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Yes I have linked brakes and yes this loose rotor doesn't probably is much harm while riding but I am not sure why I accept the bike with this defect after spending $25k?
I have to say now I wonder if the issue is on rotor or maybe on wheel itself. My loose rotor is on the right side did anyone experienced same thing on left rotor? This will give me a hope rotor is defective not the whole wheel as I am sure this will be PITA to correct not to mention time. HD quality really went down I swear.
I have an '08 RKC. I had a similar clunk from when I bought it used, 8k miles, with no other symptoms. It handled great and stopped fine. At 40k miles I was rebuilding the forks and decided to check the headstock bearings.
The bearings were toast. I also found that a sloppy weld at the bottom of the neck hit the lower triple tree and would not let the headstock be properly tightened without binding.
I sanded down the weld by 1/16" and touched up the paint. Now the clunk is gone.
I have an '08 RKC. I had a similar clunk from when I bought it used, 8k miles, with no other symptoms. It handled great and stopped fine. At 40k miles I was rebuilding the forks and decided to check the headstock bearings.
The bearings were toast. I also found that a sloppy weld at the bottom of the neck hit the lower triple tree and would not let the headstock be properly tightened without binding.
I sanded down the weld by 1/16" and touched up the paint. Now the clunk is gone.
Drop off the bike at the dealer today. My god these pseudo mechanics are killing me every single time. First they didn't want to accept it as warranty claim. I told them this rotor is out of specs and explain to service writer what is the issue and even showed him what the problem is.
Not sure what this dummy wrote on the papers but I called later on and they said they check thickness, run out and all is fine. No surprise it is fine as this is not the issue as mounting openings on the rotor are too big so I think they check the wrong things.
On top of that they said mechanic cleaned the mounting screws and re-tightened it again even tho manual say you can not reuse same bolts as they have to be brand new when you remove them even once.
I am seriously mentally dying here. This is happening every fu#%^ng time
I go to dealership here in Chicagoland.
If they would give me brand new rotor I would do it myself but this is not why we have warranty and I am not sure why would I pay for component that is simply not manufactured up to specs when bike was build.
Sorry for long rant but I am not even sure how to prepare for this discussion tomorrow when I go there as this is just ridiculous.
If anyone has any idea how to deal with this please share.
Drop off the bike at the dealer today. My god these pseudo mechanics are killing me every single time. First they didn't want to accept it as warranty claim. I told them this rotor is out of specs and explain to service writer what is the issue and even showed him what the problem is.
Not sure what this dummy wrote on the papers but I called later on and they said they check thickness, run out and all is fine. No surprise it is fine as this is not the issue as mounting openings on the rotor are too big so I think they check the wrong things.
On top of that they said mechanic cleaned the mounting screws and re-tightened it again even tho manual say you can not reuse same bolts as they have to be brand new when you remove them even once.
I am seriously mentally dying here. This is happening every fu#%^ng time
I go to dealership here in Chicagoland.
If they would give me brand new rotor I would do it myself but this is not why we have warranty and I am not sure why would I pay for component that is simply not manufactured up to specs when bike was build.
Sorry for long rant but I am not even sure how to prepare for this discussion tomorrow when I go there as this is just ridiculous.
If anyone has any idea how to deal with this please share.
End of the rant 🤯
Curious - how do you know the rotor is out of spec? Presume you're referring to run-out. The spec is .007, below that you will still feel vibration but the MoCo will not replace them, just FYI
Not sure what this dummy wrote on the papers but I called later on and they said they check thickness, run out and all is fine. No surprise it is fine as this is not the issue as mounting openings on the rotor are too big so I think they check the wrong things.
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This seems unlikely, I guess you could compare it to a new from the parts dept.
I posted link to video in post #13 of this tread showing my problem. Issue is NOT runout or bent or anything it is that opening for mounting points where screws go in and this part of the rotor is out of spec/tolerances which makes rotor rotate on the hub even after screws are tighten properly. Video show it at about 1min and 7sec mark.
the reason i asked if you had linked brakes was because I'd had linked brakes on a prior sled and when i hit my rears, I'd hear a little thump or clunk up front as my fronts were engaged...sounds like you dialed in what your issue is already though....good luck with your dealer...all I got to say about them is...."some people's children"
See if there is a new bike in the showroom that has the same brake rotor. See if it moves like yours does. If it does not, bring the service guy over to it and show him that it does not move like your does. Maybe??? they will understand then??
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