TexasSG........Can I get a copy of ur instructions please?

ChampionClif@yahoo.com




Thanks

 

I'm getting ready to tackle my install. Does anyone know if I can re-use my Kuryakyn ISO Grips once removed, or am I going to have to get new ones? The dealership put them on when I bought it and I do not know if they are glued on or what......Any tips in salvage removal would be helpful!

 

There is really no telling what the dealer did. Unless maybe you ask them? My original was glued and with a lot of twisting strength it came off. Heating the grip and/or bars may help if it is glued? Bet a search might show that some other people have been through this.

 

email sent

 

Could I also have a copy please TexasSG? Thanks

wsalley2011@gmail.com

 

-sent

 

Well,,,,, I finally got my bike back together. I owe a big thanks to the search function on this forum for helping me complete the projects that I set forth while I was recovering from back surgery. I do have a few things I learned from doing, so I figured I’d stop just trolling and offer some tips as well – here goes.

-I have a 2010 streetglide and bought black lowers and bells to install on the forks when I bought it 2 years ago – good time to install those

-Probably ought to put in progressive monotubes while I’m at it

-Have the fairing off – might as well upgrade the speakers and add an amp – bought an MPAK-6

-Buddy just bought a roadking and he needed taller bars so I helped him look – wow – lovin’ those monkey bars – might as well add those to my bike also (12”)

-Can’t ride with bike torn down – time to send seat off to mean city cycles for some memory foam

See where I’m going with this? My wife did too

#1 – forks – no biggie, much easier than I thought – the split pvc tip for driving seals worked great

#2 – speakers and amp – plug and play – much louder –

#3 – running wires in bars was easier than anticipated – I used the Yaffe directions

I used conduit clamps to mount the bars to a piece of wood in a bench vice to hold them steady – much easier than having the bars move around while pulling the wires –

I started with electric fence wire – that was a pita – moved to braided string (used the vac method to pull through bars) – worked great – pulled wires in 30 min

One gotcha – the bars are welded tubing – there was a seam inside that kept the throttle by wire from sliding in – make sure it slides in freely before pulling wires – I had to use a burr on a drill to smooth out the seam

When reinstalling the molex connectors – put the white insert halfway in the connector – push the wires in one by one till they ‘click’ – the white insert will hold them straight till all the wires are in – then click it closed – easy

Easier to just remove the radio to reroute wires under – I tilted fairing forward – ended up removing radio later to fully tighten bars anyway

Before you take everything back apart when bike won’t start – ensure bike is in neutral – arrrrggghhh


Rick

 

How about some pictures. Thanks for sharing. Going to do the same one day...

 

Well I gave it all I had but I could not get the damn right side pulled through. I used the Yaffe method, and kept pulling the shrink wrap off the ends of the wires. I called the dealership and they said they would charge one hour for run the wires through the bars for me and double check all the wiring to ensure my solder joints are good. I'll gladly pay $78.00 to have it done. I have been trying to get the right side pulled through for two days now!! Tired of messing with it!

Does anyone know if I need to lubricate the stainless clutch cable? I've read lots of things on here and people say on the newer bikes you don't have to.

 

Can someone send me the instructions at jds761@hotmail.com thanks