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don't pull the clutch in, just downshift using engine braking and don't pull the clutch in until you are about to stall it as you come to a stop
If you are not downshifting, and keeping the engine in power, if you have to move in a hurry you'll be dead in the water.
I've been riding for almost 40 years and I've ALWAYS kept the clutch out for this very reason. As a newer rider, you need to develop the sense (I mean skill) to always be able to apply power to skedaddle in hurry. If something happens where your only "out" is to jump forward or power through a swerve, you won't have the time to first think about what gear you need to be in.
When coming into a red light, I just ease off the throttle and downshift when the RPM drops below around 2,000. If I have cars behind me, I often will touch the front or rear brake to light the brake light. On my Beemer, I had an accelerometer-equipped rear brake light that would light it based on detected deceleration. It is made by Admore and I'm thinking about getting one when I get my Tour Pack squared away.
Which involves no throttle blipping or claims of downshifting better when blipping the throttle.
Yes, I agree with you about matching gearing to the conditions. But thats a different subject than what folk are describing.
There are plenty of folk who think they are spinning up the input shaft of the transmission by blipping their throttle when they pull in the clutch. All theyre spinning up is the outer clutch basket. The claims of a smoother downshift is probably poor clutch modulation on the release.
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