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For me, it`s the only way to go. The auto tune works great, but you need to fine tune it with the charts. It`s easy because it shows you the data you need to change to the proper values. Run it 2 to 4 hours and recheck it....Once everything is within the parameters given your done and the bike runs great. Make a change and do the same thing and so on....
ORIGINAL: mainultraclassic
The bike is running better and better............I'm still applying the BLM's every so often and it keeps getting better.
I appreciate all the great information you gentlemen share here. All of my previous bikes have all been carbed EVOs, so I'm not as up to speed with the EFI units. I did some tuning of Ford's EEC-IV ECUs on my Mustangs, but there weren't autotuning options for those. I'm about to do a Stage I on my 07 SG with a Ness Big Sucker, D&D Fatcat w/ quiet baffle, and either a TMAX w/autotune or a DTT TCFI-IID. Right now I'm leaning towards the DTT because it seems that people have less trouble tuning it with a Fatcat than a TMAX and if I decide to go bigger later it has the capacity. Just had a couple of questions regarding the above comments if you gentlemen don't mind answering them. If my assumptions are incorrect or way off, I'd appreciate it if someone could explain it just a little more detail.
[ul][*]Arethe "charts" that you are referring to that it shows you what to changewhatis beingreferred to as theBLMs?[/ul]
[ul][*]I assume that the BLMs are the tables of fuel adjustments that the DTT has generated over time using the autotuning feature?[/ul]
[ul][*]I assume that "applying the BLM" data means that it alters the base map by applying the results of the autotune data so that it autotunes from that as the new set base point?[/ul]
Drel
For me, it`s the only way to go. The auto tune works great, but you need to fine tune it with the charts. It`s easy because it shows you the data you need to change to the proper values. Run it 2 to 4 hours and recheck it....Once everything is within the parameters given your done and the bike runs great. Make a change and do the same thing and so on....
ORIGINAL: mainultraclassic
The bike is running better and better............I'm still applying the BLM's every so often and it keeps getting better.
I appreciate all the great information you gentlemen share here. All of my previous bikes have all been carbed EVOs, so I'm not as up to speed with the EFI units. I did some tuning of Ford's EEC-IV ECUs on my Mustangs, but there weren't autotuning options for those. I'm about to do a Stage I on my 07 SG with a Ness Big Sucker, D&D Fatcat w/ quiet baffle, and either a TMAX w/autotune or a DTT TCFI-IID. Right now I'm leaning towards the DTT because it seems that people have less trouble tuning it with a Fatcat than a TMAX and if I decide to go bigger later it has the capacity. Just had a couple of questions regarding the above comments if you gentlemen don't mind answering them. If my assumptions are incorrect or way off, I'd appreciate it if someone could explain it just a little more detail.
[ul][*]Arethe "charts" that you are referring to that it shows you what to changewhatis beingreferred to as theBLMs?[/ul]
[ul][*]I assume that the BLMs are the tables of fuel adjustments that the DTT has generated over time using the autotuning feature?[/ul]
[ul][*]I assume that "applying the BLM" data means that it alters the base map by applying the results of the autotune data so that it autotunes from that as the new set base point?[/ul]
Drel
Yes...The BLM`s for front and rear cylinders (WEGO IID only)are recorded. You adjust them as needed until the system runs within the operational limits required. Very easy to install, setup and tune. I love it and hope to have something available for my 08 FLHTCU soon...
Hi Steve and Spike, I put in the timing figures from Doug @ Headquarters, runs good but I get a little pinging at about 2800-3000 rpms. How much timing should I take out and at what throttle positions. I'm still trying to learn more about how to use the system. I don't know who is learning faster-- the bike or me but my money would be on the bike. Phil said he had some more info to send me . He may have this in his bag of tricks. Thanks Tim
You did not say, but I am assuming you get the ping under mild roll-ons @ lower throttle positions.... right? If so, then try reducing the values in the advance table that are highlighted in the attached screenshot. Reduce the value in each cell (location) by 2, from what it is now in YOUR advance table. This screenshot is just a file I opend to create the pic.
Keep this in mind:
MAP Value 16 = approx 2% throttle
185%
2010%
22 20%
24 40%
26 60%
28 80%
30100%
If you think I have incorrectly estimated where the ping occurs, than adjust accordingly.
Do it in 2degree setps until it stop, then add 1 until it just starts.... then remove 2 and you should be good!
Just got back from a second run this evening (about 6:30 edt). I didn't notice as much pinging as before, will it also adjust for this? Thanks for the info I'll print off a copy for my files. I kinda like to have paper in hand just in case I can't find it on the forum. And like you said it gets better and better as more runs are made. We have short acceleration ramps here in Statesville, NC. I thought I would see what it would do before I hit the main lane. Is 90 mph pretty good? It sure did feel good to me. Might have done better but highway patrol is sitting on different ramps. Altough I don't think if would matter if I was doing 80 or 120. But damn, It sure felt good! Thanks to all who have helped me with setting up the DTT. TIm
tim,
No it will not adjust timing for you.... That is why it is important to notice where it is happening. RPM and throttle position. You can do what I do to make sure I hit all the positions that are not tuned yet. Use the blue painters tape and put a piece on both the throttle and switches. Mark 0 throttle and full throttle. 1/2 of that is 50 and half of that is 25 and 75 accordingly. Now ride and notice what RPM and position. Enjoy it just gets better.
Just got back from a second run this evening (about 6:30 edt). I didn't notice as much pinging as before, will it also adjust for this?
What's it's doing is adding fuel where needed, so that alone will cut down on the pinging. After it's set the AFR, you have to pay attention to the pinging and then adjust the timing chart as needed in the trouble areas.
That's the step where I'm at right now, but with the weather getting cooler around here................the pinging is gone thanks to mother-nature.
Thanks guys, I'll do a few more runs before I do to much more adjusting on the timing . Hey Steve , are you getting closer to getting it dialed in. I know there is so much more adjustments to be made and am looking forward to seeing how you accomplish this. I like learning as much as I can about my bike so I can adjust as needed Phil gave me some areas to address for pinging. I'll do that next. The next best thing to riding is tweaking on it to see what is needed next, right? Thanks for your support. Tim
Anyone have a Ronco cooking rottissere? Set it and forget it...that's what I want to do when I tune my bike. Can I slap one of these on, go for a ride and have this thing make all the adjustments necessary?
I want to spend my time riding, not putting tape on my throttle grip and making changes after every ride to dial it in. I've losely followed a few of these threads and I was under the impression it made all the adjustments for you.
I just ordered a Rinehart 2 into 1 and thinking of adding a DTT at the same time to save me from another 300 buck dyno.
ORIGINAL: turbo38sfi
I just ordered a Rinehart 2 into 1 and thinking of adding a DTT at the same time to save me from another 300 buck dyno.
Well at least you are pointed in the right direction.
Yes, these system do all of the AFR tuning for you............but you still have to adjust the timing charts to take care of any pinging you might have.
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