Rear Stabilizers.....Requesting Input
ride-str8 takes or used to take a original harley transmission mount cover yours in exchange and welds a steel extension on to it and re power coats it. The TWR is machined from a one piece aluminum billet and power coated. the transmission mount is similar.
Last edited by cts1950; Aug 31, 2008 at 11:25 PM.
ride-str8 takes or used to take a original harley transmission mount cover yours in exchange and welds a steel extension on to it and re power coats it. The TWR is machined from a one piece aluminum billet and power coated. the transmission mount is similar. Both the ride str-8 and twr put their hime joint just ahead of the rear tire with a separation about 29" from the front mount the overall length of the axle of the swing arm to the front mount of the engine being 42". The true track and its variants put the hime joint at 22" behind the front mount with the overall at 42"
The equations for calculating force on the stabilizer components would work out as follows
42" - 29"= 13" lever arm and a .449 multiplier Ride Str-8 snd TWR
42" - 22"= 20' lever arm and a .909 multiplier true track Bagger Brace
The lever arm is the distance from the axle and the rear hime joint.
The greater distance between hime joints the lower the leverage will be. Think of 2 horizontal beams of 42" in length you have two bolts securing the beams the distance between bolts is 29" apart and over hung by 13"on one and on the other the bolts are 22" apart and a over hung distance of 20" now hang a 100 pound weight from the end of the over hung beam. The bolt toward the weight is pushed down and the other is pushed up.
If you input side loading of the swing arm of 100 pounds and apply the multiplier you will find the force put into the hime joints of each type of stabilizer.
100*.449= 44.9 pounds of force on each joint and related parts
100*.909= 90.9 pounds of force on each joint and related parts
I won't tell you which one to buy that is up to you you have been agonising over this decision for weeks now .
Agonizing maybe, but half the fun of making a new purchase is doing your homework.
In this case there are other more real issues at stake like safety. I want to make sure what I'm bolting on my ride will one enhance the performance and two make it safer NOT less safe. I'm sure you can appreciate that sentiment.
If you look at the TWR and the Ride str-8 they are similar in the way they mount. The
ride-str8 takes or used to take a original harley transmission mount cover yours in exchange and welds a steel extension on to it and re power coats it. The TWR is machined from a one piece aluminum billet and power coated. the transmission mount is similar. Both the ride str-8 and twr put their hime joint just ahead of the rear tire with a separation about 29" from the front mount the overall length of the axle of the swing arm to the front mount of the engine being 42". The true track and its variants put the hime joint at 22" behind the front mount with the overall at 42"
The equations for calculating force on the stabilizer components would work out as follows
42" - 29"= 13" lever arm and a .449 multiplier Ride Str-8 snd TWR
42" - 22"= 20' lever arm and a .909 multiplier true track Bagger Brace
The lever arm is the distance from the axle and the rear hime joint.
The greater distance between hime joints the lower the leverage will be. Think of 2 horizontal beams of 42" in length you have two bolts securing the beams the distance between bolts is 29" apart and over hung by 13"on one and on the other the bolts are 22" apart and a over hung distance of 20" now hang a 100 pound weight from the end of the over hung beam. The bolt toward the weight is pushed down and the other is pushed up.
If you input side loading of the swing arm of 100 pounds and apply the multiplier you will find the force put into the hime joints of each type of stabilizer.
100*.449= 44.9 pounds of force on each joint and related parts
100*.909= 90.9 pounds of force on each joint and related parts
I won't tell you which one to buy that is up to you you have been agonising over this decision for weeks now .
I drew out the diagram as you described it above. In theory it makes sense. However, if you believe that this is important then why wouldn't you then extend out further back the mount from the oil pan bracket and get more distance between the joints? That would make the force even less on the joints. Am I correct in how I understand your explanation?
Further, I would ask that if the joint and related parts are rated at let's say 500 pounds would it really make a difference whether one was getting 45 or 91 pounds exerted against it? The minimal difference would be negligible.
Lastly, I can't imagine that either mounting point, dog bone (cross member) or frame at swing-arm (all use the oil pan) would make the slightest impact on any parts it's mounted to. The force that we are talking about that is causing the slight occasional rear misalignment or wobble cannot be that great to begin with. If it was the bike's wouldn't be ridable. At most the force is very minor to cause the wobble in the first place.
That's probably why ALL of the stabilizers out there are bringing people positive results. The problem is minor to begin with so even if one design is possibly technically superior to another they are ALL adequate and up to the minimum required to do the job properly.
For your information in my past I have ridden a Ducati 999, Yamaha r1 and r6, a gsxr 750, a pro street chopper, dirt bikes and quads! I never claimed my Road King could ever compete with any of those bikes but I know for a fact I'm pushing this bike to its limits and probably harder than most....that's how I know the wobble is real and the stabilizer works!
I know these bikes are real comfortable going in a straight line on the super slab but if you ever get out and really push your bike into some good twisties you'll find the wobble eventually, and the first thing you'll need to buy is a rear stabilizer... Don't be scared it's OK to lean and accelerate

The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
Pray you nevr feel the wobble dude. It really doesn't matter how hard you ride your bike or how not hard you ride it . what it comes down to is conditions and if their right then it will happen. For me it was this simple little merging curve from one freeway to another left bank with a few dips where the road seams in the turn and when you hit this curve the dips times the curve times however the speed hits just right it happens... no challenge required it just does and when it does you too will look for a solution to make it never happen again... so in CONCLUSION if youve never felt it then count yourself LUCK but if you have then pretty much any one of the designs will work its just a matter of finding the one thats right for you..
I'm glad you've never felt the wobble, REALLY good for you.... but last time I checked this thread was for people that have experienced this myth, this phenomenon, this so called wobble that we're all wasting our money to correct by buying into this fad, this little thing called a "rear stabilizer". You know the thing that you don't have on your bike and have contributed no information about....I'm done with you now

Ride safe,
nastyHD
Last edited by nastyHD; Sep 2, 2008 at 01:19 AM.


