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I'm more mad at myself for leaving the ignition on than anything.
Another thought, you might consider having your bike flashed to disable the ignition switch. On the few occasions that I would shut my bike off with the kill switch I would sometimes forget to turn off the ignition switch. (fortunately, me or someone else would notice before it ran the battery down)
Now when I shut off the engine with the kill switch it also shuts off the ignition so it's nearly impossible to leave the ignition on. My ignition switch no longer does anything, but I can still access accessory mode by holding down the switch for the odometer.
I had a kind of embarrassing, self induced, issue yesterday that turned out fine, chalk it up to a learning experience.
I met some people about 30 miles from home, we all drove separately, I took my bike. When I came out of the business roughly 2 1/2 hours later, the other 2 got in their cars and went their separate ways, I hopped on my bike and noticed that my ignition switch was turned on! Bike would not start, of course. I called one of the people back and asked them to bring jumper cables, meanwhile, I got my seat off and started looking around for the pos/neg battery terminals, I'm not sure if many of you have had to do this, they are not right there out in the open on a 2022 Road Glide Special, so anyway, the car and jumper cables showed up, I got to the terminals, another rider pulled in to see if I needed help which I thought was really nice(thank you, again if you're reading this, nice young man!). We talked about whether or not the car jumping my bike should be started, thankfully I was pretty insistent that it should be turned off(I know I read that somewhere), he thought the car should be running. Anyways, with the car turned off, cables attached, the bike started right up. I thanked him and he went on his way. I saw on the way home that I had a check engine light on. I got my bike home and put it in the garage on my battery tender. I came home last night, turned the bike on and the check engine light was still on. I went into the DIAGS, found an ECM code P1608h, I referenced that, low battery code, which makes sense. I'm not sure if this is a code that would clear itself or not but I cleared it anyways. So everything turned out ok. I've had to push start my older, lighter bikes before, but I'm not sure how that would work on an 850 pound road glide in a flat parking lot with plenty of traffic. As I said, I've read about jump starting, but never actually did it before, nor have I ever cleared a code on this bike. I just wanted to share my experience, jumping from a car does work as it should. This morning I found the box for my battery tender and it came with a separate cable that will plug right into to my tender connection, with pos/neg clamps on the other end, that's in one of my bags now. Sorry this post is long- winded, I'm just glad I didn't f&$# anything up.
FYI. If you connect this to your factory tender connection, the black clip will be positive, and the red clip will be negative.
Glad everything worked out. I have one of these portable jump starters for my cars and I carry one on my bike. I have AAA, but this gets me going in about 5 minutes.
Probably the easiest way to get back on the road. It also comes in handy for many other things as well.
If there is a next time, go to the starter just behind the engine, flip the rubber boot up out of the way, attach the positive jumper there. It is a tight fit in there so be careful. Find a good ground for the negative and start the bike. Regarding the push start technique, I tried it with a dead battery, and it was entertaninglly funny but it did not work.
I think this is a good method for bikes where the battery terminals are hard to reach. Carrying a section of rubber sheet from an old inner tube with your tools will provide some insulation when fitting jumper cables in areas that are a tight fit. I used to carry needle nose vise grip pliers to clamp on a small or hard to reach terminal and then put the jumper cables on that.
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