On a ’04 Ultra, with 45,000 miles, running synthetic in all three holes. I only have about 2500 miles on this oil change.
I was running normally. I came up to a stop light, the bike came to an idle and my oil light came on (oh crap). I rev’ed up the engine and the pressure on the needle came up. Not to mid point, but up, and the light went out.
This morning I checked the oil cold, and it was correct. Started it up, pressure came right up, needle well over mid point. Rode to work (10 minutes, not over 45 mph), by the time I came to work, the oil pressure was way low, but the light did not come on. Pressure would still respond to the rev’ed engine.
Could this be a bad pressure sensor, a blocked return? Your collective insight is greatly appreciated.

 

Is your bike carbed or FI?

If your Idle was low and the oil was hot the light could come on. Usually not a problem, make sure your idle is up around 1000 rpm's.

 

I had the same symptoms on my '04 EG with 40K miles. Check the cam chain tensioners if you haven't already had them replaced. Mine were shot, replaced them with a new oil pump and everything has been normal over the past 10K miles.

 

Could also be a sticking bypass relief spring in the cam plate. I would check your cam tensioners anyway with that amount on your mileage so while you're in there you could pop out the roll pin and take out the spring and relief valve and sand the valve a little bit with fine sandpaper to assure it's not sticking. Can also replace spring with a Baisley LMR-02 spring for better pressure.

 

I had the same happen to me.
Called the local HD service dept and they told me it was normal.
They said it was due to the fact they use electronic sensors versus mechanical.
Seems to me that HD would use a better sensor.

 

Light comes on for low pressure. Don't think it's a pressure or pump problem since that would result in more heat and possibly the engine light coming on. I would check the sensor and connections for loose or semi-broken wiring.

 

Thanks all for the replies. I have some items to look into. I knew I could get some great advice here.

 

That certainly sounds like a gauge problem either with the return or the wiring.

 

Been doing quite a bit of research. I will be checking the cam tensioners this weekend. Called the dealer for the shop time to change these. 5 hours. Here in LV, that is $500 in labor alone.
They can K.M.A. Looks like another job I will learn to do.