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Yes thats right, not crazy about it, has gone into limp mode on the freeway before. Cleaned the TPS connections & its been fine for 3 years. Always have an American Allen set with me if I ever have that happen on the road again. I guess the twin cam shake eventually wears grooves into the pins.
HD revised the terminal clips used in the ECM connector in late 2010. In technical service bulletin TT418A they go over the issues with the terminals getting a corrosion by fretting and losing connection. If you replace the terminals with part number 72663-11 the problem goes away. I however always push dielectric grease into the connectors to help keep moisture out.
OP a lot of us have been through the scenario you describe. It seems that first the comp gets weak then that kickback trashes the starter clutch. From what I have been told by a few mechanics even though your comp has been upgraded that don't mean it ain't wore out. It may be that someone replaced your comp but didn't replace the starter clutch. On my old 2010 Ultra I had to replace both the comp and starter clutch (I ordered an All ***** unit). Once I did that I never had any of those sounds again.
Your situation may be different from mine, but I can say folks told me to try all sorts of electronic things (even replacing the battery) but none helped. Swapping those two components out chased all those problems away.
HD revised the terminal clips used in the ECM connector in late 2010. In technical service bulletin TT418A they go over the issues with the terminals getting a corrosion by fretting and losing connection. If you replace the terminals with part number 72663-11 the problem goes away. I however always push dielectric grease into the connectors to help keep moisture out.
Yes I had read about that & planned on doing it but honestly its been fine since 2021. It was out in the rain like 24 hrs in Colorado overnight & I think that was the main culprit. Still in the back of my mind though.
OP a lot of us have been through the scenario you describe. It seems that first the comp gets weak then that kickback trashes the starter clutch. From what I have been told by a few mechanics even though your comp has been upgraded that don't mean it ain't wore out. It may be that someone replaced your comp but didn't replace the starter clutch. On my old 2010 Ultra I had to replace both the comp and starter clutch (I ordered an All ***** unit). Once I did that I never had any of those sounds again.
Your situation may be different from mine, but I can say folks told me to try all sorts of electronic things (even replacing the battery) but none helped. Swapping those two components out chased all those problems away.
Good luck.
Certainly could be, I'll hafta look into that as well. From what I could see inside where the starter gear kicks out & grips nothing looked excessively worn or anything but this is my first time inspecting these matters so I'm not really sure.
I've used All ***** products before & everything seemed pretty well made.
I read down through there and didn't see where you took it all apart. Your sprocket may look like this. With Harley's uneven firing and always a little hunting in rpm it makes an uneven sound, sound worse. Doesn't hurt anything but the noise will drive you crazy unless you just ignore it.
Tension (from shim stack) looks fine. It's not going too far up the ramp for your driving style. It's doing its job.
Poor hot starts with kickback throwing the starter gear out is a worn-out battery with low cranking amps dropping voltage so low, that the solenoid drops the contacts out. Or the motor just kicking the weak starter from low-cranking amps? Keeping a battery on a maintenance charger all the time gets a good cold start leaving home. Starting a Hot start with heated leftover fuel vapor left in the intake is different. Put a volt meter on the maintenance charger and monitor those hot starts. If it's dropping battery voltage below 9.7 or so, you need a new battery
Didn't see this post yesterday, I bought a new Big Crank last year. The Duracell Ultra I had was incredible & lasted well over 5 yrs which is a lifetime for our heat. It wasn't dead but u could tell it was gonna go soon so I just went ahead & replaced it. Yes thats a good idea to check the hot start voltage anyway just to be sure. And I do keep her on a tender.
No drips on the garage floor today so thats a plus! Old gasket looked fine so just reused it. I didn't take the whole comp apart I just wanted to inspect it to get a game plan.
BTW do u guys prefer a bar or the block for installation & removal? My manual specifically says no block.
Didn't see this post yesterday, I bought a new Big Crank last year. The Duracell Ultra I had was incredible & lasted well over 5 yrs which is a lifetime for our heat. It wasn't dead but u could tell it was gonna go soon so I just went ahead & replaced it. Yes thats a good idea to check the hot start voltage anyway just to be sure. And I do keep her on a tender.
No drips on the garage floor today so thats a plus! Old gasket looked fine so just reused it. I didn't take the whole comp apart I just wanted to inspect it to get a game plan.
BTW do u guys prefer a bar or the block for installation & removal? My manual specifically says no block.
I had some scrap hard grade delrin used for slide bearing. I custom made two in steps for front and rear sprocket. They barely dented. Older manuals say blocks. Newer says bar. Probably bar is safer and gives a better torque fill.
I always used a bar I made on my Shovelhead with good results so when I got into the twin cam era (skipped Evo completely) I got a bar to fit it as well.
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