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Old Nov 18, 2018 | 06:16 PM
  #51  
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lots of speculation, maybe someone with a factory stock motor who had their crank scissor solely due to a solid primary socket can chime in?
 
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Old Nov 18, 2018 | 06:32 PM
  #52  
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Being S&S shows how much Torq to break a stock crank on a video, it is not going to happen.
I think it is around 2500 lbs of twist.
People like repeating crap.
In the Air Craft world, being they are disconnected from the ground vibration is a pretty big concern.
Strongly enough they still run 4 cylinder engines from 70 years ago, all day long around 2500 RPM. Some rated at full power output.!
Not just 3/4 power.
Being a Harley sees full power for a very limited time, has tractor crankshaft, I dont think a little compensator will make it live or die.
Simple as that.
If that is the life preserver for the V twin I think it would be self-destructing a LONG time ago.
Like I said- people have been deleting comps for over 40 years.
No doubt a scissored crank can be found somewhere...
Harley likes to sell parts..Does anyone know about their FKING stage kits?
Tell me again where this rumor starts about needing a comp?
LOL
 
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Old Nov 18, 2018 | 06:39 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by Kingglide549
Strongly enough they still run 4 cylinder engines from 70 years ago, all day long around 2500 RPM. Some rated at full power output.!
I luv my big block IO-540's

 
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Old Nov 18, 2018 | 06:45 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by SkyMaster1
I luv my big block IO-540's
1957 Franklin 210 rated full power all day!
 
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Old Nov 18, 2018 | 07:41 PM
  #55  
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Like most I have been researching this for a while and i can not find one post saying that the lack of a compensating sprocket has cost them a crank , Not one

I will replace mine with a solid if and when it needs replacing

Very interesting to follow , thanks for the post

Dave
 
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Old Nov 18, 2018 | 07:43 PM
  #56  
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Good Luck..
 
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Old Nov 24, 2018 | 04:53 PM
  #57  
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Been installed a week now. My primary chain tensioner was trashed, so that was replaced as well along with my clutch hub and inner primary bearings.

Start ups are crazy fast now, no hesitation at all. It's immediate from the time you press the starter. Didn't notice any difference at all during low speed riding, and no excessive vibration at cruising speeds. No "rocks shaking in a cardboard box" sound anymore at shutdown either.

The only thing I noticed was a more pronounced "whirly" sound from the primary. I believe it's the primary chain tensioner shoe breaking in though, not the compensator sprocket itself. Don't know if that's a "thing", just my guess.

Need some more miles on it, but all seems good so far.

Honestly, with 62k on the clock, if the crankshaft ends up scissoring, I'll just rebuild it to be bulletproof moving forward. I got a sweet deal on the bike, so even with a rebuild I'd be wayyy under the price of a new Road King anyway. Win-win for me.

Appreciate all the comments so far.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2018 | 05:17 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by Torpedo1
Been installed a week now. My primary chain tensioner was trashed, so that was replaced as well along with my clutch hub and inner primary bearings.

Start ups are crazy fast now, no hesitation at all. It's immediate from the time you press the starter. Didn't notice any difference at all during low speed riding, and no excessive vibration at cruising speeds. No "rocks shaking in a cardboard box" sound anymore at shutdown either.

The only thing I noticed was a more pronounced "whirly" sound from the primary. I believe it's the primary chain tensioner shoe breaking in though, not the compensator sprocket itself. Don't know if that's a "thing", just my guess.

Need some more miles on it, but all seems good so far.

Honestly, with 62k on the clock, if the crankshaft ends up scissoring, I'll just rebuild it to be bulletproof moving forward. I got a sweet deal on the bike, so even with a rebuild I'd be wayyy under the price of a new Road King anyway. Win-win for me.

Appreciate all the comments so far.
the slight whirl, is how nine sounds too. With the 32 tooth I cruise at 80 a little over 3000 rpm, and takeoff/low speed manners are even better. This is on a 124 inch 640 cammed breakout. No complains except traction can be a problem😏 glad to hear you are up and running and enjoying it👍
 
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Old Nov 24, 2018 | 08:08 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by Kingglide549
It is the logical direction to go.
Except belt drive is better because you lose 30 lbs !
I'm going to toss the BS flag on that one. LOL....
I doubt the entire compensator, chain and clutch basket weighs in at 30 lbs, so how can a belt conversion lose 30lbs??
 
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Old Nov 25, 2018 | 05:02 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by Roadflyer
I'm going to toss the BS flag on that one. LOL....
I doubt the entire compensator, chain and clutch basket weighs in at 30 lbs, so how can a belt conversion lose 30lbs??
Dont bet too much money on it-
You will LOSE!
Your lil flag lost the war

I weighed all my EVO stuff and the new belt stuff.
The total savings is 30lbs for BDL conversion.
Think about it
chain.
comp.
chain shoe
rear sprocket and clutch for all newer better parts
Which is a belt weighs almost nothing
front pully compared to a big chunk of iron called a compensator.
The rear sprocket for a very light pully and new style clutch

It is enough parts to fill a 5 QT oil drain pan for a car.
Thanx for the conviction on your part without knowing.
 
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