Electrical issues
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Joined: Feb 2025
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Electrical issues
Hello all,
I've been battling electrical issues with my 2006 Street Glide. I had what was thought to be a bad battery when I noticed the it wasn't charging while riding, but had it load tested and was told it was fine. It was an older battery so I replaced and still no charge. I did research and saw that the likely issue could be the stator or voltage regulator. I know almost nothing regarding the electrical side of the bike so I had a friend help me diagnose. I unplugged the stator and he tested the stator and it looked fine, and then voltage to the battery, which showed nothing. We assumed it was the voltage regulator so I picked up a less expensive one and installed. Took about a 20 mile ride last night, and when almost home it stalled during a stop. When I tried starting it, it backfired multiple times but finally started and would only run if I kept the RPM's up. I drove it another mile home and it stalled when I came to a stop again. While riding I noticed the volt meter up between 15-16, but had read they aren't always very accurate. I haven't checked the battery voltage at idle or revved to 2000 rpm's yet as it was late. Wondering if I might be able to get some insight at this point, just to possibly save me time and money. One note, I did installed LED lights around the entire bike, but I'm not sure if that would create an issue. Any help I could get would be greatly appreciated.
I've been battling electrical issues with my 2006 Street Glide. I had what was thought to be a bad battery when I noticed the it wasn't charging while riding, but had it load tested and was told it was fine. It was an older battery so I replaced and still no charge. I did research and saw that the likely issue could be the stator or voltage regulator. I know almost nothing regarding the electrical side of the bike so I had a friend help me diagnose. I unplugged the stator and he tested the stator and it looked fine, and then voltage to the battery, which showed nothing. We assumed it was the voltage regulator so I picked up a less expensive one and installed. Took about a 20 mile ride last night, and when almost home it stalled during a stop. When I tried starting it, it backfired multiple times but finally started and would only run if I kept the RPM's up. I drove it another mile home and it stalled when I came to a stop again. While riding I noticed the volt meter up between 15-16, but had read they aren't always very accurate. I haven't checked the battery voltage at idle or revved to 2000 rpm's yet as it was late. Wondering if I might be able to get some insight at this point, just to possibly save me time and money. One note, I did installed LED lights around the entire bike, but I'm not sure if that would create an issue. Any help I could get would be greatly appreciated.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 17,145
Likes: 6,168
From: SE Michigan
Hello all,
I've been battling electrical issues with my 2006 Street Glide. I had what was thought to be a bad battery when I noticed the it wasn't charging while riding, but had it load tested and was told it was fine. It was an older battery so I replaced and still no charge. I did research and saw that the likely issue could be the stator or voltage regulator. I know almost nothing regarding the electrical side of the bike so I had a friend help me diagnose. I unplugged the stator and he tested the stator and it looked fine, and then voltage to the battery, which showed nothing. We assumed it was the voltage regulator so I picked up a less expensive one and installed. Took about a 20 mile ride last night, and when almost home it stalled during a stop. When I tried starting it, it backfired multiple times but finally started and would only run if I kept the RPM's up. I drove it another mile home and it stalled when I came to a stop again. While riding I noticed the volt meter up between 15-16, but had read they aren't always very accurate. I haven't checked the battery voltage at idle or revved to 2000 rpm's yet as it was late. Wondering if I might be able to get some insight at this point, just to possibly save me time and money. One note, I did installed LED lights around the entire bike, but I'm not sure if that would create an issue. Any help I could get would be greatly appreciated.
I've been battling electrical issues with my 2006 Street Glide. I had what was thought to be a bad battery when I noticed the it wasn't charging while riding, but had it load tested and was told it was fine. It was an older battery so I replaced and still no charge. I did research and saw that the likely issue could be the stator or voltage regulator. I know almost nothing regarding the electrical side of the bike so I had a friend help me diagnose. I unplugged the stator and he tested the stator and it looked fine, and then voltage to the battery, which showed nothing. We assumed it was the voltage regulator so I picked up a less expensive one and installed. Took about a 20 mile ride last night, and when almost home it stalled during a stop. When I tried starting it, it backfired multiple times but finally started and would only run if I kept the RPM's up. I drove it another mile home and it stalled when I came to a stop again. While riding I noticed the volt meter up between 15-16, but had read they aren't always very accurate. I haven't checked the battery voltage at idle or revved to 2000 rpm's yet as it was late. Wondering if I might be able to get some insight at this point, just to possibly save me time and money. One note, I did installed LED lights around the entire bike, but I'm not sure if that would create an issue. Any help I could get would be greatly appreciated.
