
Last edited by FastHarley; 11-20-2017 at 01:51 PM.
Howard,. I presume this is you talking on behalf of motorcycle metal.
yes if you know inverted forks then you know you have to re-valve for harley set ups.
I am speaking about the fork selection itself. Yes you offer a great set of forks with your kit. However you and I both know you would not be selling FGR SBK gas pressured, $10k ohlins race forks to anyone . Those forks are extremely expensive and really not many are in that market for that level of fork on a Harley
So to the guy earlier linking your kit saying what that road glide is running you can just pick up off the shelf from your site is not true.
That set up in not on the shelf anywhere. It's a totally custom application for marketing there new business
Most guys now a days get rid of the triple tree coverings anyways. If you keep the triple tree coverings then you need to drill through it or use an offset block to run tbars or a tall riser set up. Plus true to form if you run inverted front end and riser combo, you will probably relocate the gauges anyways to top of bars or top of fairing to be in line of site as tbars or risers block the field of view to the gauge nacel
So what really is the point of keeping the nacelle? So you can run apes? While you can romp around with apes, those "usually" are not the style of bar picked by people who are rocking canyons on there Harley's, most apes are way to wide for an attacking hand and body position for conering and lane splitting minded riders. Ie.... California styled Dyna and California styled baggers for mountain riding and lane splitting in dense traffic conditions.
In no way is my statement denoting you sell an inferior product. My statement means that your website does not offer that level of kit as an earlier poster was eluding to. No body sells that level of kit. It's a one off deal
Here are pictures to reference what I'm talking about
Heavily pricey inverted front end with very,very pricey front brakes.
Here is a riser that works, addressing the stock nacelle concern with road glide. Looks ok....
so now guys are making relocation kits to have a traditional look
11-20-2017, 04:51 AM
Please clarify
