Cam Project Final Write-Up
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Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,377
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From: Atlanta, GA
Yes, as Dave said the intake and exhaust pushrods are different lengths. It is not a bad idea to label the pushrods and put them back in exactly the same way the came out. In fact, in my humble opinion, anyone doing this project should invest in some zip lock bags and a black sharpie pen. Label everything and you won't have any "extra" parts left over.
Road Warrior
Joined: Feb 2010
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Thanks
Tourer
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 305
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From: Fairmont West Virginia
Thanks atrain68, i used your instructions along with my service manual to do my wood 555 cam install AND your instructions for the 107 big bore kit. My dyna now runs like a scolded dog. As for the cam sprocket spacer, i didnt need a new one, surprisingly my stock one worked perfectly, i checked it 10 times because i didnt believe it. Thanks again. 
Road Warrior
Joined: Feb 2010
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Thanks
Tourer
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 305
Likes: 1
From: Fairmont West Virginia
On the Cam Project Day 3 link at the begining of this thread , the last couple pictures atrain posted you can see how to use a straight edge to determine the gap, if any. This is also the way my service manual explained how to do it. I'm far from a expert mechanic so i studied this thread along with my manual before and during my build. Hope this helps.
Road Warrior
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,534
Likes: 10
On the Cam Project Day 3 link at the begining of this thread , the last couple pictures atrain posted you can see how to use a straight edge to determine the gap, if any. This is also the way my service manual explained how to do it. I'm far from a expert mechanic so i studied this thread along with my manual before and during my build. Hope this helps.
Yes, I've seen the pics and read the entire thread. I'm still a little confused as how to select the correct spacer, which is why I posted my question.
Thanks anyway.
Just finished my cam change tonight too
Took me forever between my brain tumor surgery and my dad passing I did not get to dedicate a lot of time. Just fired it up tonight for first time with new SE204 cams. WOWeeee, now can't wait to get PCIII installed and run her. Thanks for your great collection of info as it helped me along the way as well. Modified some of the steps due to my time constraints but definatly a good read for anyone with theTC motor. Hammer down boys!
Stellar HDF Member
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From: Southern Nevada (Pahrump)
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WoW, very extensive write up!!! I neeeeeeeed it. I'm about to do the same, but stilll wavering on indy install. I will reread.
Thanks again for thr great post!!!
Thanks again for thr great post!!!
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Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,377
Likes: 8
From: Atlanta, GA
Choosing the correct spacer
Select the .010 feeler and slide it under the straight edge as positioned in my pictures. If the feeler gauge fills the entire gap between the straight edge then you need a spacer that is .010 thicker. If there is a gap, then you use the .020 feeler. Keep measuring until there is no gap. The feeler should have just a little bit of friction when you slide it under the straight edge so know you have contact between the sprocket and straight edge.
Look at your original spacer. It should have the spacer thickness stamped on it. Based on your measurements the additional thickness is what you need to add. For example, if you have a .110 original spacer and you had a .010 gap, then you add the two numbers. You need a .120 spacer. In the event you can't read the spacer size, bring the original to the dealer with you. The service department can measure the spacer thickness with a micrometer.
Last edited by atrain68; Apr 23, 2011 at 09:57 AM.