As my name says, I ride an '07 Ultra. Engine is stock w/ Rineharts, true duals, a high-flo air intake and a PCIII tuner.
The issue I'm having is stalling out when coming to a light. I used to be able to remove the air filter assembly and clean the hell out of the IAC sensor to make the problem go away, but now it seems pretty consistent, even right after a good cleaning.

I have removed the 2 factory blow-by vents and this is all now routed to atmoshphere with a catch can setup, so the blow by shouldn't be an issue. Since installing the catch can setup, the stalling issue has returned so I did bit more digging and reading (on this forum).

Turns out the '07 ECU had a remap issue (TT410) associated with the output signal to the IAC stepper motor, so my problem seems to be a bit deeper than just the oil film on the sensor.

I pulled the tuner and the issue remains, so that's not it.

Heres where feedback from others will help me take the next steps to resolution.

1- My buddy also has a stock '07, although his is a RK. His does not have the stalling problem, so in an effort to help pinpoint the issue on my bike, we are considering a temporary ECU swap from his bike to mine just to see if it resolves the issue or if it continues.
If the stumble continues, then I know the problem is elsewhere; (stepper motor, wiring, fuel, etc).
If this solves the issue, then I know the ECU is the root cause.
-Any issues with swapping his ECU into my bike? They aren't tied to the VIN or any other systems are they?
If the stumble continues with his ECU, then remapping my ECU (TT410) and crossing my fingers would be the next step - although my research has told me that this didn't resolve the issue for everyone.

2- Assuming the ECU is the issue and the remap doesn't solve the stalling problem, there seems to be (2) options.
-Get rid of the PCIII tuner and go with a TTS tuner which can improve all aspects of the system in conjunction with a dyno run. (This is probably $800-$1,000)
-Swap out the stock ECU for Thundermax; which would also need the dyno tune.(This is probably $1,200-$1,400)

Am I missing any options here and does anyone have feedback on the TTS tuner vs the Thundermax ECU?

In any case, I suspect that I'll need to include a dyno tune to fully resolve this.
At least this is happeneing at the end of the season.

 

ECUs do hold the VIN and miles covered amongst other things.

Have you checked the IAC is working properly against the electrical diagnostic manual?

Put a stock air cleaner on and remove the power commander. ECM already holds stock tune I believe as PC is a piggy back device?

 

No, I have not tested the IAC yet. I was hoping that an ECU swap would help identify the root cause.
I already removed the tuner and the issue remains.

What would be the point of swapping back to a stock air cleaner unless I also swapped back to the stock exhaust?
This seems irrelevant, especially since others with completely stock configurations have also posted about this stalling isssue.

 

With an open exhaust and air cleaner the engine will be running lean. Why did you fit the PC III? So putting the stock A/C back on will limit the air and stop the mixture being leaner than it needs.

 

Bike is not running lean, that was taken care of with the addition of the PCIII tuner.

 

2007 - your throttle stop screw has probably backed out.

TT410 was not about computers, it was about the screw.

 

I certainly hope the stop screw is the culprit; it's an excellent point to consider. I had read about it being an issue for others as well, but wouldn't that affect it at all idle conditions?
Upon initial start, the bike idles fine.

All that I could find on TT410 discussed the lookup table and IAC control voltage, etc. and a remap at the dealer being the solution for the '07... I have not actually read it myself (I couldn't find a copy).

Now to find me one of those 5-pointed security bits and my loctite...

 

I believe a .004 feeler gauge between the butterfly and the throttle body will get you going.

 

delete dup

 

Additional research suggests that the IAC module itself is the predominant cause of this issue (especially for the '07 models).
It's only a $50 part, which is far better than a new tuner and/or a new ECU!
Swapping this part out myself will still be cheaper than the hour+ labor for a shop to just diagnose it, and it will be new; so even if it isn't the root cause, I'll be ahead...