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I found that B&M quick shift in my Primary case worked rather well on my 02 Road King.. I work for a Peterbilt dealership in L.A. I recently tried Transynd in my 07 FLHX. I will tell you that it makes a pleasant difference.. Amsoil has a similar product; it hasn't been proven on a dyno.
My point to this is, a clutch on a Harley has the same characteristic as an automatic transmission (wet clutch). If you have the expendable cash, try Transynd..
Last edited by Roadkinganth; Nov 6, 2010 at 01:26 AM.
Ok I am new here and I have a question for you guys and gals, has any body used the ALLISON TRANS fluid in their primary yet? I am a diesel mechanic and have been around the allisons for a long time, when I switched them over to the Trans Synd they ran cooler and shifted better than ever.It is about $28.00 a gallon but I have plenty. Let me know what you think about it.
Diesel Mech also Im gonna give the Allison oil a try on my next primary change myself I have already changed the tranny out with Eaton Fuller 75/90 with no problems at all. I too have tons of this stuff in the garage.
I'm a firm believer in not skimping on oil quality, but the primary doesn't need a high-tech or expensive oil, and any cheap fossil engine oil or ATF will work fine. I had my primary apart at 32k for some tranny work, using Castrol GTX 20w50 for the duration, and there was no wear seen in the area. The clutch pack needs some friction to work properly, so slick synthetic oils with a high level of friction modifiers may actually be counterproductive, and the only other mission of the primary oil is to lube and cool the primary chain. You don't need a high-tech oil for any of that.
I used $1/qt. 10w40 generic engine oil from Wal-Mart in my old RK's primary and I had no problems. At 88k I replaced the stator and primary chain as a precaution, and installed new clutch disks while in there. The chain was showing a bit of slack, not much, but nothing else really needed to be replaced.
B&M Trick shift didn't work in my primary. As soon as I put it in, my clutch wouldn't fully release for 1 or 2 seconds. I went back to synthetic (Mobil1 10-50) and the problem disappeared immediately. I never understood why.
I'm using good ole Type-F in mine. Love the clutch action. The best part is that the clutch plates don't stick together at all when cold. Nobody believes it until they hear it, but I get absolutely zero clunk when shifting in to first in the morning. I'm not talking about pulling the lever, rolling backward, waiting 30 seconds, whatever.... Fire up the bike, squeeze the lever, shift to first, no clunk.
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