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Clutch replacement

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Old Aug 24, 2018 | 06:38 AM
  #11  
ORradtech's Avatar
ORradtech
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 2,172
Likes: 377
From: Georgia
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Originally Posted by jdbenson1
well it's a 2011 fly 103. Just adjusted it 900mi ago I just had the competitor updated so this kinda sucks I have to open it up again long trip coming up and don't want any problems so the fellows and I will go through it...... left for upper michigan and got into some long grades and it started slipping.. so I ran 5th for a bunch of the time....
If it's slipping in 6th, it's probably slipping in the other gears as well, you just don't feel it. If you're positive you have the clutch adjustment correct and want peace of mind then change the clutch. It's not all that difficult.
I'll second the Energy One +1 kit. I put in their kevlar kit with the heavy duty spring. It works so well that it takes a bit of concentration to make it slip in low speed maneuvers. We mostly ride 2 up and have never had it slip on it's own no matter the load on the bike.
The only downside to the kit is that the clutch pull is harder. Not horrible but if you ride in traffic a lot your forearm will feel it.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2018 | 08:03 AM
  #12  
smat45's Avatar
smat45
Tourer
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 276
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From: Canton, MI.
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Plus 1 on Energy One ++

I used PN # BTX-14
1998 & Later Big twin extra plate kit

"The kit consists of 10 friction, 9 steel plates and a 10% stronger than stock diaphragm clutch spring. Plates should be pre-soaked in the same fluid you will be using in the bike 10-15 minutes. The type of fluids we recommend are any HD petroleum based, non-synthetic, primary oil, as light as possible, or even a good petroleum based motor oil such as 10/40 or 20/50 in weight. You can even use ATF Type F or B&M Trickshift. THE USE OF SYNTHETICS IS NOT RECOMMENDED AS THEY TEND TO CAUSE SLIPPAGE."

I use 10/40

smat
 
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