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2011 flhtk sputtering after cam, pushrod, header installed

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Old Aug 11, 2018 | 07:55 PM
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Default 2011 flhtk sputtering after cam, pushrod, header installed

Hi,
I have a 2011 harley ultra limited. I just installed 551 easy start cams from s&s, adjustable pushrods from s&s, cobra power port duals, cobra powerflo air cleaner and S&S 4 in grand national slip ons. The problem I'm having is it accelerates to about 3000 rpm then starts to pop and sputter to about 4000rpm. After 4000 rpm it pops super loud and accelerates to the 5500 and feels like it wants to rip me off the back of it.

I called vance and Hines because I am using a FP3 auto tuner and they suggested the map I'm currently running.
My question is does this sound like I screwed up mechanically or is it the tune? If it sounds like a tune issue would you recommend buying a different tuner (i.e. Power vision, fj, or dyno jet) or taking it to a place that dynos)? If it's mechanical, suggestions on a fix?

Im kinda on a tight budget because I just started a new job and haven't gotten paid yet.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2018 | 08:03 PM
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How old are the plugs?
Did you double check your timing prior to putting it back together?
Is the fuel filter new or has some age on it?
Plug wires good?
Check these out before buying a tuner.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2018 | 08:54 PM
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I'd say mapping. Get it on the dyno. If it was mechanical it wouldn't be RPM specific I wouldn't think.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2018 | 08:58 PM
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From: pontotoc ms
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Don’t know if this would have anything to do with it,but you put easystart cams in a bike with compression releases built in.
if you use easystart cams do you not have to cut them off on the bike
 
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Old Aug 11, 2018 | 09:10 PM
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How does it feel from 2Krpm to 3Krpm, is it smooth power? How does it start, idle and accelerate from a dead stop? At 4K it back fires and then accelerates strong?

One thing I've read from Fuel Moto is that they have experienced significant issues tuning these builds with the big 4 inch mufflers. They apparently don't present much backpressure to the engine and makes tuning difficult. Having said that, one thing to check and confirm is that you have the oxygen sensors connected correctly and not having those connections reversed. Using the stock 12mm sensors?

It sounds like a pretty powerful build and Auto-tune can only do so much with narrow band sensors which translates to mean the base map needs to fairly close as a starting point. If the bike accelerates pretty well up to 3K, and idles/runs well at the lower rpm and also the upper rpm, and is just not right on that middles 3K to 4K range, it sounds like that tune just isn't right. If it was mechanical wouldn't also have a negative effect down n the lower area of the rpm range?
 
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Old Aug 11, 2018 | 09:17 PM
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Brand new spark plugs, replaced them at the same time as putting this new stuff on. Oxygen sensors are in the right holes. The bike accelerates fine up to the 3-4K range and only sputters at 4 and sometimes prevents me from further acceleration until 5 then it backfires and takes off.
As for timing I lined up the dots on the cams and on the gears when I did the chain to spec of manual and s&s directions. I've only auto tuned it on streets with traffic, no open roads or freeways. But even the map sent by v&h gave me the same sputter
 
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Old Aug 11, 2018 | 09:26 PM
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I haven't checked or changed out the fuel pump or filter but after reading the comment above and looking over symptoms. It sounds feasible that it could be just that. I bought the bike a little over 2 years ago and it had 12k miles on it with the original tires and battery... so I'd be safe to assume the original rider didn't change the filter. I'm now at 30000 ish miles
 
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Old Aug 11, 2018 | 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Nick92591
I haven't checked or changed out the fuel pump or filter but after reading the comment above and looking over symptoms. It sounds feasible that it could be just that. I bought the bike a little over 2 years ago and it had 12k miles on it with the original tires and battery... so I'd be safe to assume the original rider didn't change the filter. I'm now at 30000 ish miles
You're a bit shy of the recommendation for changing the fuel filter, but it sure sounds like a good possibility I think.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2018 | 11:52 PM
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The 551 cam really isn't a 4k plus rpm cam. Thats when it dies. It makes all its power down low. I'd say you have a fuel problem, but the pipes, specifically the header, may not match the build. You should be able to tune it to get it close though. When I take something apart, and I put it back together and it doesn't work, I look at what I did first. Double check everything.
 
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