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I stripped the screw on the firing that bholds the windshield on and then i got a new insert from the dealership,and while putting bit in it cracked the plastic, I gotit in further and tight now the fairing will not sit flush, damn,damn,damn, any ideas??? I was thinking about using some clear sealent to close the gap, any thoughts on that??
We need pictures! Don't start slopping sealant in there like its an old bathtub. Let us see it and I'm sure an idea will pop up. Show us what the gap looks like - then show us the messed up boss from a couple of angles.
I've had good results by inserting the tip of a soldering iron in the screw hole when hot and inserting it that way. It will soften the plastic and make it stick to the insert like glue. We use this technique on plastic acft parts. The trick is to get it just hot enough to insert and not hot enough to soften surrounding plastic. If it is cracked the melted plastic around the insert will heal the crack.
Start by putting 2 nuts on a longer bolt and screwing them into the threaded bushing. Then jam them against the end of the threaded bushing and remove it. Next, By taking your time you can screw the bushing back in later AFTER you get some JB WELD 4 minute setup. Mix up a small amount on a piece of cardboard and use a toothpick to insert it into the hole and around the broken area. I just helped repair one today for a friend. Be sure to use some anti-seze on the threads first.
Its best to run a tap into the holes prior to installing the threaded inserts! Helps stop the problem you encountered! You can also put a drop of liquid dish wash soap on the insert to lubricate it before you install it. the soap will dry up and will not cause any problems later. The inserts should be flush with the inner fairing. At worse they should not stick out past the windshield, if so you will not be able to draw the outer fairing up completely. Most important, DO NOT USE A SCREWDRIVER TO INSTALL INSERTS! The ears will break off.
I used to be a QA engineer in a plastics factory that used those inserts in computer cabinets. I have not seen the HD ones, but the Heli-Coil brass inserts we used had a knurled outer surface and were tapered. They were tapered because of the manufacturing process (injection molding) where everything had to have a draft in order to come out of the mold.
Now that being said we either used an untrasonic welder to heat the insert as it was pressed into the plastic, or we would heat the insert with a soldering iron and push it in the hole.
If you should FUBAR the hole for some reason and the HD factory insert won't hold, if you can get a close measurement of the holes diameter ( use a drill bit set and the smooth end of the drill to find one that will slip in snug) and you know the diamater and pitch of the hardware, the HeliCoil catalog will fix you up with one of about a dozen different insert options. http://www.helicoil.in/dodge.htm
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