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I've been asking the same question for months. Perhaps we now have a common demonoinator. I've re-tuned 4 times w/ 2 tuners, the last has much more midrange. I Thought a simple 103 w/ se204's would do well in my trike. After trying 4 sets of (different levels of back pressure) mufflers, still lacking top end (in any gear), and still staying below 70 HP and 90 Ft. Lbs, I asked NIGHTRIDER.COM for help, as 2 shops "gave up". We can all learn from what was said, bearing in mind that a Dyno is all about throttle, w/ little relationship to the real world on ANY EFI engine, it's only a tool for showing what's wrong.
From: performance
Sent: Feb 13, 2011 4:11 PM
To: 'stoood'
SUBJECT: 08 FLH, SE 103 kit, SERT, V&H Duals w/ "BUB 7 Stealths", SE204's, Kury Intake
BODY { BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff; FONT-FAMILY: arial,sans-serif; COLOR: black; FONT-SIZE: 10pt}P { MARGIN: 0px}
Your current issue is a component problem and basic tuning issue. The V&H True Dual Headers are hurting your power. Historically these header pipes have just not been a good performance choice. I could not think of a worse choice if I had to. There is nothing inherently wrong with the BUB 7 mufflers.
There are also some obvious issues with the fuel/ignition maps downloaded by SERT into your ECM. I am not sure what gear you are talking about "no power above 4200", but if you are talking about 5/6 gear on the street, this is to be expected. Your Dyno sheet pretty much shows this with max HP reached by 4200 RPMs and torque dropping off dramatically.
Your engine power is about where I a stock engine should be. A 103 engine with the SE204 cam should be around 80HP range. I strongly suspect the choice of exhaust system is the power bottleneck, along with some major ECM tuning issues. Installing the LC-1's is not going to fix these basic issues. Stephen Mullen S&P Mullen Enterprises, Inc
I do hope I have not broken any rules quoting Mullen Enterprises (My apologies if so). I am very priviledged in my corresponding with them. As I am only 34 miles from the reference Dyno, and don't mind funding another run (the last one was on the house), I'll change pipes if I get some good input on other's experience with various duals. I can repost after the new run (all were 5th gear). Any constructive info on tuned pipes, or the V&H issue is welcomed (Duals are all that will fit on my trike). Stock pipes were suggested, which makes sense as they add low end torque (but I dislike the heat radiated by them). As a control, I'll try to get in the Dyno shoot-out that's held at J&P Cycle, just 9 miles away (I run the 113Hp/109Tq. Springer 103 that's in my Signature often). It may show the variance Dyno's inherently have. Thanks in advance, Stoood. Ps. Am I alone in simply hating the SERT? My TTS is much better
Have two real good friends that spent over 1000 putin true duals on their bike to have it not perform. And after dyno after dyno trip, both of them was told by performance people that the True Duals was causing their problems. It was killing their bottom end and overall power.
One still has the set of True Dual Reinheart laying in a shed.
The other dude trades his bike and got another one.
I've been asking the same question for months. Perhaps we now have a common demonoinator. I've re-tuned 4 times w/ 2 tuners, the last has much more midrange. I Thought a simple 103 w/ se204's would do well in my trike. After trying 4 sets of (different levels of back pressure) mufflers, still lacking top end (in any gear), and still staying below 70 HP and 90 Ft. Lbs, I asked NIGHTRIDER.COM for help, as 2 shops "gave up". We can all learn from what was said, bearing in mind that a Dyno is all about throttle, w/ little relationship to the real world on ANY EFI engine, it's only a tool for showing what's wrong.
From: performance
Sent: Feb 13, 2011 4:11 PM
To: 'stoood'
SUBJECT: 08 FLH, SE 103 kit, SERT, V&H Duals w/ "BUB 7 Stealths", SE204's, Kury Intake
BODY { BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff; FONT-FAMILY: arial,sans-serif; COLOR: black; FONT-SIZE: 10pt}P { MARGIN: 0px}
Your current issue is a component problem and basic tuning issue. The V&H True Dual Headers are hurting your power. Historically these header pipes have just not been a good performance choice. I could not think of a worse choice if I had to. There is nothing inherently wrong with the BUB 7 mufflers.
There are also some obvious issues with the fuel/ignition maps downloaded by SERT into your ECM. I am not sure what gear you are talking about "no power above 4200", but if you are talking about 5/6 gear on the street, this is to be expected. Your Dyno sheet pretty much shows this with max HP reached by 4200 RPMs and torque dropping off dramatically.
Your engine power is about where I a stock engine should be. A 103 engine with the SE204 cam should be around 80HP range. I strongly suspect the choice of exhaust system is the power bottleneck, along with some major ECM tuning issues. Installing the LC-1's is not going to fix these basic issues. Stephen Mullen S&P Mullen Enterprises, Inc
I do hope I have not broken any rules quoting Mullen Enterprises (My apologies if so). I am very priviledged in my corresponding with them. As I am only 34 miles from the reference Dyno, and don't mind funding another run (the last one was on the house), I'll change pipes if I get some good input on other's experience with various duals. I can repost after the new run (all were 5th gear). Any constructive info on tuned pipes, or the V&H issue is welcomed (Duals are all that will fit on my trike). Stock pipes were suggested, which makes sense as they add low end torque (but I dislike the heat radiated by them). As a control, I'll try to get in the Dyno shoot-out that's held at J&P Cycle, just 9 miles away (I run the 113Hp/109Tq. Springer 103 that's in my Signature often). It may show the variance Dyno's inherently have. Thanks in advance,
Stoood. Ps. Am I alone in simply hating the SERT? My TTS is much better
i'll agree that the true duals are the weak link in your build, they are holding you back but not killing it. I still say there's something in the tune. Do you know if they tuned your ignition tables at all? Or just the VE tables?
Dyno chart is from a 2009 Electra Glide Classic, has stock pipes (2-1-2 with no cat) and V&H Monster Oval slip-ons.
Dealer just installed the SE stage II kit: 103 pistons and jugs, 255 cams, SE air cleaner. Heads are still stock. He put in a PCV and dyno tuned.
Between 3000 and 4200 RPM the new torque curve stays over 100. Stock torque had been around 70 in this range.
I only have about 50 miles on this build so far and I'm trying to take it easy for break-in, but it's tough. It sounds different and may be louder. Only downside so far is that it seems to shake more at idle.
It feels strong and from what I've read in this thread I think these performance numbers are good, but I'd appreciate any comments from people more experienced in reading these dyno charts. Thanks.
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