heat the cam support plate in an oven to 200 degrees and freeze the other parts overnight then you won't need a press to disassemble and reassemble. inner cam bearings can be removed using blind bearing puller from AZ and new frozen ones installed using and old cam as the driver. the oil pump will self align if you install the screws loosely and rotate the engine a couple of turns then torque the screws.

 

Thundermax w/auto tune

 

Yes on the freezer and oven, Ardy on this thread send me this link and it explains that exact procedure..looks like it works great.

http://www.harleyhog.co.uk/

 

A winter project for me too. Too many have mentioned they need to be upgraded. I am still trying to figure out what cams to go with. I will be watching and checking back.

 

yep. check that run out. Mine was .005 at 1000 miles so I went with the Andrews 37H cams instead of gear drive. Nice mid range cams and I don't have any problems hitting my rev limiter at 6300....

 

You can compare cam specs using the BigBoyz cam comparator:

http://www.bigboyzcycles.com/tccams.htm

This pic from the SE parts catalog shows what the open/close numbers mean:

http://

I have HQ-0034 cams in my 88; excellent bolt-in cam with many happy HDF'ers using it and its '07 and newer version, HQ 500.
Really woke-up my 88.

Good luck with your project.

 

Carl, so if I'm reading your chart right the exhaust valve duration is 260 and the intake is 252. So please school me. In comparing different cams what role does the duration play in HP/TQ gain? Or does it? Also what is Overlap...is more or less better?