Confused! Please HELP
First off let me say, this place is great!! About a month ago I bought my first HD, a FLHT and love it.
But, Im already looking to upgrade exhaust and A/C. I decided on the SE A/C and Rush slip-on mufflers.
Do I need to get e fuel managment device ie. PCIII or V&H fuel pak?
which is better?
and do i still need to have the dealer remap my ECU? or can I just do that without buying the fuel managment?
lastly------- what is SERT that I read in post?
sorry for all the questions but just what make the right chioce.
But, Im already looking to upgrade exhaust and A/C. I decided on the SE A/C and Rush slip-on mufflers.
Do I need to get e fuel managment device ie. PCIII or V&H fuel pak?
which is better?
and do i still need to have the dealer remap my ECU? or can I just do that without buying the fuel managment?
lastly------- what is SERT that I read in post?
sorry for all the questions but just what make the right chioce.
SERT is a SE Race Tuner. Better than a PCIII or a Fuel Pak but more expensive too. Either of those will work for you but you WILL want to add some fuel if you're doing pipes and A/C. Not sure about the dealer flash on newer bikes but you won't need it if you add a PCIII or FP.
I have read comments in American Iron about the '07 and '08 bikes not needing to be remapped. They say the computer is able to cope with the minor changes of A/C and exhaust. Their recommendation is to ride it; if it rides fine (no popping on decel) then it doesn't need a remap. If you have a crappy running bike, then you need to remap.
m.a.c.
m.a.c.
I have read comments in American Iron about the '07 and '08 bikes not needing to be remapped. They say the computer is able to cope with the minor changes of A/C and exhaust. Their recommendation is to ride it; if it rides fine (no popping on decel) then it doesn't need a remap. If you have a crappy running bike, then you need to remap.
m.a.c.
m.a.c.
Yup. And is American Iron magazine gonna pay for repair bill if it goes bad? Remember that when your reading "expert" opinions in magazines.
There wrong = YOU pay.
Potter,
If your gonna change the intake AND add pipes, YES, you need some sort of fuel management.
As for what is best, you might as well ask what bike is best. About a MILLION different opinions.
The best advice that I have to give, is to talk to the guys at your dealer, who will be doing the work, and ask what THEY recommend, and have the most experience with. As far as Im concerned, the SERT is your best option, IF your dealer is experienced with it. If they are not, you don't want it.
Sadley, its (most times) also the most expensive option.
Basic rundown of options:
1. Simple static download to remap the ECM. (stage 1 download) These are typically intended for when your using SE components, (intake, pipes) and are still EPA legal. They only compensate for your changes, they are not designed to optimize performance. Most dealers will not go this route if your using anything but Screamin Eagle pipes/intakes, as those are what the download is programed for. SOME dealers WILL do this with aftermarket pipes, feeling that the pipes themselves are "close enough" (as the free flowing intake is what your really compensating for) or that the slip-ons don't really make that much difference from one to the other. My dealer wont.
2. Auto-tuning fuel manager: These adjust automatically to your configuration using wide band 02 sensors. (Thundermax, etc. )
3. Limited adjustment aftermarket tuners (Vance and Hines Fuelpak, etc) These can be programed with "canned" maps specific to a given configuration. The problem is, what if you decided later to change to other components, and no map is available.
3. Aftermarket tuners that can be tuned with or without a dyno (Power Commander, etc) These are very popular, as you can either use "canned" maps that are available for a wide range of components, fine tune (somewhat) with buttons on the unit itself, or really dial it in with a dyno tune.
4. SERT "Screamin Eagle Race Tuner"(now called the Super tuner) can be dialed in VERY precisely, (front and rear cylinders can be tuned independently) but requires dyno time to do it. Is also permanently married to YOUR bikes ECM. (you cant move it to another bike) Its actually not hardware at all, just an interface dongle, and software thats used to reprogram your bikes stock ECM.
I hope that helps. But again, I REALLY recommend what your "support team" (dealer, indy mechanic) is most familiar with. While you will get lots of VALID opinions and advice on this forum, the thing to remember is that those guys wont be there (physically) to fix your bike if there's problems, and nothing sucks worse than a bike that ain't quite running right, and no-one around you can figure it out. There is only so much help people can be over the internet, sometimes you gotta be there in person.
Thats why I ponied up (twice) for the SERT. Its what MY dealer knows best, and what they can get the best tune out of. You only have to spend the money once, you have to live with the results every time you ride, or keep dicking with it until its right. (which typically ain't free of cost) Saving a few hundred bucks ain't worth a crappy running bike.
If your gonna change the intake AND add pipes, YES, you need some sort of fuel management.
As for what is best, you might as well ask what bike is best. About a MILLION different opinions.
The best advice that I have to give, is to talk to the guys at your dealer, who will be doing the work, and ask what THEY recommend, and have the most experience with. As far as Im concerned, the SERT is your best option, IF your dealer is experienced with it. If they are not, you don't want it.
Sadley, its (most times) also the most expensive option.
Basic rundown of options:
1. Simple static download to remap the ECM. (stage 1 download) These are typically intended for when your using SE components, (intake, pipes) and are still EPA legal. They only compensate for your changes, they are not designed to optimize performance. Most dealers will not go this route if your using anything but Screamin Eagle pipes/intakes, as those are what the download is programed for. SOME dealers WILL do this with aftermarket pipes, feeling that the pipes themselves are "close enough" (as the free flowing intake is what your really compensating for) or that the slip-ons don't really make that much difference from one to the other. My dealer wont.
2. Auto-tuning fuel manager: These adjust automatically to your configuration using wide band 02 sensors. (Thundermax, etc. )
3. Limited adjustment aftermarket tuners (Vance and Hines Fuelpak, etc) These can be programed with "canned" maps specific to a given configuration. The problem is, what if you decided later to change to other components, and no map is available.
3. Aftermarket tuners that can be tuned with or without a dyno (Power Commander, etc) These are very popular, as you can either use "canned" maps that are available for a wide range of components, fine tune (somewhat) with buttons on the unit itself, or really dial it in with a dyno tune.
4. SERT "Screamin Eagle Race Tuner"(now called the Super tuner) can be dialed in VERY precisely, (front and rear cylinders can be tuned independently) but requires dyno time to do it. Is also permanently married to YOUR bikes ECM. (you cant move it to another bike) Its actually not hardware at all, just an interface dongle, and software thats used to reprogram your bikes stock ECM.
I hope that helps. But again, I REALLY recommend what your "support team" (dealer, indy mechanic) is most familiar with. While you will get lots of VALID opinions and advice on this forum, the thing to remember is that those guys wont be there (physically) to fix your bike if there's problems, and nothing sucks worse than a bike that ain't quite running right, and no-one around you can figure it out. There is only so much help people can be over the internet, sometimes you gotta be there in person.
Thats why I ponied up (twice) for the SERT. Its what MY dealer knows best, and what they can get the best tune out of. You only have to spend the money once, you have to live with the results every time you ride, or keep dicking with it until its right. (which typically ain't free of cost) Saving a few hundred bucks ain't worth a crappy running bike.
Last edited by flyingace; Sep 13, 2008 at 04:12 PM.
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