Cruiser
Joined: Apr 2025
Posts: 163
Likes: 85
From: Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
Also, as you noted the installed volt meter might not be accurate, but also it might be. You can get usable multi meters for pretty cheap these days. You can check your voltage at any point that gets battery voltage, the easiest place might be the cigarette lighter. This would be an easy test to confirm the accuracy of the installed meter.
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Is it possible to do a complete visual thru the inspection cover?
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From: San Diego, CA
First things first...
Always start with the easiest, least expensive thing(s)...
Check your battery cables...
Not just at the battery, but the ground to your negative and the terminal end of the positive cable too..
It would be a good idea to check all the grounds. Look for loose, or dirty connections. Also look for signs of the wire being broken inside the insulation.
A bad ground to any electrical module, or the bike itself could raise havoc....
Check the cables, connectors, and wires to your ignition switch... A dirty/loose, connection can also wreak havoc...
This is all free, and just takes some time...
FWIW... Softails are known for console ignition switch issues when that ignition switch gets dirty/corroded inside the contacts. They are also known for the battery negative cable connection to the frame, just forward of the battery and under the seat, coming loose and causing all sorts of electrical issues.
I have had both happen to me over the years. I spent a little time on the inspection, a little time on the issue I had found (disassembled & cleaned the contacts in the switch once, and cleaned, tightened the battery to frame neg battery connection twice), and I was back in business...
No cost other than my time..
I'm not saying it IS the issue with your bike, but it COULD BE the issue with your bike.. Free to check...
Always start with the easiest, least expensive thing(s)...
Check your battery cables...
Not just at the battery, but the ground to your negative and the terminal end of the positive cable too..
It would be a good idea to check all the grounds. Look for loose, or dirty connections. Also look for signs of the wire being broken inside the insulation.
A bad ground to any electrical module, or the bike itself could raise havoc....
Check the cables, connectors, and wires to your ignition switch... A dirty/loose, connection can also wreak havoc...
This is all free, and just takes some time...
FWIW... Softails are known for console ignition switch issues when that ignition switch gets dirty/corroded inside the contacts. They are also known for the battery negative cable connection to the frame, just forward of the battery and under the seat, coming loose and causing all sorts of electrical issues.
I have had both happen to me over the years. I spent a little time on the inspection, a little time on the issue I had found (disassembled & cleaned the contacts in the switch once, and cleaned, tightened the battery to frame neg battery connection twice), and I was back in business...
No cost other than my time..
I'm not saying it IS the issue with your bike, but it COULD BE the issue with your bike.. Free to check...
Last edited by hattitude; Jun 2, 2025 at 02:49 PM.
Thread Starter
|
Advanced
Joined: Feb 2025
Posts: 83
Likes: 27
First things first...
Always start with the easiest, least expensive thing(s)...
Check your battery cables...
Not just at the battery, but the ground to your negative and the terminal end of the positive cable too..
It would be a good idea to check all the grounds. Look for loose, or dirty connections. Also look for signs of the wire being broken inside the insulation.
A bad ground to any electrical module, or the bike itself could raise havoc....
Check the cables, connectors, and wires to your ignition switch... A dirty/loose, connection can also wreak havoc...
This is all free, and just takes some time...
FWIW... Softails are known for console ignition switch issues when that ignition switch gets dirty/corroded inside the contacts. They are also known for the battery negative cable connection to the frame, just forward of the battery and under the seat, coming loose and causing all sorts of electrical issues.
I have had both happen to me over the years. I spent a little time on the inspection, a little time on the issue I had found (disassembled & cleaned the contacts in the switch once, and cleaned, tightened the battery to frame neg battery connection twice), and I was back in business...
No cost other than my time..
I'm not saying it IS the issue with your bike, but it COULD BE the issue with your bike.. Free to check...
Always start with the easiest, least expensive thing(s)...
Check your battery cables...
Not just at the battery, but the ground to your negative and the terminal end of the positive cable too..
It would be a good idea to check all the grounds. Look for loose, or dirty connections. Also look for signs of the wire being broken inside the insulation.
A bad ground to any electrical module, or the bike itself could raise havoc....
Check the cables, connectors, and wires to your ignition switch... A dirty/loose, connection can also wreak havoc...
This is all free, and just takes some time...
FWIW... Softails are known for console ignition switch issues when that ignition switch gets dirty/corroded inside the contacts. They are also known for the battery negative cable connection to the frame, just forward of the battery and under the seat, coming loose and causing all sorts of electrical issues.
I have had both happen to me over the years. I spent a little time on the inspection, a little time on the issue I had found (disassembled & cleaned the contacts in the switch once, and cleaned, tightened the battery to frame neg battery connection twice), and I was back in business...
No cost other than my time..
I'm not saying it IS the issue with your bike, but it COULD BE the issue with your bike.. Free to check...
Last edited by dwhit6419; Jun 2, 2025 at 03:06 PM.