Another dreaded finding neutral post.
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#12
Neutral
The fluid level makes a difference, especially if there is to much in the primary. The linkage and the adjustment also effect how easy it is to find neutral. The stock linkage can get a lot of play in it after the bike gets older and one of the best upgrades is to put a heim joint (rod end bearing) on each end of the shift rod. That will take the slop out and, at least for me, I can feel the clicks into neutral better.
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#15
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#17
Make sure his shift rod between the lever and the transmission lever has free play like it was originally designed. If someone changed it to spherical fittings with a fancy looking aftermarket, that will cause big problems. When you tap the lever up from 1 as it is designed to do, you should not have to go all the way to neutral. As designed, the spring lever inside the transmission will pull it on in.
You need proper fluid and not too much, free play in cable and proper back off at clutch if it's not a hydraulic clutch.. However, if it's not pulling like crazy while in gear with the clutch pulled, it's probably something else.
If it has been changed out to spherical bearings, loosen the nut on both bearings slightly do it is free. See if that fixes the problem. Obiviously, you can't leave it like that. Get the proper loose class bearings. Plastic sleeve ones are too tight.
You need proper fluid and not too much, free play in cable and proper back off at clutch if it's not a hydraulic clutch.. However, if it's not pulling like crazy while in gear with the clutch pulled, it's probably something else.
If it has been changed out to spherical bearings, loosen the nut on both bearings slightly do it is free. See if that fixes the problem. Obiviously, you can't leave it like that. Get the proper loose class bearings. Plastic sleeve ones are too tight.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; 06-15-2019 at 07:57 PM.
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